Kraton Kraton exposed spur gear

[SrC]

Didn’t you have voltage cut? Did your lipos worked well? My experience on snow was frustrating, could bash only 5 min than went in voltage cut?maybe my lipos on snow are poopy?

Fully charged lipos go flat fast in very cold ambients. Try to keep the lipos warm just until you go outside to run. That will give you a head start and gain some more run time. But after about 5-10 min freezing temps will set in and the lipo goes flat fast. Once they warm up they are normal again. This is normal for most any kind of batteries. They have operating temp limits. When Crawling yesterday in the snow storm, one of them hit LVC early. When I got home and the pack warmed up, it had 3.89V per cell and was pretty balanced at that. (2S, 52000mah gens-ace-r-spam) I believe Exocaged RC (not 100% sure it was he) did a test on Fully charged lipo temps from 120F (heated in an oven) to freezer temps. The lipos actually performed best super hot over 120F. That's why Racers discharge very low and charge at very high rates. To get them very warm for a race. The punch and amp delivery is high.

 

[DoNoHarm]

Fully charged lipos go flat fast in very cold ambients. Try to keep the lipos warm just until you go outside to run. That will give you a head start and gain some more run time. But after about 5-10 min freezing temps will set in and the lipo goes flat fast. Once they warm up they are normal again. This is normal for most any kind of batteries. They have operating temp limits. When Crawling yesterday in the snow storm, One of them hit LVC early. When I got home and the pack warmed up, it had 3.89V per cell and was pretty balanced at that. (2S, 52000mah gens-ace-r-spam) I believe Exocaged RC (not 100% sure it was he) did a test on Fully charged lipo temps from 120F (heated in an oven) to freezer temps. The lipos actually performed best super hot over 120F. That's why Racers disscharge very low and charge at very high rates. To get them very warm for a race. The punch and amp delivery is high.

Yes, it was exo. A great video series!

 

[JJAX]

See I thought the cut out was because most 1/8th scale used to be gassers/nitro and it was open so they could use a jump box to start there engines? But the cut out for debris makes sense also.

 

[SrC]

See I thought the cut out was because most 1/8th scale used to be gassers/nitro and it was open so they could use a jump box to start there engines? But the cut out for debris makes sense also.

I follow your logic to some extent. My AE nitro 10T's are bump starters ( Non- pull engines). But Arrma never made nitro rigs from their chassis. Their 1/8 chassis design was Electric specific. The flywheel on a bump started nitro needs to be accessed through the chassis. I agree.
If you look closely at a 1/8 Arrma chassis, the center diff's drive line/cups/driveshafts sit 10mm higher than the F/R input cups. In a perfect world, that center diff should be 10mm lower for a straight drive line of the driveshafts. Also consider the CFG should be as low as possible. To accommodate the lowest possible center diff, a relief in the chassis is made. There is a cut out. The spur gear's diameter ultimately determines where it will sit at the chassis. The cutout does afford debris egress as much as it affords ingress of same.
Try closing off that relief on the chassis with a piece of lexan and gorilla tape and see if debris becomes a problem with the spur gear. I believe it will. Debris will enter the chassis above and collect at the spur and has no where to go as that spur spools up. Debris entering from the bottom of the slotted chassis can pass through from above or below the chassis' slotted relief. You can't avoid debris running in dirt. It is inevitable. There will always be debris in contact with the spur gear. I feel the slotted chassis works best. Just my observation.
The K8S has a great design that eliminates this problem with an overhead spur and gear reduction at the center diff.