Kraton Kraton getting rebuilt....Suggestions welcome.

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Kraton Kraton getting rebuilt....Suggestions welcome.

dpricenator

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OK, so here it what I have going on. I burnt the stock servos the day after Christmas. Since I have to do the Servo, why not get a GKA Mount? Ordered, a Savox 1210SG water proof servo, GKA mount, and 3 servo horns, because I wasn't sure what would fit. I had wanted to shim the diffs and swap the fluid out, but wasn't really ready to spend the time fixing something that wasn't broken. Then I win a set of Fast Eddie bearings (thank you Arrma Forum). So now to get to the bearings I have to get inside the differentials anyway. And another order is made. 2 sets of the mugen diff shims, and some diff fluid that is most likely WAY too thick. I am going to try 80K in the front, 500k in the middle and 100k in the rear. Along the way I picked up some thicker sway bars, Hot Racing Chassis Braces, New out drive cups, a Hot Racing metal bell crank, Hot racing center diff carrier, Stock motor mount to cut down for a center diff mount, and a voltage hobbies steering rack. I also picked up a set of the stocks screws on ebay. I figured I might strip a few getting them out, but I found some rusty ones in there. I guess I need to do a better job of drying and lubing the car when I wash it. And the red aluminum wing mount button looking things. As spares I also have set of dog bones.

Last night I got the green light to spend a few hours wrenching the Kraton. Heading for the front diff first. Since I hadn't taken anything apart yet, I really had no idea what to expect. Started on one hub, and completely removed the whole assembly, trying to get to the differential. Realized there are bearings to replace in the hub....duh...wasn't thinking bearings, only diff at the time. So I swapped the bearings on both of the front hubs. And set them aside.

Now onto the differential. I have no idea on how to get to this, but I thought I could just pull the front plate off and get to it. But it seemed like there was more to remove than I thought. So what the heck, both the top and bottom Arms off the car, sway bar off the car, front shock tower off the car. Damn, this is looking like one heck of a puzzle to put back together. Finally get the entire bulkhead off the car, and still can't get to the differential. A little elbow grease and a screwdriver used as a mini crowbar, and the front of the diff comes off. I guess that will be easier next time.

I first worked on getting the bearing in the front spur gear swapped out and then moved on to the shims.

I pull out the Kindle and queue up Thomas P's bullet proof diff video on you tube and get busy. Really not as hard as I expected. I laid everything out just like he has on his towel, and followed him set by step.

By now it's been a few hours and the wife is getting a little bit antsy. "see Dave, this is why I don't like this. You can't just do a couple hours, it's gotta be all night, or nothing." I am trying to explain that I can't just stop working with a dis-assembled differential. She doesn't get it, oh well. it's been 17 years, she's not leaving over an RC Car. I really wish I had a power driver, because my driver handle is small and it seems like those screws are a mile long after while.

I wanted to get it to a stopping point, where I knew I could remember or easily figure out how to get the rest of the front end back together. So I got the bulkhead back in, and secured it with the 2 screws, through the chassis.

I still have to replace the shock tower, upper and lower arms, and the shocks, but I am super proud of myself to sat the least. All the bearings up front are swapped out, the diff is shimmed, diff fluid swapped for 80K, and is half way back together.

I think tonight I am going to be able to get the Front Arms back on, and may just do the front Chassis brace, even though it may have to come off when I go to do the steering mods. Only a couple screws so no big deal.

I will have to do the rear end before I do the center diff, since my New Center diff carrier is being shipped right now. So maybe I can get the rear end taken down tonight too, or maybe I'll just cut that motor mount down so I don't leave the car in too many pieces tonight. Either way I am at least 3 hours last night, and look to have another 7 or eight hours to go.
She my not leave, but I'm going to hear it when it takes me another 3 session of 2.5 hours each. Guess her birthday should be a little extra special this year.
 

Stanleybb50

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I got 12 years of dating and 8+ years or marriage and it sounds about par for the course over here too.... Lol. 2 kids doesn't help matters either...

Sounds awesome and good job!
 

dpricenator

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NICE! 3 kids here, Girl, 13, likes to take her attitude for a test drive, Boy, 12, Autistic, love this dude, but he's a handful, boy, 5, going to be an absolute beast. He's off the carts on Height and weight. The new Dr thought, for sure, that we were mistaken about the year he was born. He said he called the hospital to make sure. In his mind there was no way a kid this big was only 5 years old. So getting time for this type of rebuild/repair is tough to come by. Baseball season is starting soon, and I am the coach for his team and the asst coach for my daughter's softball team. Gotta find time to surf and fish too. Pretty sure I need to retire.
 

VME

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How do you like the 1210SG?

I stripped the gears in my stock servo the other night after putting the GKA brace on. I went ahead and ordered a 1210SG and glitch buster, in case I need it.
 
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dpricenator

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How do you like the 1210SG?

I stripped the gears in my stock servo the other night after putting the GKA brace on. I went ahead and ordered a 1210SG and glitch buster, in case I need it.

It is still in the box. I am probably 6 hours of work before I can get to installing that. I still have the rear and center differentials and Bearings to do.
 

VME

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It is still in the box. I am probably 6 hours of work before I can get to installing that. I still have the rear and center differentials and Bearings to do.

I feel your pain, I went through that about 2 weeks ago.

Power tools are a must, my hands never cramped so bad afterwards
 

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I'll probably have to stob by the Depot on the way home and grab a power tool of some kind for this.
 

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Now onto the differential. I have no idea on how to get to this, but I thought I could just pull the front plate off and get to it. But it seemed like there was more to remove than I thought. So what the heck, both the top and bottom Arms off the car, sway bar off the car, front shock tower off the car. Damn, this is looking like one heck of a puzzle to put back together. Finally get the entire bulkhead off the car, and still can't get to the differential. A little elbow grease and a screwdriver used as a mini crowbar, and the front of the diff comes off. I guess that will be easier next time.
You should be able to get the diff in your hand in about 5 minutes.
To get into the front diff -

1 - Loose the grub screw in the lower arm that secures the lower shock pin - pull the pin, free the lower end of the shocks from the lower arm, and flip them up out of the way.. (2 screws loose)
2 - Loose the 2 grub screws holding the sway bar to the front arms, don't need to pull the sway bar out yet. (2 more screws loose)
3 - remove the 4 angled screws on front of the diff housing. (4 screws removed)
4 - hook two fingers over the swaybar (one on each side of the gearbox) and gently pull forward and up - the same angle as the screws. Front of the gearbox pops off.
5 - grab the diff, and pull it out.

Diff is now in your hand, only touched 8 screws, and 4 of those are still in the truck. And I have done this without messing with the shocks, but getting the diff back in is a PITA. Rear diff is the same.
 

Stanleybb50

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NICE! 3 kids here, Girl, 13, likes to take her attitude for a test drive, Boy, 12, Autistic, love this dude, but he's a handful, boy, 5, going to be an absolute beast. He's off the carts on Height and weight. The new Dr thought, for sure, that we were mistaken about the year he was born. He said he called the hospital to make sure. In his mind there was no way a kid this big was only 5 years old. So getting time for this type of rebuild/repair is tough to come by. Baseball season is starting soon, and I am the coach for his team and the asst coach for my daughter's softball team. Gotta find time to surf and fish too. Pretty sure I need to retire.

4 year old girl who is an absolute handful... Argues on everything and is smart and frankly I think can't ever turn her brain off - hence hard to get her to sleep every night, but I live her to death.

And a 7 month old that is honestly an angel so far. That could change in an instant, but she's been wonderful!

They definitely keep us busy... Very tired and busy... Lol.

On another note - baseball was my sport!

And on another note again, I was 11 lbs 2oz 24" long at birth... I'm 6'7" 230 now and believe I was off every chart growing up... Haha. But mostly for height I guess. I was pretty skinny growing up around the age of 5 I think.

You should be able to get the diff in your hand in about 5 minutes.
To get into the front diff -

1 - Loose the grub screw in the lower arm that secures the lower shock pin - pull the pin, free the lower end of the shocks from the lower arm, and flip them up out of the way.. (2 screws loose)
2 - Loose the 2 grub screws holding the sway bar to the front arms, don't need to pull the sway bar out yet. (2 more screws loose)
3 - remove the 4 angled screws on front of the diff housing. (4 screws removed)
4 - hook two fingers over the swaybar (one on each side of the gearbox) and gently pull forward and up - the same angle as the screws. Front of the gearbox pops off.
5 - grab the diff, and pull it out.

Diff is now in your hand, only touched 8 screws, and 4 of those are still in the truck. And I have done this without messing with the shocks, but getting the diff back in is a PITA. Rear diff is the same.

^ ^ ^ This! I just didn't know enough to articulate it and/or too lazy... Haha.
 

dpricenator

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You should be able to get the diff in your hand in about 5 minutes.
To get into the front diff -

1 - Loose the grub screw in the lower arm that secures the lower shock pin - pull the pin, free the lower end of the shocks from the lower arm, and flip them up out of the way.. (2 screws loose)
2 - Loose the 2 grub screws holding the sway bar to the front arms, don't need to pull the sway bar out yet. (2 more screws loose)
3 - remove the 4 angled screws on front of the diff housing. (4 screws removed)
4 - hook two fingers over the swaybar (one on each side of the gearbox) and gently pull forward and up - the same angle as the screws. Front of the gearbox pops off.
5 - grab the diff, and pull it out.

Diff is now in your hand, only touched 8 screws, and 4 of those are still in the truck. And I have done this without messing with the shocks, but getting the diff back in is a PITA. Rear diff is the same.


Thank you, I am going to use this next time I have to go in there. That will probably be when I realize my diff fluid is to thick. As of right now, I still have to get to the bearings on the other side of the differential. I am not sure I can get that done with the bulkhead in the car. But since you did this only touching a handful of screws, I sure am going to try.
 

Stanleybb50

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You should be able to get the diff in your hand in about 5 minutes.
To get into the front diff -

1 - Loose the grub screw in the lower arm that secures the lower shock pin - pull the pin, free the lower end of the shocks from the lower arm, and flip them up out of the way.. (2 screws loose)
2 - Loose the 2 grub screws holding the sway bar to the front arms, don't need to pull the sway bar out yet. (2 more screws loose)
3 - remove the 4 angled screws on front of the diff housing. (4 screws removed)
4 - hook two fingers over the swaybar (one on each side of the gearbox) and gently pull forward and up - the same angle as the screws. Front of the gearbox pops off.
5 - grab the diff, and pull it out.

Diff is now in your hand, only touched 8 screws, and 4 of those are still in the truck. And I have done this without messing with the shocks, but getting the diff back in is a PITA. Rear diff is the same.
After reading in detail, this is awesome and even shorter than I realized. :)
 

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I have 17 years of marriage and almost got a divorce this year. What I have learned.... chicks don't like when you are enjoying time to yourself in the man cave.

I set my one boy up with his own cave also.... we have built all sorts of cool stuff already.

I think she realized it's good to spend lots of time with your sons. But we had to spend 80 bucks on flowers for her birthday today. I'll be doing more of that for her... just like when we first met.
 

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Yeah, I'm thinking some flowers today would be a nice surprise.

I tried to get an hour or so in last night, just to get the front end put back together. NOPE

Ended up with 15 minutes to cut the motor mount into a diff mount. And I was able to organize a tackle box tray into an Kraton Upgrade Box. Not I have all my parts, screws, gaskets, O-rings, etc in one secure location.

Stay tuned, I think I'm going to be able to make my car at least half a Bad A$$ as Vanning's and Kauaiguy's
 

Vanning

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Lol.... I'm going to use your tackle box idea. I got rc parts galore laying around. My chargers need better homes also.
I don't have much work to my Kraton chassis. It's only electronics and a different body. Then a few fine adjustments here and there. The chassis is damn near stock other than an aluminum rod for a brace, aluminum servo mount, rpm wing mount and the center diff mod we all did. Soon Arrma will release a Kraton roller called the Kraton Ultimate.... just add your electronics, tires, body. :D That will come out right after I get mine the way I like it.
 
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Jerry-rigged

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Those snap-lid tackle trays are great. When you are taking stuff apart, put screws and small parts from each step in a separate compartment. If you gotta stop work, close the lid, no lost / mixed up parts.
 

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I'm rebuilding a Kraton chassis that I bought used (and very abused). It has taken quite a few hours and parts orders, but the end is in sight. I feel your pain trying to find the time with complaining wife and a 9 month old. Sometimes I let her fall asleep at 11pm and sneak to work on cars for a couple hours. Lol.

I found the stock bearings were junk, so I bought the Fast Eddie kit. The diffs all looked like black sludge inside, I'm going 50k-100k-50k to start. Waiting on the diff pins and gaskets to finish.

If I like the Kraton enough, then I'm selling off the heavy Nero and I'll go wild with HR pieces on Kraton.

Electronics are the weakness of stock Kraton. I'm doing the aluminum standoff mod for the servo mount with a Savox servo, and installing Mamba Monster X with 2200kv Mamba motor. Finishing off with the Backflip tires from Outcast. I think it will be a beast, just hope it holds up to punishment like people say.
 

Vanning

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That black sludge isn't too bad. That's mostly just the gear breaking in. Theyseem to look like that even after very limited use. More gray than black.
 

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OK, so I was able to get the rear diff shimmed and all the rear diff and rear hub bearings swapped out. I did not reinstall the rear end, as I still have to do the center differential. I did make a mistake when I did the front end. I used 80K fluid, when I meant to use 100k. I was supposed to use the 80k on the rear and the thicker upfront, so I would not loose as much power thru the wildly spinning front wheels. So then we went up to OCRC which is an indoor clay race track about 30 minutes from home. We were just going to watch, but I figured I would just buy some 50k when I was up there. NOPE forgot... So I decided to dilute the 80K or 80,000CST with some 35w shock fluid, which is 425cst. Both are Team Ass and are silicone blends and both made by Lucas Oil. So sine the 425cst is almost 0 compared to 80,000cst I figured a 50/50 solution would give me roughly 40K, which is less than the front and still plenty heavier than the stock fluid. So I was able to keep working on it, and got it done. I went to put the heavier Antiroll bar in the back, and realized I could not find that little black plate that holds the anti roll bar place. Looked every where. Had to order the whole gearbox case this morning in order to get the little piece I need. $10 and a week is all it cost, and I doubt the week is even a cost considering the center diff and steering rack, bell crank, and servo work I still have to do.

By the way, how long does the shipping from GKA take? It's been 21 days since Canada Post accepted the order. Luckily I can wait for the servo mount because it is the last thing in line on the steering/servo upgrades. Either way I hate not being able to track the shipment once we get it in the US.
 

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WOOT WOOT!!!! Mail just came. I now have the Voltage Hobbies Steering rack, Hot Racing Center Diff carrier, Hot Racing Steel bell crank, and 4 of those cheap tires we all jumped on in the last month or so. Tires will go on the shelf, for now, and I guess I start work on the center diff, while I wait for my Servo Mount, and the little piece I lost from the gear box.
 
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