Kraton shock-spring and oil upgrades

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504_KRATON

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Arrma RC's
My kraton is v2 is way too soft in front and too stiff in back. I have 70wt oil in all shocks and the dampening has improved, but with a squishy front and stiff rear it's hard to leave the face of a jump without a nose-down attitude. My question is: what shock spring upgrades would you recommend?

Thanks in advance for any responses,
Dave
 
Yup. Running Tekno orange at 100mm all 4 corners with 40wt oil and a splash of 90wt oil mixed in. Seems to handle well and jump.
 
My kraton is v2 is way too soft in front and too stiff in back. I have 70wt oil in all shocks and the dampening has improved, but with a squishy front and stiff rear it's hard to leave the face of a jump without a nose-down attitude. My question is: what shock spring upgrades would you recommend?

Thanks in advance for any responses,
Dave
Someone told me to use team Durango shocks. I haven't tried this yet but am willing to try since am braking shocks
 
Sorry I am new to this but I see it says no springs and no pistons. Orange springs got it but what pistons? And 80 ET what does that refer to? Is that oil? If so can you be specific like what brand. Thanks I appreciate it. My local hobby shops aren't any more knowledgeable than I am.
 
It should say "80 WT" like 80 weight shock oil. I used the stuff from Team Associated. There are literally hundreds of options and the best way to decide is to try a few. Then try 80 in the front and 70 in the back. So that is the thickness of the shock oil. The thicker the oil, the bigger the number.

The shocks I use are the "full option" shocks and do not include the Pistons or shock cap Bushings. They do have the gold colores TiN-coated shafts, and the rod guides are all Derlin, which is tougher and provide smother action. You will also need to buy the StandOffs/mounts. You will need to build the shocks from the ground up. Be sure you get a tube of Team Associated Green Slime, and use it on all the parts, it'll prevent tears in the O-rings, and prevent leaks later on.

You can buy the standard shocks for that same car, and they run roughly half the price, and the only difference is that you don't get the TiN-Coated shafts, and the guides are plastic not Derlin, but you do still get 4mm shafts. The pistons and shock cap bushings come with the kit, but you will still need the Standoffs. And with either set you will need to drill out the hole on the shock tower to 4mm from the 3mm hole it has now.

If you can find the stock shocks, you could buy 4-5 complete sets for what I paid for my Teckno set. Luckily some guys are finding them cheaper than I did.
 
You have been steered the right direction. As far as fluid weights mine likes lighter fluid in the rear than in the front. If you want to stay with the 70 in the front try 50 or 60 in the rear. I am running 80w front and 60wt rear, when I leave the face of most jumps it stays close to the same pitch.
 
Yes I believe so. I was looking for the purchase history, but could not find it. And The rear end on mine is bouncier than I would like.
 
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