Kraton Kraton metal upgrades?

[Vanning]

* Baja 5B differntial, FACTORY SHIMMING! Have broken rear upper arms, turnbuckles from jumping, bent shocks, diffs, still new. I have a Turtle Racing billet diff case and have not installed as there is no need for it.

* King Motor X2, AKA "Losi 5ive clone" FACTORY SHIMMING! 30.5CC ported engine with aftermarket pipe, all diffs good, no failures.

* Blackout Pro, FACTORY SHIMMING!
Have maxed out the ESC on 3S, no filures.

* .26 ported v2 engine, dual chamber pipe, 20% nitro, 5 years with the same diffs, FACTORY SHIMMING!

* GReedy .21 ported dual chamber pipe, aluminum clutch shoes, 20% nitro, FACTORY SHIMMING!

* ARRMA Talion, diff gears after more than 20 battery packs, 5S and 6S, FACTORY SHIMMING!

The gearboxes on all the AEGs have been shimmed, minus the tan one, which runs flawlessly like it is (extremely butterly smooth and accurate). In airsoft, its a must as QC is very bad from factory.

***

All the above applications are with factory spec shims.

SHIMMING IS NOT NEEDED! ITS HYPE FORUM TALK!

You may not need it in your applications. Only apply them if you feel it will help. Here is why I did on the Kraton. I'll repost this picture. Let's not get off topic into other applications. I posted the part # for you on the wrong post. Here it is TD310475. Not all RC's require the same attention. Each one has its ups and downs. If something isn't needed.... it simply just isn't nessasary until you find out that it is. I totally understand your point of view. Been there also. I decided to add the shims on my Kraton even though I know others do not. A few 1/8 race kits I've had come with them for some strange reason. I got RC's I've never did anything with also. My Kraton felt sloppy compared to higher end stuff.... so I fixed it. Shoot me for it !!! I'm guilty. And... I redid one recently that was getting sloppy... guess what !!!! I needed shims. It's what they are for. I see what you are saying and you are only 1/2 correct. It's not Hype... some stuff needs attention.

 

[crankestein]

Of course it only applies when needed.

You bring up your profile with 30 years of bla bla bla, and only thin you show is one picture of a pin and a diff housing.

I have demonstrated rig after rig, from 1/5th to 1/10th, which I also have 1/12th, 1/16th, Feiyue and one of those cheap WLToys, and NONE, I say NONE I had to re-shim. And my statements are very different from yours. I did not say, NO RC needs shimming, I said from my experience.

My boat is sinking... and you are not defensive, lol.

You did it because you like tinkering with it, all the "I do this to every RC that I got to make them bulletproof" is pointless.
And so much for years of experience, etc, What is the Durango part number?
Still waiting for the answer, and you don't know the specs, working on RC blindfolded. I know the answer for the factory ARRMA shims, and the one step above, and just because this forum is so wow into the shim deal, I went ahead and did the so call UPGRADE to make my ARRMA finally bullet proof, LOL.

 

[Vanning]

You did the upgrade because you know it's a good one and most 1/8th kits include that shim in the kit. I let you know that with as little effort as possible. I showed you one picture of a Kraton diff that was worn out. I never got off topic with other rigs. This is a Kraton section last time I remember. From a mechanical point of view and in my opinion. I rather have the large shim in place. My opinion would mean nothing if I told you I was new to all this. Do you need some off topic pictures.... I can give you plenty of pics and vids of shimmed diffs from people way more qualified than the entire forum put together. But there is no need when it's all a matter of preference. To me....it makes more sense to have something between the gear and case. I provided one reason why. Yes I've owned a insane amount of RC's and been at it 30 plus years. I've come up with my opinion in that time. Plus I showed you why. If you don't agree.... that's cool. Not a big deal. I also agree with your opinion but for a Kraton..... I prefer mine. If you showed me a picture and reason why to shim a Kraton diff, I would take it into consideration. Especially from someone that's been building stuff for many years. Don't get me wrong... I also agree that it's not needed sometimes but lots of things are not needed. It's just one thing I like to see in a diff than not to see. It seems stupid not to. Any way to shave some money off a ready to run will be looked at.

 

[crankestein]

I did the upgrade ONLY on ONE diff, to compare to the other ones, and prove to you its pointless.
Its tinkering, its NOT an upgrade. Members mention it on this forum as if its the next big hit on must do's, and everyone is following like a domino effect and nobody stops to ask or think about it.

You did it blind folded, clueless, WHATS THE PART NUMBER? You made that up, dig your own hole and make some drama excuse to sugar coat it.

Already posted pictures of the diff gears, they are brand new after more than 20 packs on 5S and 6S hard bash runs, tumbles on STOCK shims.

30 years of experience and a mechanical some paper degree, or online course, but cant tell us what are the shimming specs. What about ALL the other diffs you have done, What shimming did you do?

I don't care what you do or not, BUT don't come into the forums stating things as if they are the facts, and so on because it is not true. You create panic by stating such UPGRADE, when in fact you just did it because you have done it for 30 years, wrenching in auto mode without thinking. I also showed you that I have NEVER shimmed anything outside the factory specs, and never have had any problems. No need to fix what is not broken. Make it clear to the younger crowd, to the new enthusiast, that it is not needed, its gimmicks, sounds cool.

I did the mod also to let you know I know the specs, WHAT ARE THEY? something somewhere online... Didnt you work on it the other day? Cant find the bag the shims came on? The dog ate it? LOL

Once again, SHIMMING UPGRADE IS HYPE FORUM TALK...

 

[Vanning]

BS. the shims are available to do exactly what they are intended to do. Shim diffs that are sloppy. Do you think people building these low cost ready to runs care in the factory ? Why not just leave them all out ? I've told you several times that it's just my view on the subject. The rest of the stuff you are saying about specs.... I have no clue what you want. Most build them by feel. In my opinion, once again, I prefer to add the larger shim behind the pin. It's only a few dollars and once you are in there... one can make the decision on their own. You are the only crazy fool here posting pictures of guns and other off topic stuff. Then insisting your way is the Bible. Testing stuff out on your application means nothing to me. I build my diffs a certain way. Im not sure that you understand that people can pick and choose from info they gather from the internet. I thought we already established that you can keep them as is or shim. I gave my reason why I do. All you did was show me pictures of guns and random RC's. I showed you a worn out Kraton diff that may have done better with shims. If you don't think it's a good idea.... it's cool. Not a big deal. You also don't have to change the oil on your car.... but it still runs for a while. A well build rc with less slop.... wins in my book. Your boat is just patched up with that spray on crap you see on info commercials. But it floats.... not for long. No hard feelings.... heated arguments are all in good nature with me.

 

[Camo]

I totally agree but I'd say if I were to upgrade something it be the diff housing. Question is do they make one out of aluminum? The shock tower is bolted up to it and seems to take a massive amount of stress due to this.

Agree big time no one has been able to make one yet

I did the upgrade ONLY on ONE diff, to compare to the other ones, and prove to you its pointless.
Its tinkering, its NOT an upgrade. Members mention it on this forum as if its the next big hit on must do's, and everyone is following like a domino effect and nobody stops to ask or think about it.

You did it blind folded, clueless, WHATS THE PART NUMBER? You made that up, dig your own hole and make some drama excuse to sugar coat it.

Already posted pictures of the diff gears, they are brand new after more than 20 packs on 5S and 6S hard bash runs, tumbles on STOCK shims.

30 years of experience and a mechanical some paper degree, or online course, but cant tell us what are the shimming specs. What about ALL the other diffs you have done, What shimming did you do?

I don't care what you do or not, BUT don't come into the forums stating things as if they are the facts, and so on because it is not true. You create panic by stating such UPGRADE, when in fact you just did it because you have done it for 30 years, wrenching in auto mode without thinking. I also showed you that I have NEVER shimmed anything outside the factory specs, and never have had any problems. No need to fix what is not broken. Make it clear to the younger crowd, to the new enthusiast, that it is not needed, its gimmicks, sounds cool.

I did the mod also to let you know I know the specs, WHAT ARE THEY? something somewhere online... Didnt you work on it the other day? Cant find the bag the shims came on? The dog ate it? LOL

Once again, SHIMMING UPGRADE IS HYPE FORUM TALK...

Cranky you are hardcore bruzz !! Are u Scottish?
I shimmed under the planetary gear to tighten up the diff because the center diff kept leaking. It seemed to put more pressure on the o ring and worked a treat. Happy days for me no leaking center diff !! Nice bit of controversy ha ha