Kraton Kraton upper suspension arm/pivot ball issue

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I applied a thin layer of urethane. It’s the stuff that windshealds are heald in with. Hope that works.

tefalon tape is a lubricant. I can’t imagine it would help.
 
Good luck.

Teflon tape is also a sealant. I'm hoping it binds up the threads. And reversible if it fails.
 
Good luck.

Teflon tape is also a sealant. I'm hoping it binds up the threads. And reversible if it fails.
I don’t think it’s a sealant. It lubes the threads so you can get a fitting tighter. The actual threads of a pipe are what make a seal.
 
CA glue or E6000... Don't waste loctite on metal to plastic.
Thread locker any color with plastics is a no go. Having used TL for years in the automotive field, taught me what TL can and cannot be used for.
1. 99% of TL is acid based and not designed for plastics. There are aerospace grade plastic compatible TL's but not available to the general public. Regular TL is expensive quantity wise. The Aerospace grade stuff is much too expensive and only sold in large quantities. Not practical.
2. TL cures when oxygen is removed, when the threads are locked and tight. Plastics tend to be porous and this negates the curing process to some extent, but more importantly the acid soaks into the plastic and makes it brittle.
I don’t think it’s a sealant. It lubes the threads so you can get a fitting tighter. The actual threads of a pipe are what make a seal.
I agree with you.
But many feel it is a sealant. And any good plummer knows that it is not used specifically for that purpose. Some use as a band-aid to seal. And it may work most of the time on a defective leaking joint depending...Wikipedia can be lame sometimes. tef Tape became a do it all item in tool boxes everywhere. I am guilty of that. But real plummers don't generally use it on new fittings. Shouldn't require it.
I've used Tef. Tape on worn balls and ball cups with great success. I place a tiny square of tape on the ball and pop on the cup. 1/10 Racers were doing that at the track many years ago.
 
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It wil prob eat the plastic.. Better to use superglue
For that matter you can also use a 2 part epoxy. ( JB Weld ) Yet we never consider the disassembly of the Pillow ball from the arms. Until that time comes due to a broken arm.
Remember, CA is also an acid and tends to be permanent most of the time.
Use E6000/ShoeGoo or any RTV. Just the right amount should allow for disassembly.
I was never a fan of CA on any threads unless I was looking for a permanent undoable fix. In RC this is not an option for me.
 
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I’ve done the starbond glue on the arms and that worked really well. Teflon tape on the pillow ball works great. Bash on brother. ??
 
General question: Has this been an issue on prior versions of the Kraton? Or other platforms? Given that ARRMA has made improvements over the various generations, it seems weird to me that this would appear on V4 but not earlier, unless they altered that part of the design for V4. And if it appeared earlier, why is it still an unaddressed issue?

PS My test of ptfe tape on the pillow ball threads was interrupted by something else falling off. Lower right front hub nut, which holds the hub carrier onto the pillow ball, is now in a field somewhere. I only had about 5-7 minutes run time before I noticed that I lost my nut*, but it looks successful so far.

*Make of that what you will.
 
With all the options stated above, why have we determined "cross threading" the PB to the arms is an acceptable option?
Not.(n)(n)(n)
I don't think I will explain why. It should be obvious for several reasons. I will take that as a joke and move on.
PB' s pulling out and PB lock nuts backing out has been a nuisance for all versions. That V4 red locknut with the O-ring hasn't improved anything. The o-ring is too thin and is placed at the end of the threads. It's done all wrong. Hence the continued issues. These are design flaws that Arrma better address. But I get it, aftermarket support is supposed to pick up the slack.
For me personally, I was never a fan of Pillow ball suspensions. In any kit. TLR have a better PB design. Picture yourself racing and you DNF because your PB suspension comes apart. Team Drivers would never accept that. Should we as bashers accept that.
Absolutely Not!
And we are dealing with it here all the time. Time to go aftermarket. And that is costly to remedy these issues.
 
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General question: Has this been an issue on prior versions of the Kraton? Or other platforms? Given that ARRMA has made improvements over the various generations, it seems weird to me that this would appear on V4 but not earlier, unless they altered that part of the design for V4. And if it appeared earlier, why is it still an unaddressed issue?

PS My test of ptfe tape on the pillow ball threads was interrupted by something else falling off. Lower right front hub nut, which holds the hub carrier onto the pillow ball, is now in a field somewhere. I only had about 5-7 minutes run time before I noticed that I lost my nut*, but it looks successful so far.

*Make of that what you will.
5-7minutes isn’t a marathon but it’s far from a minute man ?
 
Buy the hot racing pillow ball covers in your problems will be solved. Or, you know, just check them after every run and tighten as needed ?
 
Stuff backs out. I fixed the issue on my Kraton with 4 drops of glue. No RC is immune to this kinda stuff. Jeez, people.
 
With all the options stated above, why have we determined "cross threading" the PB to the arms is an acceptable option?
Not.(n)(n)(n)
I don't think I will explain why. It should be obvious for several reasons. I will take that as a joke and move on.
PB' s pulling out and PB lock nuts backing out has been a nuisance for all versions. That V4 red locknut with the O-ring hasn't improved anything. The o-ring is too thin and is placed at the end of the threads. It's done all wrong. Hence the continued issues. These are design flaws that Arrma better address. But I get it, aftermarket support is supposed to pick up the slack.
For me personally, I was never a fan of Pillow ball suspensions. In any kit. TLR have a better PB design. Picture yourself racing and you DNF because your PB suspension comes apart. Team Drivers would never accept that. Should we as bashers accept that.
Absolutely Not!
And we are dealing with it here all the time. Time to go aftermarket. And that is costly to remedy these issues.
Stuff backs out. I fixed the issue on my Kraton with 4 drops of glue. No RC is immune to this kinda stuff. Jeez, people.
It always appears that glue is the answer to everything that is defective or broken. LOL
Threads seem to be okay. Thanks for tip though I was aware of threadlocker doing that. Is the fork washer necessary?
That depends on how you like your wheel alignment. It is not necessary however. It merely shims out your camber/caster depending where you place them.
I understand Loctite is bad for plastics.
TL is acidic. If we know that it is not appropriate for plastic, why use it.
E6000 all the way....
E6000 AKA "Shoe Goo" should be in every RC tool box. Can buy it anywhere. Even Home Depot.
I removed both the top and bottom spacers, added a bit of CA glue to the threads before threading it in, and I haven't had issues with that.

Now the hub nuts...I've been losing those like crazy no matter what I do.
E6000 adhesive. Just make sure the pre-load is correct before the E6000 dries. If you attempt to change the preload after drying, you have to repeat the process all over again. Then it gets messy. E6000 can be daunting to clean up. Especially in these specific areas. And make absolutely sure No E6000 gets near the PB's rotating surface. A dab will do ya. That's all you need.
 
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Ok. I’m going to cross thread them. I have lots of spares if it goes south. Lol.
Cross threading will alter the PB angle at the Arms to some extent. Perhaps some don't mind, but I am a purist and feel it matters.
I don't "intentionally" cross thread ANYTHING.
 
Cross threading will alter the PB angle at the Arms to some extent. Perhaps some don't mind, but I am a purist and feel it matters.
I don't "intentionally" cross thread ANYTHING.
I was joking. I applied some urethane on the threads. I’ll know this weekend how it worked.
 
The teflon tape, while being slippery, still makes the threads thicker and taller than what they are going into, so it binds, which is what keeps it where you put it vs backing out on it's own. It just conforms to the threads. Anything you jam in the threads makes it bind, piece of wire, scotch tape, duct tape, whatever, but teflon is easy to apply and conforms well to the threads.

I suppose if you were careful, you could just as easily drill a hole in the side of the carrier and thread/tap, then put a set screw in to hold the pivot ball cap in place.

I'll stick with the telfon tape. Has been holding fine for about a year now on my outcast.
 
General question: Has this been an issue on prior versions of the Kraton? Or other platforms? Given that ARRMA has made improvements over the various generations, it seems weird to me that this would appear on V4 but not earlier, unless they altered that part of the design for V4. And if it appeared earlier, why is it still an unaddressed issue?

I recently acquired a new V3. Same problem after a few laps on the track.
 
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