Kraton Kraton maintenance advice

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douganddoug

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Location
FL
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Typhon 3s
Hi all -

New to RC. Have Kraton 6S for about 2 months now.

Arrma manual says to perform maintenance on all diff’s after 20 battery recharges.

Asked the guys at my local hobby shop if necessary and they said no. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. And when it does break, swap out w/ higher quality diff’s.

Car is running fine, maybe a little louder than when it first ran right out the box but seems ok. Have gone way beyond 20 charges.

Curious of others thoughts on doing recommended maintenance, waiting for it to break or something else.

Thanks in advance
 
Bro.. do yourself a favor and bust her open, its a pretty simple job honestly!! I stressed way too much thinking on it.. and it was relatively easy!! 10:1 says all three are low and dirty anyway, gives u a chance to learn about your rig!! YT is my buddy!!🤣💯
Look how low my new EXB was!!

20211206_212305.jpg
 
It's really not necessary for the diffs. Don't follow that thing. You should definitely be checking/regluing tires every run. Don't upgrade anything if it isn't broken.
Will do on tires, thx so much.
 
I’d have opened the diffs when it was new. At this point I’d definitely open them up, change out what little fluid is in there, and then check the gear mesh and shim as needed. It’s likely louder due to incorrect or slightly off gear mesh. Just be sure to watch videos on how to do it.

As far as the guy saying to leave it be.. that’s a good way to strip the diff gears. And upgrade whatever you want. These cars have known weak points that can be addressed ahead of time instead of after it’s broken and you’ve got to wait on the upgrade part because the hobby shop likely only carries stock parts.
 
Honestly I ran my limitless for almost a year, beating on it hard that’s my basher for in road, I even had the esc catch fire that’s how hard I was running it, bashing with tall gearing. I just did maintenance the other day all gears inside the diff case good as well as the outside gears good shape, fluid was dark which is expected but it could of ran a whole year !
 
Honestly I ran my limitless for almost a year, beating on it hard that’s my basher for in road, I even had the esc catch fire that’s how hard I was running it, bashing with tall gearing. I just did maintenance the other day all gears inside the diff case good as well as the outside gears good shape, fluid was dark which is expected but it could of ran a whole year !
Limitless is different though. I’ve never opened the diffs on mine either. It doesn’t take the pounding that jumping an RC inflicts. Plus the center diff is non-existent with the spool.
 
Diffs you need to absolutely do about every 20 packs. Once you open them, you will understand why.
Check bearings after 10 packs or whenever you have gotten the rig wet. They will freeze up after a couple of days if water gets in.

You might want to swap LHS, they seem clueless. Yes, if it ain't broken don't fix it, but you have to do maintenance. That is 30% of the hobby. If you do it right, you combine it with the other 60% which is breaking stuff. Leaves 10% of runtime ;)
 
Bro.. do yourself a favor and bust her open, its a pretty simple job honestly!! I stressed way too much thinking on it.. and it was relatively easy!! 10:1 says all three are low and dirty anyway, gives u a chance to learn about your rig!! YT is my buddy!!🤣💯
Look how low my new EXB was!!

View attachment 198014
^^^
Yeah they are always low. But you won the prize there for sure.:LOL:

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20 runs, its now time to look them over one by one. Use fresh oil, 60k fron,t 500k center, 30 k rear for standard Open diffs. Start with the center, slightly easier for some people. Maintain the diffs or replace expensive gears sets needlessly. Start wrenching. You had some good fun with your rig, time to dig in. If you choose not to, fine also. But at some point you will need to. Learn now. And spare your diffs, get more life out of them. You got about 5 hours of run time on them. That is a lot.
Why would any LHS say otherwise. Did they write the Arrma manual or something we don't know.
 
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When I opened mine to change the oil , I discovered a couple of broken pins and a loose bearing . No damage done , but I'm sure if I kept running it something would have broken. I've also discovered broken screws a bent axle and driveshaft. The maintenance isn't hard and makes for a good rainy day project.
 
When I opened mine to change the oil , I discovered a couple of broken pins and a loose bearing . No damage done , but I'm sure if I kept running it something would have broken. I've also discovered broken screws a bent axle and driveshaft. The maintenance isn't hard and makes for a good rainy day project.
Yup! This is another good reason. I’ve found my diff screws loosened by several threads as well.
It also gives you the chance to swap the front and rear diff grease on the outside with something that sticks to the gears better and doesn’t sling off to the diff case walls. I use Vanquish.
 
Those diff carrier screws rarely loosen. The factory assembly is just always very poor. Never tightened enough!!
If you don't check them out the box, you will lose what little diff oil is in there to begin with.
Factory underfills them most of the time, and with very thin DIff oil. Adding even more insult to injury.:rolleyes:
Every single time, all of my 6s rigs were low, every single diff. Many screws are either Stripped or Loose. Out the box. Give them all a once over, first thing.
The Sun gear Pins are always a weak link. Then they can split the Sun gear, if not caught in time.. Otherwise you end up with a completely $bricked$ diff.
I found that cutting appropriate size diameter HS Drill bit Blanks for Sun Gear Cross Pins is much stronger.
Preventive maintenance goes a long way here.:)

Vanquish Grease is just ok IMHO. Have that here also. Was using it with my Crawler Transmissions (all VP upgraded gears)
But I find than any Automotive NLGI Grade Synthetic Grease on the Main gears is best, for fast Basher rigs. Much better suited for faster Heavy loads. Best shear strength and temperature properties.
And is way cheaper per oz.(y)

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