Kraton Kraton "Race Spec" Upgraded ESC XeRUN XR8 Plus and 4268SD 2200KV Sensored Motor Combo

[Primarrma]

So continuing on from these posts:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/race-spec-kraton-first-race-meet-and-test-drive-video.13942/

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/finally-finished-my-kraton-race-spec-build.13464/#post-163752
I thought I'd update you on my Kraton "Race Spec" build.

I am so happy with the result that I decided to make this budget build a little next level and what better way than to install a "Race Spec" motor and esc.

I went with the XeRun XR8 Plus and the 4268SD G2 2200kv initial testing is extremely promising. The reason for the smaller motor is I only run a very short track and don't think the longer can(4274SD) was needed, hopefully heat won't be an issue. I only run 4s on track also, I hope I can get a good setup with the right pinion, I've started with a 16t, but was wishing I had a 14t at hand. I'll have to buy a few different sizes, all my pinions are either way bigger or way smaller.

If anyone has any tips or suggestions please comment below.

 

[Yonic]

How would you describe the feel compared to stock electronics?

 

[White Noise]

I've been running the XR-8 Plus with a 1730kv 4092 motor in a Kraton V3 for the last few months and it's been fantastic. It's a real nice ESC and I haven't had any problems with it.

 

[Primarrma]

How would you describe the feel compared to stock electronics?

The biggest difference I've found so far and this is just testing in my front yard is the throttle control, I was able to get the car into a drift and control the angle by increasing or decreasing the speed ever so slightly. I was doing a figure 8 drift around a tree and a telegraph poll only a 4-5 feet apart on dry grass. It isn't going to be used as a basher so I won't know if it will be a good option for that(it's not waterproof).

Hopefully I'll get to the track this weekend, but it won't be for long as I'm quite busy. I hope to give it a proper test soon, I need to work out gearing for the smaller motor. The weight of my Kraton is much less than stock also. There is the 4274 2250kv motor for monster trucks and truggys, but this size was recommended to me to try first. I hope it will be ok, if not my Typhon is going to be converted to a track car.

The esc is nice, but paired with a Hobbywing sensored motor it has a brilliant feel. Is it worth twice the price of a sensorless combo, I'm yet to find out?

There are some nice programming features, and having a high voltage high current BEC is great, steering over stock is very fast and powerful.

 

[SrC]

I have the same ESC in my Tekno MT running the HW 1900kv can (4268). The feel is so very different than the OE in my Arrma.
Definitely Track competitive now. I love the timing adjustments. I am using the WIFI adapter linked to my HW Cell APP for setup. The XR8 Plus records running data on RPMs voltages and ESC temps. It is not a cheap set up though. But you get your moneys worth. It spoiled me. Great pick. very neat hardwired job you did. Keep motor and batt. wires as short as feasible. No bullets. Soldered direct. Nice job.

 

[Primarrma]

I have the same ESC in my Tekno MT running the HW 1900kv can (4268). The feel is so very different than the OE in my Arrma.
Definitely Track competitive now. I love the timing adjustments. I am using the WIFI adapter linked to my HW Cell APP for setup. The XR8 Plus records running data on RPMs voltages and ESC temps. It is not a cheap set up though. But you get your moneys worth. It spoiled me. Great pick. very neat hardwired job you did. Keep motor and batt. wires as short as feasible. No bullets. Soldered direct. Nice job.View attachment 46321

Wow that looks awesome with the braid! I want to fit a fan but with the exposed terminals I'm worried about the fan bracket shorting out.

How do you access the log information, is it through the app? Does it record motor temperature?

What adjustments did you make with the timing? Is that when you visit different tracks? Or are you making these adjustments in the app? If you happen to be running hot can you move the timing back(to the 20 range)to cool things down?

Also do you use the Turbo? I am a little confused about it, do you have to move the timing on the can and then set it in the esc or can you just set it in the esc and it will adjust the timing electronically?

Thank you very much.

 

[SrC]

No motor temps. Just ESC temps. Need the wifi app. and Wifi adapter. about $50. I leave turbo off and Timing is within the app. There is no mechanical timing advance. Just make sure your sensor lead is safely positioned. They are delicate. I have a wrapped sens. lead.
I am using an aluminum fan mount that stays on the opposite end of the can away from the motor wires. I put a dab of liquid tape on the center motor wire post solder joint. To avoid a cross short for what it is worth. You have nice solder joints. The Tekno diff is located behind the motor can. Opposite of the Arrma.

 

[Primarrma]

It would have been nicer if the motor sat the other way round. It's a great idea with the liquid tape I'll have to get some. It feels weird having exposed terminals, goes against my natural feelings.

I will have a look at a fan what brand is your bracket?

Thanks for the feedback on the soldering. I would have done a neater job if I had a proper soldering iron, I have a gas one, but the tip doesn't get hot enough, so I have to solder on the side of the tip it isn't very easy.

 

[SrC]

Despite your iron, you do good soldering. I use a digital soldering station and a lg. flat tip. Working with fat 10 gauge wires requires some heat. I set mine for 650-700F. I work fast so I don't damage (fry) the Hall Effect sensors in the sensored motor. Braiding is cheap by the roll. Definitely a learning curve to use. There are some great videos using wire braiding. Some may say it is overkill. But it looks trick and can be functional also. I get a lot of compliments. There is a wow factor. After all I do have $1,600. into my Tekno. Why not show it off. I would never go that crazy again however. Braiding will slow down your wiring process, due to measuring and prep. before soldering.

I found the Exotek 1/8 mount is the correct diameter for the HW motor, a 4268 size can even though the Exo.mount says for 40.5mm Diam.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/exotek-1-8-ebuggy-clamp-on-fan-mount-black-exo1756blk/p671640

I put the mount on the opp. end of the solder posts. ( pinion side). I feel the mount could be better. Only attatches one screw to the fan. But the mount rotates for many different angles to accommodate different positions. You need Threadlocker on all the screws or it can shift. I'm still looking for other fan mount options. I am not a heatsink believer, only because most don't fit exactly flush to the motor can completely around.( I've experimented using my temp gun.) I feel that a bad clip on HS prevents heat exchange and make the motor hotter, fan or not. I have several HW HS/fans that I don't like or use. A strong fan like WTF (40x40+mm)is best blowing on the can directly. IMO. I am using a Dusty motors chassis shroud on my Tekno when running in the muck. But it will cause a bit more heat buildup. I wont use it if it is really hot out. If on a track , I would never use that. But I don't race. No tracks anymore around me. On my Kraton 6S with OE elect. , I used strong tie wraps to put the fan on my motor and I also use screens on that esc and motor fans. It seems to make the fans last just a bit longer. I feel the Exotek mount is a bit expensive for what it is. But not many other options out there. Heatsink/fan combos are more common. I don't like the Castle fans/shroud. Its cheesey plastic.
Enjoy

 

[Primarrma]

Despite your iron, you do good soldering. I use a digital soldering station and a lg. flat tip. Working with fat 10 gauge wires requires some heat. I set mine for 650-700F. I work fast so I don't damage (fry) the Hall Effect sensors in the sensored motor. Braiding is cheap by the roll. Definitely a learning curve to use. There are some great videos using wire braiding. Some may say it is overkill. But it looks trick and can be functional also. I get a lot of compliments. There is a wow factor. After all I do have $1,600. into my Tekno. Why not show it off. I would never go that crazy again however. Braiding will slow down your wiring process, due to measuring and prep. before soldering.

I found the Exotek 1/8 mount is the correct diameter for the HW motor, a 4268 size can even though the Exo.mount says for 40.5mm Diam.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/exotek-1-8-ebuggy-clamp-on-fan-mount-black-exo1756blk/p671640

I put the mount on the opp. end of the solder posts. ( pinion side). I feel the mount could be better. Only attatches one screw to the fan. But the mount rotates for many different angles to accommodate different positions. You need Threadlocker on all the screws or it can shift. I'm still looking for other fan mount options. I am not a heatsink believer, only because most don't fit exactly flush to the motor can completely around.( I've experimented using my temp gun.) I feel that a bad clip on HS prevents heat exchange and make the motor hotter, fan or not. I have several HW HS/fans that I don't like or use. A strong fan like WTF (40x40+mm)is best blowing on the can directly. IMO. I am using a Dusty motors chassis shroud on my Tekno when running in the muck. But it will cause a bit more heat buildup. I wont use it if it is really hot out. If on a track , I would never use that. But I don't race. No tracks anymore around me. On my Kraton 6S with OE elect. , I used strong tie wraps to put the fan on my motor and I also use screens on that esc and motor fans. It seems to make the fans last just a bit longer. I feel the Exotek mount is a bit expensive for what it is. But not many other options out there. Heatsink/fan combos are more common. I don't like the Castle fans/shroud. Its cheesey plastic.
Enjoy

Thanks for all the detailed information, I really appreciate it. I'll see how it goes.

 

[Kolten]

So continuing on from these posts:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/race-spec-kraton-first-race-meet-and-test-drive-video.13942/

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/finally-finished-my-kraton-race-spec-build.13464/#post-163752
I thought I'd update you on my Kraton "Race Spec" build.

I am so happy with the result that I decided to make this budget build a little next level and what better way than to install a "Race Spec" motor and esc.

I went with the XeRun XR8 Plus and the 4268SD G2 2200kv initial testing is extremely promising. The reason for the smaller motor is I only run a very short track and don't think the longer can(4274SD) was needed, hopefully heat won't be an issue. I only run 4s on track also, I hope I can get a good setup with the right pinion, I've started with a 16t, but was wishing I had a 14t at hand. I'll have to buy a few different sizes, all my pinions are either way bigger or way smaller.

If anyone has any tips or suggestions please comment below.

View attachment 46281View attachment 46282View attachment 46283View attachment 46284View attachment 46285View attachment 46286

Sweet bro, I’m going to utilize the same esc but with the stock can for now, eventually I’ll get the HW4274SD motor. I’ve had my eye on the Tekin setup but the price tag is about a hundo more. Next will be changing diff oils. ??

 

[Primarrma]

Sweet bro, I’m going to utilize the same esc but with the stock can for now, eventually I’ll get the HW4274SD motor. I’ve had my eye on the Tekin setup but the price tag is about a hundo more. Next will be changing diff oils. ??

The Tekin stuff is nice, but heaps of the guys had dramas with their setups, maybe they are just more sensitive. The newest Castle stuff is pretty tempting too, seems they are offering more for the money now, even if it means you have to connect a PC to adjust some of the settings. The sensored HW system is really smooth, just not water resistant at all.

 

[Kolten]

The Tekin stuff is nice, but heaps of the guys had dramas with their setups, maybe they are just more sensitive. The newest Castle stuff is pretty tempting too, seems they are offering more for the money now, even if it means you have to connect a PC to adjust some of the settings. The sensored HW system is really smooth, just not water resistant at all.

Hmm ? kraton for full race.. if I do that then I’ll need to design a new servo mount for our 6s line up, it will be re positioned to have a wider base on the chassis Eliminating flex completely while also providing more room for a taller or more powerful servo. What’s really cool is the mount will accommodate both standard and taller servos also keep the servo cooler. Just the servo horn linkage will need to be swapped from single piece to three piece. Lol this is my first 6s rig so I’m all excited about making a few things for here and there ?

 

[Primarrma]

Hmm ? kraton for full race.. if I do that then I’ll need to design a new servo mount for our 6s line up, it will be re positioned to have a wider base on the chassis Eliminating flex completely while also providing more room for a taller or more powerful servo. What’s really cool is the mount will accommodate both standard and taller servos also keep the servo cooler. Just the servo horn linkage will need to be swapped from single piece to three piece. Lol this is my first 6s rig so I’m all excited about making a few things for here and there ?

It isn't the best race car, but with some simple setup adjustments and a few Talion parts, the thing isn't far off the pace at all. It is best to keep as much weight off as possible, that has made a huge difference to the performance.

 

[SrC]

Light weight on the track is how its done. Track guys even leave out chassis bracing to some extent. Some like the flex it creates. Works to your advantage.. Track running is so different than bashing a heavy tank. 4s is the norm for the 1/8 track. Gear accordingly. I love my 2 XR8 plus's. Both in my Lim and Tekno.
Sensored set up is almost a prerequisite for the track.

 

[Primarrma]

Light weight on the track is how its done. Track guys even leave out chassis bracing to some extent. Some like the flex it creates. Works to your advantage.. Track running is so different than bashing a heavy tank. 4s is the norm for the 1/8 track. Gear accordingly. I love my 2 XR8 plus's. Both in my Lim and Tekno.
Sensored set up is almost a prerequisite for the track.

For sure, I've left everything I could plastic instead of going to heavy duty parts and removed everything I could think of that didn't seem necessary.
I wish that the xr8 plus combos were water resistant they drive so nice I'd happily have one on a basher. Hopefully HW will make a range like the Castle one's that's a tough sensored system. 4s on this setup with the lightened car is plenty, 6s is crazy!!!

 

[SrC]

I never run in the wet. So waterproof/ water resistance is not important to me in an ESC.
XR8plus is a competition ESC. I feel they can run cooler Not WP'ed. That's my guess, because potting any ESC can be done easily. But then it becomes un-repairable, another drawback. Almost all comp. ESC's are not WP/WR. And mostly due to the sensored port design on comp ESC's.. It cant be effectively WP. You can use Dielectric grease sparingly around the sensor ports like Castle instructs to do. The sensor port pins are sensitive to moisture in general. And no motor is truly waterproof by design. No one can tell me otherwise.

 

[Primarrma]

I never run in the wet. So waterproof/ water resistance is not important to me in an ESC.
XR8plus is a competition ESC. I feel they can run cooler Not WP'ed. That's my guess, because potting any ESC can be done easily. But then it becomes un-repairable, another drawback. Almost all comp. ESC's are not WP/WR. And mostly due to the sensored port design on comp ESC's.. It cant be effectively WP. You can use Dielectric grease sparingly around the sensor ports like Castle instructs to do. The sensor port pins are sensitive to moisture in general. And no motor is truly waterproof by design. No one can tell me otherwise.

There have been plenty of times I have been running my car in the dry and happen to find a deep puddle or mud, it's just a consideration if people are going to use these combos for more than just at a highly groomed track. Where I was racing you can't really call it much more than prearranged bashing, the course often had water pooling on the edges of the track.

I appreciate your comments and wonder what dielectric grease is made of? Most people would think I'm crazy for driving on sand, but driving in water is much worse for your car I've found.

 

[SrC]

Water vs sand... I would take sand. But I avoid both. I understand water cant be avoided sometimes. Been there and even grass dew not readily apparent can wreak havoc. I fried an ESC because of Grass dew that just mysteriously appeared at dusk while bashing. The rig was soaked from just dew alone. Go figure.

Edit:
Dielectric grease is a non conductive silicone grease. It waterproofs and prevents corrosion to electrical components. It should not be placed on signal based circuits because it can still induce minor conductivity.(not 100% completely dielectric in this application) Sensored leads are signal based. You just use Dielectric grease around the port to prevent water and dirt from entering the port and getting into the ESC. DG can alter signal freq's if in contact with that circuit.

 

[Primarrma]

Water vs sand... I would take sand. But I avoid both. I understand water cant be avoided sometimes. Been there and even grass dew not readily apparent can wreak havoc. I fried an ESC because of Grass dew that just mysteriously appeared at dusk while bashing. The rig was soaked from just dew alone. Go figure.

Edit:
Dielectric grease is a non conductive silicone grease. It waterproofs and prevents corrosion to electrical components. It should not be placed on signal based circuits because it can still induce minor conductivity.(not 100% completely dielectric in this application) Sensored leads are signal based. You just use Dielectric grease around the port to prevent water and dirt from entering the port and getting into the ESC. DG can alter signal freq's if in contact with that circuit.

Ok, interesting, I've been there in dew that's for sure.

At work we use a product called "super lube" (funny name) I think it must be similar, it is used to help seal a sensitive cable from water ingress. There is some stuff I use on my coffee machine it is a food grade grease, made by Inox, I wonder what the conductive properties are of it.