Kraton Kraton servo upgrade?

[dpricenator]

And here is a solid servo horn that works well. I had to drill out the threads in the last hole, but it took maybe 5 seconds with the dremel.

https://www.amazon.com/Axial-AX3083...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0RPV0ZTC17SBAPT6PWJA

 

[Dubbl-A]

I use that on my Wraith. And it see's some abuse when on the rocks.

 

[slowmethinks]

I run a HiTec 7954 in my Talion. Its been good so far.

I really want to pick up the Savox 2290 though... Im rough on my toys!

Also, +1 on the Axial Servo horn. The Hot Racing horns work well too!

 

[Vanning]

I use the 500 oz. Savox servo, stock horn, Voltage Hobbies mount, HR bell cranks. The bell cranks are not really needed but they are nice. The 500 oz servo is nice but I still needed a little more. So I slightly increased the voltage. Just a tad. It works well. The Savox 2290 would be great.... it's 10 dollars off at A-main now. I think that drops it down to $150. The torque is probably perfect for monster trucks of the kratons size. My 500 oz just turns my tires at a stand still..... adding a bit more voltage got it right. So.... 500 plus ounces it takes to turn easy at a stand In my Kraton.....just to give people some idea. Not that it has to be able to do this.

 

[dpricenator]

Vanning, I am surprised you haven't done the Voltage Hobbies Steering Rack. I ordered it not even realizing I needed it. But when I went to replace my Bell Crank, I notice my stock Steering Rack was bent. And not in a symmetrical way. I was glad I had the Steering rack going in at that point. Super beefy part, and swaps out with no additional mods.

IN regards to the Bell Crank, I love the fact I have it in there. Strong piece, bearings included, etc. And it works great. But the bent rack could have been part of my issue, and why my servo burnt up. So now that I have the Savox 1210sg, the voltage hobbies Steering rack and the Hot Racing Bell Crank, the Kraton turns like a dream. I know it's only 277 oz. of torque, but it seems to snap the wheels around nicely.

 

[Vanning]

I thought about it..... I've been staring at that part for a while but also trying to set the servo saver to prevent any damage. . Im still playing around with the steering. I'm trying to get a sense of the servo saver. Is it tighter in one direction than the other ? I want some weakness in the steering but it has to be just right. The bell cranks are strong no matter what. Plastic or aluminum, they are both strong. But.... does the slip joint cam work differently now when you have metal on metal as aposed to plastic on plastic ? I can still make the slip joint work but I'm still playing with that spring to see if it should be backed off. Also.... it has red loctite on it. Should I lock the black collar back in again or just leave it loctite free ? The cam should only work in a high impact.... so maybe I'll loosen it till I see it operate from just steering... then tighten till it just stops, then a tad more. Idk...... any advice ?


I just did some research..... that collar should get a little red loctite after you figure out if it's set proper. (I might not put any on... IDK yet) may use blue instead. I think the aluminum bell cranks (servo saver) has to be set looser than the plastic. I usually take something apart and install it 57 times before I get happy with it. At least now I can turn the collar while it's in the vehicle to figure out what feels right. Maybe Arrma can design it with the adjuster on top next time but the hole is there.

I found a great video from TP also, but the music is horrible, he runs his 5mm from chassis with plastic bell cranks .

Maybe I'll get the rack also from Voltage.... good people they are over there. I really appreciated the nice letter they wrote along with a high quality part.

 

[dpricenator]

You know what? I really liked that letter as well.

 

[j1980mac]

This is interesting!

I use the 500 oz. Savox servo, stock horn, Voltage Hobbies mount, HR bell cranks. The bell cranks are not really needed but they are nice. The 500 oz servo is nice but I still needed a little more. So I slightly increased the voltage. Just a tad. It works well. The Savox 2290 would be great.... it's 10 dollars off at A-main now. I think that drops it down to $150. The torque is probably perfect for monster trucks of the kratons size. My 500 oz just turns my tires at a stand still..... adding a bit more voltage got it right. So.... 500 plus ounces it takes to turn easy at a stand In my Kraton.....just to give people some idea. Not that it has to be able to do this.

@Vanning JUST bought these, maybe they'll fix my issue! Don't mean to hijack this thread, but would like an opinion. Thanks in advance!

 

[Vanning]

Listen up, this seems to be a must do. I really believe my recent discovery is key to this HR aluminum bell crank servo saver cam operation. What I found is this thing isn't smooth and feels like it Galls against each surface . The cure.... fire arm grade dry graphite powder on the cam edges and the red tube. Blue loctite on the threads of the spring collar. Adjust so the cam just opens a few millimeters both ways freely. Smooth as heck no galling. Let the loctite dry over night.

 

[dpricenator]

I'll take mine down next time I am in it and see what mine is doing. It feels smooth turning the wheels by hand, so I never really thought about anything else. Also, mine will easily turn at a stand still, using only the Savox 1210sg, which is only 277 oz of trq.

 

[Vanning]

I'm talking about the cam action of the HR aluminum servo saver. Not the strering itself. I didn't like the feel. It felt as if it was galling together. Now, with the graphite, it feels like it will actually work when it has to. The aluminum wasn't sliding at all for me, mostly in one direction. The plastic parts slide easy without any help from a lubricant. Putting graphite powder on the aluminum cam surface works awesome. However... PineCar dry white would probably be the best type of graphite to use.

If that servo saver doesn't work properly, the servo will not last long at all.

This is interesting!


@Vanning JUST bought these, maybe they'll fix my issue! Don't mean to hijack this thread, but would like an opinion. Thanks in advance!

That video did the trick... I remember you said you were having an issue. Now I see what it is. That servo saver has to be way tighter than that. You also did well by getting that aluminum servo frame in there. If you are new to rc.... don't worry, you soon will get a better hang of it. They can be lots of work.... it's normal. Once you get dialed in, you will be good to go. Best of luck to you... I think you will have that fixed soon.

I'll take mine down next time I am in it and see what mine is doing. It feels smooth turning the wheels by hand, so I never really thought about anything else. Also, mine will easily turn at a stand still, using only the Savox 1210sg, which is only 277 oz of trq.

Mine just gets effortless at above 500 oz I would say. Lower would work but not the way I want it to. My idea of effortless is quite hi probably. Over 600oz would make me happier. But not at $150. Lol. Each application, tire and surface is different. So is each persons explanation of how something is working or how they want it to work. All I know.... it's close to perfect for me at a reasonable price.

 

[j1980mac]

I'm talking about the cam action of the HR aluminum servo saver. Not the strering itself. I didn't like the feel. It felt as if it was gauling together. Now, with the graphite, it feels like it will actually work when it has to. The aluminum wasn't sliding at all for me, mostly in one direction. The plastic parts slide easy without any help from a lubricant. Putting graphite powder on the aluminum cam surface works awesome.

If that servo saver doesn't work properly, that servo will not last long at all.



That video did the trick... I remember you said you were having an issue. Now I see what it is. That servo saver has to be way tighter than that. You also did well by getting that aluminum servo frame in there. If you are new to rc.... don't worry, you soon will get a better hang of it. They can be lots of work.... it's normal. Once you get dialed in, you will be good to go. Best of luck to you... I think you will have that fixed soon.



Mine just gets effortless at above 500 oz I would say. Lower would work but not the way I want it to. My idea of effortless is quite hi probably. Over 600oz would make me happier. But not at $150. Lol. Each application, tire and surface is different. So is each persons explanation of how something is working or how they want it to work. All I know.... it's close to perfect for me at a reasonable price.

@Vanning I'm am still having fun tinkering around. I hate the stock servo saver, but will try and make it tighter (while waiting for the new HR servo saver and HD bell crank). So when you say tighter, you mean that gap needs to be less, meaning the spring needs to be more decompressed?

 

[Vanning]

In your video it looks like your servo saver needs to be tighter. To do that, you have to make the collar tighter against the big spring. It stops the cam from opening up under normal steering conditions. Plus that collar will probably be impossible to turn unless you remove the part from the vehicle. Then you can carefully turn it with an appropriate tool of choice. Mine had loctite red on it and that's why it's hard to turn. Take it off. Once it's off, clean the threads. Then screw it back on. snug it up till you feel it's correct. Put it all back in the vehicle. Watch that video of Tp's I posted. It shows you how to use that small hole on the chassis to adjust it while in the vehicle. About 3 1/2 to 4mm of thread showing under the collar is probably in the ball park of being somewhat properly adjusted.

Your servo horn is all jacked up also but that may just be the video. It looks loose.

 

[j1980mac]

View attachment 6718

In your video it looks like your servo saver needs to be tighter. To do that, you have to make the collar tighter against the big spring. It stops the cam from opening up under normal steering conditions. Plus that collar will probably be impossible to turn unless you remove the part from the vehicle. Then you can carefully turn it with an appropriate tool of choice. Mine had loctite red on it and that's why it's hard to turn. Take it off. Once it's off, clean the threads. Then screw it back on. snug it up till you feel it's correct. Put it all back in the vehicle. Watch that video of Tp's I posted. It shows you how to use that small hole on the chassis to adjust it while in the vehicle. About 3 1/2 to 4mm of thread showing under the collar is probably in the ball park of being somewhat properly adjusted.

Your servo horn is all jacked up also but that may just be the video. It looks loose.

@Vanning confirmed! Thanks for the direction!! I'll let you know how it turns out. I still got the beefier parts on the way.

 

[dpricenator]

Way to go Vanning!!!!.. And I see what you mean on the servo Saver. I'm going to stop and grab some graphite on the way home.

 

[Vanning]

Way to go Vanning!!!!.. And I see what you mean on the servo Saver. I'm going to stop and grab some graphite on the way home.

Cool dprice... make sure it's a good grade of graphite....nice and fine. Or get white if you can find any. I once got some from the lock area of Home Depot and it was absolute garbage. I ordered mine from McMaster Carr. Firearm grade is made well but the white graphite is the best. Never in my life have I had trouble with firearm grade graphite on aluminum or metal...It's simply amazing as a lube.

Aluminum on aluminum under pressure is no good....let me know what you think after you set it up again with some graphite all on it. From what I know from using the stuff on various applications that are almost the same situation, it lasts a good while. Slow sliding parts...aluminum against aluminum under stress. The graphite fills in all the microscopic pits in the metal and makes it slide without transferring the material from one part to the other. Which causes the galling. Plastic on aluminum wouldn't do that, or plastic on plastic.

 

[j1980mac]

View attachment 6718

In your video it looks like your servo saver needs to be tighter. To do that, you have to make the collar tighter against the big spring. It stops the cam from opening up under normal steering conditions. Plus that collar will probably be impossible to turn unless you remove the part from the vehicle. Then you can carefully turn it with an appropriate tool of choice. Mine had loctite red on it and that's why it's hard to turn. Take it off. Once it's off, clean the threads. Then screw it back on. snug it up till you feel it's correct. Put it all back in the vehicle. Watch that video of Tp's I posted. It shows you how to use that small hole on the chassis to adjust it while in the vehicle. About 3 1/2 to 4mm of thread showing under the collar is probably in the ball park of being somewhat properly adjusted.

Your servo horn is all jacked up also but that may just be the video. It looks loose.

@Vanning took it all apart, tightened it (about 2-3mm of open cam showing at most), and it sings sweet servo tunes from left to right! Can't thank you enough brother!

 

[jonUF02]

Just put in Savox 1256TG, I don't get my stuff wet more than casual moisture in the grass. It fits perfectly, and specs are good. I did the cheap aluminum standoff mod for the mount, works good as well. Cut off 20mm legs from stock plastic mount, replace with M3X20mm threaded standoffs. $3 on Ebay. I have the Fast Eddy bearing kit which came with bearings to replace brass bushings in the steering rack.

 

[j1980mac]

Just put in Savox 1256TG, I don't get my stuff wet more than casual moisture in the grass. It fits perfectly, and specs are good. I did the cheap aluminum standoff mod for the mount, works good as well. Cut off 20mm legs from stock plastic mount, replace with M3X20mm threaded standoffs. $3 on Ebay. I have the Fast Eddy bearing kit which came with bearings to replace brass bushings in the steering rack.

I had to get the waterproof savox 1210 just because you never know when you play too close to the water.

 

[bsiegmeier48]

Oh dang. I could swear he told me I need spacers. My bad.

Did you end up needing be spacers ?