Kraton Kraton rear diff outdrive's

veenendaal62

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Hello ,i Have a new Kraton
I don't drive or jump like crazy but now after 4 runs on 5s lipo de rear diff out drive's wornout.
I don't read any ware that more people have that problem ,what can be the problem?
greetings jeroen
 

chalmene

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How badly are they "worn out" ? Got a pic? They will wear out over time, but shouldn't need replaced after only 4 runs by any means.
 

Vanning

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You may be able to harden them. I've researched a little bit on doing it. Only one side in the rear is slightly worn on mine.
 

Kauaiguy

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Hello ,i Have a new Kraton
I don't drive or jump like crazy but now after 4 runs on 5s LiPo de rear diff out drive's wornout.
I don't read any ware that more people have that problem ,what can be the problem?
greetings jeroen
You may be able to harden them. I've researched a little bit on doing it. Only one side in the rear is slightly worn on mine.
Maybe need to adjust ride height so the diff out drives are at less of an angle,does it click with the suspension fully extended when you spin the wheels?
 

chalmene

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Maybe need to adjust ride height so the diff out drives are at less of an angle,does it click with the suspension fully extended when you spin the wheels?
Yes it does, you need to adjust the travel until the clicking goes away. There are set screws on the top of each lower arm, near the outputs. Use these to lessen the droop until things are smooth when extended.
 

Vanning

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Hmmmm... I'll have to look at why I only have the left rear cup showing signs of wear. Something is going on there. Interesting. Maybe it's set a little lower on the droop. All others are fine. I never get a clicking sound out of anything....all feels rather smooth.
 

veenendaal62

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a photo ,the ride height is oké ,thats not the probleem
 

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Vanning

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The steel isn't hard enough is all. That's why some 1/8th's are big bucks and some are not.
 

Vanning

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I just ordered some Kraton outdrives. I'll harden one, then temper it and install it in place of the worn out one I have. Just an experiment to see if it holds up longer. It will take some time to know the results .....winter is near and I do not get much time to drive RC's.
 

Vanning

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Once I get them in the mail...I'll experiment on one.

I'll heat one up with the torch till it looses its magnetism (orange in color)...then I'll just dip it in water or old motor oil.

Then take a file to see if it skips over the metal.

After that...I'll probably heat it in my oven to make it a little tougher. Hardened steel is brittle so after it is made hard...you got to make it tougher by tempering it. The proper temps are the key to success. Sometimes you can see the temper color of the metal.

I ran a file on one of my worn outdrives...they are sort of hard. Some may be done better than others because I only have one that is worn. When they are made....the QC may be a little off.

I also recently found a graphite dry lubricant spray...It's called Blaster (Home Depot). I've found graphite to be an incredible lubricant on steel . I've seen this stuff do wonders on real stressed out components. Especially where you don't want sand and dirt to stick. This dry lube seems to stick real well and it's real messy but then it dries. I spray it in a Q-tip, make it soaked with the lube..then rub it into the outdrives etc.. You can just spray it in with the small red tube but it gets all over the place. .

Stuff like this takes a long time to test.
 
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ParkRacing

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Once I get them in the mail...I'll experiment on one.

I'll heat one up with the torch till it looses its magnetism (orange in color)...then I'll just dip it in water or old motor oil.

Then take a file to see if it skips over the metal.

After that...I'll probably heat it in my oven to make it a little tougher. Hardened steel is brittle so after it is made hard...you got to make it tougher by tempering it. The proper temps are the key to success. Sometimes you can see the temper color of the metal.

I ran a file on one of my worn outdrives...they are sort of hard. Some may be done better than others because I only have one that is worn. When they are made....the QC may be a little off.

I also recently found a graphite dry lubricant spray...It's called Blaster (Home Depot). I've found graphite to be an incredible lubricant on steel . I've seen this stuff do wonders on real stressed out components. Especially where you don't want sand and dirt to stick. This dry lube seems to stick real well and it's real messy but then it dries. I spray it in a Q-tip, make it soaked with the lube..then rub it into the outdrives etc.. You can just spray it in with the small red tube but it gets all over the place. .

Stuff like this takes a long time to test.
Any updates?
 

Vanning

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Any updates?
The graphite dry lube is excellent. It's going to take me a while to gather data on the hardened outdrives. I don't get to ride my RC's that much. I won't forget to keep this in mind.


As far as the dry lube.... I feel it's working great.
 

Vanning

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How about using the ones out of the durango dex8 truggy?

Great thinking.....I asked a few online places on E-bay if they fit, they could not positively answer me. They were not sure if they fit. I tried to study different pictures of them...but I just gave up on it. I want to say that more care was probably put into the steel used in the dex8 outdrives. The cost of those vehicles comes from something.

The Kraton parts look like some raw, unfinished parts...The DEX8's look like they were taken to the end and completed with all the steps needed. It's hard to tell if they are the same length.

tdr210018.jpg ara310439.jpg
 
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Rednas_N

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I don't know why they are so expensive. To buy a set in my country (Netherlands) I have to pay 20,-. eBay is not much cheaper..

What part number is that from the DEX8?
 

Kauaiguy

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I don't know why they are so expensive. To buy a set in my country (Netherlands) I have to pay 20,-. eBay is not much cheaper..

What part number is that from the DEX8?
Another important difference is the section the bearing rides on,the Arrma has a bigger dia where the bearing sits,the other doesn't.
 

Vanning

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Another important difference is the section the bearing rides on,the Arrma has a bigger dia where the bearing sits,the other doesn't.

I see that.....there is the answer. Good call Kauaiguy.
 

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