Kraton Kraton V3 Gear Box Upgrade Questions

[Firemedic]

Good Morning!

Now onto my 3rd thread..So as some know I smoked my Kraton into an all-brick mailbox. This could be the best thing that's happened, as it's forcing me to take it all down for damage assessment. So far the front gearbox case is damaged. The internals seem to work, however, at this point is there a recommended upgrade for gears and oil? I'm looking at replacing the box with an HR aluminum. The center diff seems to be damaged, as it grinds when spinning. Now I haven't gotten into taking it apart yet. I know the chassis is bent pretty badly which could be the cause of the grind, however, most likely I'm sure the gears are shot. Recommends on gears and center diff oil? I see I can buy a fully assembled aluminum differential housing for $70. The spur and pinion look to be intact as I can't find any damaged teeth. Now it's been about 35 years since I've been involved in R/C, and man has technology changed. If memory serves me correctly doesn't a larger spur and smaller pinon make speed? Last, I really don't do hard bashing other than my mailbox. I mostly rip it through mowed fields and streets with the occasional dirt construction site. I know a lot of this is trial and error, I've seen a hundred conflicting YouTube videos, therefore, looking for input from you guys, as everyone here seems on top of the game. Any and all input is greatly appreciated.

 

[SrC]

We all been through the same carnage. You are not alone.
Those mail boxes tend to get in the way sometimes.
I think your best place to shop for all the parts is JennysRC.com. How most of us do it .
Consider an "EXB Chassis" from JennysRC at this point.
Buy the "EXB Basher Front Bumper" to spare you better with your next Mail box encounter.
A whole Bulkhead and diff comes as an assy. Much cheaper this way, from Jennys RC. But absolutely fill the diffs up. Stockers are always low on oil, anyway.
I run 60k Fr/500k center/20-30K Rr in my diffs. Rig will liven up. More efficient power transfer results for fast Bashing. Stock oils are only 10k/100k/10k. (too thin)
I personally would pass on Metal diff Bulkheads. Plastic is fine and are cheap. And it did its job preventing further chassis damage. A Front sacrificial part. Start dissassembly and make sure you replace any questional parts. Make a list for Jennys. Send us pix if you are not sure.
Get some Carbon Fiber tubing to sleeve over the Tower to Tower Brace. Will not bend this way. Check yours, it might be bent also. Jenny's has it for like $3.-4.00.

Everything you need should be here. Arrma Retail pricing gets quite exensive. JennysRC is a kit breaker, dismantling New ones and selling off the the parts in assemblies. Some ideas below. Some items may be needed as retail from Arrma. IDK what parts you exactly will need. Only a tear down will reveal this.

https://jennysrc.com/collections/arrma-kraton-6s-blx-ara8608v5

https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...se-lwb-arrma-ara106053?variant=32623012249654

https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...ry-tray-roll-tower-2020-mount-arrma-ara106053

Good luck.

 

[Firemedic]

We all been through the same carnage. You are not alone.
Those mail boxes tend to get in the way sometimes.
I think your best place to shop for all the parts is JennysRC.com. How most of us do it .
Consider an "EXB Chassis" from JennysRC at this point.
Buy the "EXB Basher Front Bumper" to spare you better with your next Mail box encounter.
A whole Bulkhead and diff comes as an assy. Much cheaper this way, from Jennys RC. But absolutely fill the diffs up. Stockers are always low on oil, anyway.
I run 60k Fr/500k center/20-30K Rr in my diffs. Rig will liven up. More efficient power transfer results for fast Bashing. Stock oils are only 10k/100k/10k. (too thin)
I personally would pass on Metal diff Bulkheads. Plastic is fine and are cheap. And it did its job preventing further chassis damage. A Front sacrificial part. Start dissassembly and make sure you replace any questional parts. Make a list for Jennys. Send us pix if you are not sure.
Get some Carbon Fiber tubing to sleeve over the Tower to Tower Brace. Will not bend this way. Check yours, it might be bent also. Jenny's has it for like $3.-4.00.

Everything you need should be here. Arrma Retail pricing gets quite exensive. JennysRC is a kit breaker, dismantling New ones and selling off the the parts in assemblies. Some ideas below. Some items may be needed as retail from Arrma. IDK what parts you exactly will need. Only a tear down will reveal this.

https://jennysrc.com/collections/arrma-kraton-6s-blx-ara8608v5

https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...se-lwb-arrma-ara106053?variant=32623012249654

https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...ry-tray-roll-tower-2020-mount-arrma-ara106053

We all been through the same carnage. You are not alone.
Those mail boxes tend to get in the way sometimes.
I think your best place to shop for all the parts is JennysRC.com. How most of us do it .
Consider an "EXB Chassis" from JennysRC at this point.
Buy the "EXB Basher Front Bumper" to spare you better with your next Mail box encounter.
A whole Bulkhead and diff comes as an assy. Much cheaper this way, from Jennys RC. But absolutely fill the diffs up. Stockers are always low on oil, anyway.
I run 60k Fr/500k center/20-30K Rr in my diffs. Rig will liven up. More efficient power transfer results for fast Bashing. Stock oils are only 10k/100k/10k. (too thin)
I personally would pass on Metal diff Bulkheads. Plastic is fine and are cheap. And it did its job preventing further chassis damage. A Front sacrificial part. Start dissassembly and make sure you replace any questional parts. Make a list for Jennys. Send us pix if you are not sure.
Get some Carbon Fiber tubing to sleeve over the Tower to Tower Brace. Will not bend this way. Check yours, it might be bent also. Jenny's has it for like $3.-4.00.

Everything you need should be here. Arrma Retail pricing gets quite exensive. JennysRC is a kit breaker, dismantling New ones and selling off the the parts in assemblies. Some ideas below. Some items may be needed as retail from Arrma. IDK what parts you exactly will need. Only a tear down will reveal this.

https://jennysrc.com/collections/arrma-kraton-6s-blx-ara8608v5

https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...se-lwb-arrma-ara106053?variant=32623012249654

https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...ry-tray-roll-tower-2020-mount-arrma-ara106053

Good luck.

I ordered an M2C chassis yesterday. So sticking with the stock gear box is recommended? How about adding M2C shock towers and front steering plate cover? I was looking at adding the M2C beefier drive shafts, as my front is bent to a "v". Last what grease do you guys like for the diff gears as mine is open. Any brand of silicone oil that you recommend?

 

[Firemedic]

Is there a difference with the Armma "Fireteam" fully assembled center diff 50T vs the EXB LSD 50T? Running Kraton 6s v3. Hobby shop guy insisted that I buy the EXB #ARA310991. Also for the center drive shafts I believe lengths are 112mm (front) and 134mm(rear)?

Is there a difference with the Armma "Fireteam" fully assembled center diff 50T vs the EXB LSD 50T? Running Kraton 6s v3. Hobby shop guy insisted that I buy the EXB #ARA310991. Also for the center drive shafts I believe lengths are 112mm (front) and 134mm(rear)?

Ok, so I see the EXB is 29mm and the Fireteam is 31mm. If I used the EXB looks as though driveshaft diameter changes vs stock. I read horror stories on LSD. Pros and cons between them? You guys are the best that for taking the time as I relearn the new R/C world

 

[Jluther@becoinc]

Is there a difference with the Armma "Fireteam" fully assembled center diff 50T vs the EXB LSD 50T? Running Kraton 6s v3. Hobby shop guy insisted that I buy the EXB #ARA310991. Also for the center drive shafts I believe lengths are 112mm (front) and 134mm(rear)?

View attachment 303832

View attachment 303833

Ok, so I see the EXB is 29mm and the Fireteam is 31mm. If I used the EXB looks as though driveshaft diameter changes vs stock. I read horror stories on LSD. Pros and cons between them? You guys are the best that for taking the time as I relearn the new R/C world

I would get the metal one from Jenny’s. All Arrma 6s shafts are the same size. The ones from M2C are definitely worth the money. I’ve had some trees jump in front of me that tore a lot of parts up and those shafts are still straight. Anything M2C is great.
Put 500k in that metal diff. I really like the EXB diffs in front and rear but to me the center don’t really matter. Just my experience. Metal won’t get cut with rocks and debris either

 

[Firemedic]

Did you get the extra beefy M2C shafts or their standard?

 

[Jluther@becoinc]

Did you get the extra beefy M2C shafts or their standard?

The ones I got are 6.5-7 mm thick in the middle. I’ll have to check M2C to see if they make a size bigger. I don’t recall seeing extra beefy. I haven’t bent one yet. I used to bend the stock ones quite often

 

[SrC]

I ordered an M2C chassis yesterday. So sticking with the stock gear box is recommended? How about adding M2C shock towers and front steering plate cover? I was looking at adding the M2C beefier drive shafts, as my front is bent to a "v". Last what grease do you guys like for the diff gears as mine is open. Any brand of silicone oil that you recommend?

Any brand of silicone oil will work. Are all the same anyway. Just Silcone oil. Some brands just cost more for the Quantity you get. Just choose the correct CST of the oil. I usually reach for TA , Losi. More Widely available in the CST's I want.
Dam you can spend another $2K in all upgrade parts, replacing amost every single OE part! Not neccessary 99% of the time. Usually ending up with a very heavy platform that will break more easily. And the M2C chassis for a SWB platform may be overkill IMHO. Adding a good amount of needless weight in the process. M2C made a machined cut out, lighter SWB version. Not sure if still available. Would be my first M2C choice. Otherwise the stocker V5 chassis or the TLRT or even the EXB version is just fine, for less coin. The Typhon SWB chassis' rarely bend if you just run Alloy upgrade Fr and Rr braces alone All you really need.
Any Automotive type NLGI rated grease is fine for the Diff's Main gears.
Seems you are reaching for "Beefier parts" for no apparent reason except than they are available. And the next guy did it. Many of the stock parts are very good. And Very cheap to replace.
Don't think that replacing with all the many available alloy $upgrades$ will make it any more bullet proof. Some are beneficial , yet many are not even warranted. Except for looks at the sacrifice of much added weight. Keep your Typhon as light as possible
Baby steps.
My spin.

 

[Dan B.]

If memory serves me correctly doesn't a larger spur and smaller pinon make speed?

Nope, that’s backwards. Smaller spur, more speed. Bigger pinion, more speed.
Enjoy the build, man!