Kraton Kraton rear diff problem

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crracer507

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 4s
I am running into a problem with my rear diff. everything was great until I took it apart the yoke assemble and changed out the bearings. I did not open the diff. I reassembled and ran the truck. I realized i had the yoke in backwards and deformed the yoke.

I bought new yoke and tore it apart and reassembled now the rear diff is difficult to turn and the slipper has trouble turning it. I am at a loss i have taken it apart and put it back twice now and the front diff is much smoother than the rear. everything seems to be assembled correctly and when I have the rear diff out and spin in hand it is difficult to move.

Suggestions? I don't see why the rear diff would be difficult to move when out of the truck.

any help is much appreciated.
 
How did you for the yoke in backwards? ??

I would almost reset and start over. New yoke, diff, input, tower, bearings, etc. sounds like you messed it up kind of badly.
 
How did you for the yoke in backwards? ??

I would almost reset and start over. New yoke, diff, input, tower, bearings, etc. sounds like you messed it up kind of badly.

when you look at the yoke they look much the same but one side has a has a nub on the inside and it can rub agains the sun gear.

the issue is the part that i didn't take apart seems the be the problem the diff gear itself and the hub assembly. its just not smooth. I am getting frustrated and may just see if Jenny has one.
 
when you look at the yoke they look much the same but one side has a has a nub on the inside and it can rub agains the sun gear.

the issue is the part that i didn't take apart seems the be the problem the diff gear itself and the hub assembly. its just not smooth. I am getting frustrated and may just see if Jenny has one.
Did you retain the shim on the main gear side? Another thing is don’t over tighten the yoke screws. Just snug them and test for slop side to side. Tighten more to get the slop out if needed. Otherwise you risk stripping the plastic.
 
Did you retain the shim on the main gear side? Another thing is don’t over tighten the yoke screws. Just snug them and test for slop side to side. Tighten more to get the slop out if needed. Otherwise you risk stripping the plastic.
Yes I retained the spacer. Thank for the tip on not over tightening. I think the problem seems to be that the input gear is rubbing on the diff housing. Both parts are new.

Any tips on getting the bearings the right distance on the input gear and still getting a good mesh?
 
Yes I retained the spacer. Thank for the tip on not over tightening. I think the problem seems to be that the input gear is rubbing on the diff housing. Both parts are new.

Any tips on getting the bearings the right distance on the input gear and still getting a good mesh?
I put a shim between the yoke and the bearing closest to the input gear trying to push the gear towards the cup. But I never actually used that setup after doing so. Reason being I just received my HR metal diffs and will run those instead.
 
So my parts came in today and I reassembled I followed the exploded diagram on the Arrma website and I got the same result. What am I doing wrong. I have all new parts for the rear diff and for some reason I am melting the yoke. What am i doing wrong? It seemed tight when installed and the diff moved freely.

I am at a loss.

IMG_3824.jpeg
IMG_3823.jpeg
IMG_3822.jpeg
 
If you put the input gear in the yoke but leave the diff cup out, does the input gear move freely or does it rub on the yoke? In the first picture it looks like the first bearing is too close to the input gear - there should be a bit of a gap.
 
Clutch was too loose melted the rear yoke. the diff is tight new it is NORMAL people are scared to tell you this its starting to upset me i made the mesh tighter on my 4s kraton with metal diff yokes and the diff has been healtier than my 3s typhon diff or outcast 4s took a month before starting to hear a gear,esh in the rear diff vs one week on any other 3-4s car. Just fellow the manual instruction if you use the stock yokes set your clutch correctly i find the clutch can be tuned easier at 15t i was not able to find the ideal clutch setting to stop the wheelies since i have put the 15t today im able to put the whole throtle down on a short wheel base truck its like a kraton but does two more backflips. Same went for my kraton 4s easier to see when the clutch is loose. You can hear the clutch slipping but if you can go at fast speed and wheelie when you want you are okay when you nail the trigger and you just hear screams then its too loose and doesn't wheelie or goes into limp mode under acceleration. Honestly clutch needs more tuning than a center diff its like dealing with a nitro car engine imo

Me too i found the 3-4s diff completly difficult to understand the number one fact is your gearmesh on a diff should never bind but the 3-4s inputgear is made to wear down and find the ideal mesh no matter what you do people might say im saying nonsense i have changed 6 diffs on my 4s kraton and more so i have studied the diffs how they wear down why the input gear teeths are bigger and doesn't fit nice brand new i broke my head on them because im like that i want to understand why my diffs were failing and why they started looking like spike gears.
I also like to put a coat of superglue and let it dry on where the second inout bearing sits because it develops side to side play and up and down play to me the sungear moving slightly up and down from the outside because the bearing doesn't sit snug enough to move is not right to my eye i do that on every bearing that sits not snug enough
If you put your finger on the protective plastic slipper hub in front fo the motor plate burns you clutch is too tight or you are at the limit or your going to start melting on stuff
 
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Can someone post a picture of what it is suppose to look like? The bearings spacing and the mesh.

I am also having a problem getting the slipper apart I have all the part just not very mechanical. Please help.
 
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