Kraton Kraton shock set up for jumps

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Sammyj18

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Arrma RC's
Hey All,

Ive got about 8 packs through my kraton now and I have been learning a ton. I spend about 80 percent of my driving time at the local playground with the kids. It has a small “skate park” section with some concrete jumps and a giant grass sledding hill that you can get some good air of the top if you take it at speed. I am getting better and better at landing it but I think its bottoming out pretty hard. I am not doing any crazy 15 foot jumps like the you tube guys...just typical 4ft or less. I can hear what sounds like the chassis slap the ground and its pretty scratched up. I bought the RPM rear skid plate and will be installing the RPM front bumper and skid plate as soon as I get the V2 bumper that fits under it.

Looking for shock oil/spring rate suggestions. From what I can see in the manual the truck already has 80wt shock oil but I am wondering should I go heavier or get stiffer springs? Also does cranking down the preload nut help or does that just raise the ride height? I have attached a pic of my chassis. It looks rough to me but I am new so maybe its just typical.

Thanks!
 

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Chassis slap is completely normal when landing and the scratches are normal as well.
Ideally you want the ride height setup to be where the a-arms are parallel to the ground with battery installed ready to run.
Jacking the preload up with the shock collar increases ride height but tends to break or bend the shock rod ends more often. One way around that is to upgrade to Tekno rod ends which are beefier/stronger
 
Keep in mind that the (stiffer) Tekno Orange springs are an upgrade to Kraton v1 and v2 springs but are softer than the V3 2018 springs
 
Kraton and Outcast shocks are the same
 
Sammyj18 said:
Hey All,

Ive got about 8 packs through my kraton now and I have been learning a ton. I spend about 80 percent of my driving time at the local playground with the kids. It has a small “skate park” section with some concrete jumps and a giant grass sledding hill that you can get some good air of the top if you take it at speed. I am getting better and better at landing it but I think its bottoming out pretty hard. I am not doing any crazy 15 foot jumps like the you tube guys...just typical 4ft or less. I can hear what sounds like the chassis slap the ground and its pretty scratched up. I bought the RPM rear skid plate and will be installing the RPM front bumper and skid plate as soon as I get the V2 bumper that fits under it.

Looking for shock oil/spring rate suggestions. From what I can see in the manual the truck already has 80wt shock oil but I am wondering should I go heavier or get stiffer springs? Also does cranking down the preload nut help or does that just raise the ride height? I have attached a pic of my chassis. It looks rough to me but I am new so maybe its just typical.

Thanks!
Click to expand...


Mine looks the same way and it is only 5 days old, lol. I am still working on my jumping technique. Lots of ugly landings but getting better.
 
Yea I been taking my kraton off bigger and bigger jumps. I have two ramps in my yard and I want bigger ones now lol

The chassis slap does bother me but I don't think its too hard. Maybe the car is designed for that. Im getting better at landings. This is much more controllable in the air than the revo which is why I don't mind taking it off bigger jumps.

Backflips are kinda hard for me because it doesn't seem to go backwards fast enough. I do land most of them but just barely. Had a couple face first plants though. Maybe im doing it wrong. I was thinking of putting in a 15t pinion. Would that help get more speed with the backflips?
 
Jumping to the 15t will increase the wheel speed and as result increase the vehicles speed at which it rotates in air, especially when running backflips

If you haven't done so already, bump the punch setting up on the ESC. This imo makes the most noticeable difference in mid air rotation. Stock punch setting is 4 on a scale of 1-9. I usually do speed runs on 1 or 2 to keep the front end down, general bashing on 3-6 and 7-9 for stupidity and showing off for onlookers. For me punch setting 9 is almost unusable, as it makes the vehicle too responsive to throttle input and I have a hard time adjusting my reaction time to pull off a wheels-down landing
 
JvG said:
Yes, i went for 1000cst front and 800cst rear (Kraton V2). Also noticed that a heavy battery has impact on the landings.
Click to expand...
According to the manual, the outcast has 1000cst in all 4. So, guessing I should just leave it as it is since it has stiffer springs than the old version. I ordered some associated 80wt (1000cst) and associated 2000wt diff oil. Thought maybe I could mix it 80/20 to thicken up the oil a bit.
 
I got o ring shock pistons by m2c and installed them upside down.
Item #
M2C9668
My front end still smacks but not nearly as hard so im gonna try 80wt oil

Tried 80 wt, not much better. Guess ill go to 100 in the front, its weird that the rebound rate is the same but the compression rate isn’t.
 
A couple years ago I remember I was trying to figure out how to keep the chassis from slapping the ground. Then realized as I stiffened the springs and thickened the fluid, that I had lost a ton of control on the "flat" ground. 1 little bump would have me bouncing all over the place. Then I came to the conclusion that the chassis slapping the ground was fine, and actually showed me when I had made a clean landing. 4 wheels down...SLAP!. I upgraded the shocks to the Teckno full option shocks and run the 3 hole convex white derlin pistons with 80 weight up front and 70 wt in the rear. These shocks have been bullet proof since the swap. BUt the chassis still slaps on landings.
 
FreightTrain03 said:
I got o ring shock pistons by m2c and installed them upside down.
Item #
M2C9668
My front end still smacks but not nearly as hard so im gonna try 80wt oil

Tried 80 wt, not much better. Guess ill go to 100 in the front, its weird that the rebound rate is the same but the compression rate isn’t.
Click to expand...
I checked those out after seeing your post. Is a weird design. The fluid pushes the o-ring against the wall of the shock due to the slots in the piston. That would have to add a lot of pressure to add any "binding" on the wall.

Traxxas actually made pistons with a recess in them that had 4 holes total and a reed valve blocking two of the holes. Then it would rebound quickly, but compress slowly. I run them in all 3 of my revos.
 
olds97_lss said:
I checked those out after seeing your post. Is a weird design. The fluid pushes the o-ring against the wall of the shock due to the slots in the piston. That would have to add a lot of pressure to add any "binding" on the wall.

Traxxas actually made pistons with a recess in them that had 4 holes total and a reed valve blocking two of the holes. Then it would rebound quickly, but compress slowly. I run them in all 3 of my revos.
Click to expand...

Im gonna have to check those out, the ones i got definitely help alot, with the stock pistons i was bottoming out hard dropping my car from 2ft even when i tried with double shock springs. But it also weighs 15 lbs lol

Do you have a part number?
 
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