Kraton Kraton v3 in house, some feedback

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Zdzislaw

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It's been a week I've got Kraton v3 - got some initial thoughts on this truck I want to share - hopefully it will help others as I've encountered some 'unexpected' things.

I'm not a new in RC, got Traxxas Erevo and as I'm mostly into speed monster trucks - and not really interested in a differnt kind of vehicles - I had to try out Kraton :)

So:

1)
My 4y old kid helped me to unpack and set-up the truck (preety excited ;)) - we've connected battery quickly and slowly run across the room to check if it works. Indeed the sound of metal gears was beautiful - but then wanted to properly wire the battery cables so turned off the radio - and truck (as it was still on) with max acceleration went backwards! Smashed into a door - hopefylly kid was not harmed but come on it was close!

You need to reprogram failsave for idle throttle settings (manual is murky about - only procedure depicted) - I have no idea why factory setting was max backwards but it's a very serious flaw in my opinion and ARRMA really should take care about this.

Of course it was not smart turning radio off first (manual says turn off car first) but it still might happen as batteries could be almost dead or radio just can fail - as every other electronic component. Or signal might be lost for some other reasons. And then you have 5kg car running into somebody in worst case, unstoppable. Very dangerous!!!!

2)
Funny thing - in contrary what manual says default settings for battery is NiMh! Good I've lost confidence into any factory settings after encountering failsave issue - thus my Lipos are still alive. Better run first few rides with buzzer to be sure what your settings really are.

3)
Gear meash - was definitely too loose out of factory, had to set it right. Then noticed pinion is not centered horizontally - wanted to move it a little bit, but hey! it's glued on RED loctite :) Devastated aluminum motor mount with pliers but it still got stuck at some point, then in desperation got idea of using soldering iron to heat it up - and finally it worked out.
All that with unmounting and remounting motor took me few hours so be aware!

4)
Reverse problem - see on this forum others were confused as well, going backwards not always works. In case truck stops without braking you need to double tap reverse to let it go backwards. It's expected for FWD/BRK/REAR setting however other trucks might go in reverse a bit different way (directly without additional tap) - the cause is Kraton do not have stability control system like Traxxas TSM or Losi AVC - the systems are based on a gyroscope - so ESC electronics know if truck is stopped at given moment.
Kraton ESC doesn't know that - and assumes maybe truck is rolling down from a hill or still runs with its momentum - so in any case you have to brake first, then you're allowed to go backwards

Now time to bash :)
 
the factory should have better QA. But this is why you should never just plug in even an RTR without testing it with wheels off the ground first. They should probably add a warning card to perform some tests first. Especially for 6s capable kits.

I haven't tested my failsafe setting. Need to do that.

2) I did not have issue of ESC set to NiMh. It hits LVC on my 6s and batteries settle at about 3.4v/c as intended. Though to me that's too low. I prefer 3.7 min but ESC is not programmable.

3) Lesson learned. You should always heat loctite point for motor pinions. If the pinion itself was loctited (and not just the set screw), that is green loctite. It is a must to heat it up to release green.

4) Thanks for that info. I was wondering why sometimes I could immediately reverse and other times had to double tap it.
 
A small pen torch is a lot more practical (& cooler!) than a soldering iron with loctite problems etc.
 
1)
Yeah, some leaflet about initial settings and tests should be there - but I guess it clash with RTR idea :/
Agree QA could be better.

2)
About Nimh settings - looks like ARRMA got already some reports on that: 'it is suggested that you verify that the battery mode has not been inadvertently set to NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) mode instead of LiPo':
http://manuals.hobbico.com/ara/aram2000-tech.pdf
So, you never know :)

3)
Actually it's shaft under pinion for its full length covered with __RED__ loctite. For sure it's solid :) - but I could argue if it's right application of RED the strongest loctite - which is intented only for threads not a surfaces.

Nevertheless of the problems the truck is awsome!!!
 
Regarding the failsafe, I could be completely wrong here but I don't think this is an error, I imagine it's deliberately set like that. With Rev/Brake/Fwd set up. So if you going forward at speed the failsafe is brake, rather than neutral. (much safer in most circumstances, even at neutral if you're flat out on 6s it's going to carry on quite a distance with no break) as you have to release the throttle and press it again to get reverse it wouldnt normally fly backwards if it drops to failsafe mode. However as you've stated this is an issue if you're driving around at very low speed (In fairness you're not usually going to drive a Kraton around your house!) or that much at very low speed. It does mean it's an issue if you actually turn the transmitter off before the car if it's stationary though.
 
Regarding the failsafe, I could be completely wrong here but I don't think this is an error, I imagine it's deliberately set like that. With Rev/Brake/Fwd set up. So if you going forward at speed the failsafe is brake, rather than neutral. (much safer in most circumstances, even at neutral if you're flat out on 6s it's going to carry on quite a distance with no break) as you have to release the throttle and press it again to get reverse it wouldnt normally fly backwards if it drops to failsafe mode. However as you've stated this is an issue if you're driving around at very low speed (In fairness you're not usually going to drive a Kraton around your house!) or that much at very low speed. It does mean it's an issue if you actually turn the transmitter off before the car if it's stationary though.

Neutral throttle with some left or right steering would sound best? Cuts power and travels in a circle.
 
Pickles - that's interesting idea. And setting it to go in circles also seems sensible.
However all car RCs I've ride so far in such cases were just effectively cut-off with power. Here it goes full - into reverse. I prefer it idle.
Next time I would have transmitter outside will check out it it actually brakes like in your scenario - don't trust the ESC :)
 
personally I would not want negative throttle failsafe. Most common Tx loss is probably when you cut Tx off before truck by accident. That would mean taking off in reverse.
 
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