kraton v5 6s center diff play

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Djhammy

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
so, I noticed there was play in center diff where cups go in, more sloppy at front side but this is not normal right? this is all new to me as i haven't had to dig into a diff yet

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so, I noticed there was play in center diff where cups go in, more sloppy at front side but this is not normal right? this is all new to me as i haven't had to dig into a diff yet

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If the front or top in the photo is sloppy feeling you might have melted the diff case where the metal piece goes into the plastic case. If this is the case I recommend upgrading to a aluminum diff case.
Edit- I've melted the center plastic case many times before I just got a aluminum case that is able to handle the heat.
 
If the front or top in the photo is sloppy feeling you might have melted the diff case where the metal piece goes into the plastic case. If this is the case I recommend upgrading to a aluminum diff case.
Edit- I've melted the center plastic case many times before I just got a aluminum case that is able to handle the heat.
great advice, i didnt think there was plastic, but yea top of pic/front facing is pretty wobbley. and good advice, i was looking at the arrma aluminum one with 200k... im gonna have to name my rig as it is getting costly like my kids, lol.
my dog bone rods are wore down too...prob gonna replace them too now...aghhh
 

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There is a metal piece that is a part of the stock plastic case that has separated. (Not the output shaft) That's why it has the play. Really you only need a new case and if you check the internals and they are in good shape I'd just transfer them to a aluminum case and put some fresh oil in it. I use the Arrma aluminum case because of the gaskets being readily available for replacements.
 
There is a metal piece that is a part of the stock plastic case that has separated. That's why it has the play. Really you only need a new case and if you check the internals and they are in good shape I'd just transfer them to a aluminum case and put some fresh oil in it. I use the Arrma aluminum case because of the gaskets being readily available for replacements.
i don't tust my self rebuilding my first one, lol.
i was looking at this assembled one in pic, plus i should get the hr center aluminum support too

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You could... But it would possibly save you money to rebuild it yourself and then you can get some experience of working with the moving critical parts of your rig. They are pretty straight forward to work on and you have us here at Arrma forum to help you out if you need it! https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/metal-diff-case/ARA220050.html
thats awesome..Thanks alot! ill still get the assembled aluminum one but yea ill tink on the bad one to figure them out and get familiar, make it a spare.
 
While the price isn't horrible ($23 for a metal diff case, $27 for a diff from Jenny's + 5 shipping) and a buck for diff fluid, you're better off doing it yourself and learning how to build and shim diffs.
 
@Djhammy

I shim my outdrives to remove slop and excessive movement. I have metal diffs on Kraton, Typhon, Infraction, etc and even with those, I shim the outdrive slop still does appear with those also.

My belief most cases it has no effect if minimal but there are some rigs like the Kraton EXB LSD diffs and Losi DB Pro where this movement of the outdrive also moves the crown gear a few mm too much. In the case with my Kraton, was not a good outcome until I removed the outdrive slop for the crown gear.

Really comes down to studying and learning your rig.

These work great to shim the from the outside and rest perfectly on the inside bearing race:
https://trbrc.com/trb-rc-m8x10mm-dia-steel-shim-pack-10ea-0-1-0-2-0-3-0-5mm-width/
 
I agree that learning to wrench on your rigs is a vital part of the hobby, and we are always willing to help guide people here on the arrma forum, also YouTube can become a great asset as well just search for anything and you usually can find someone who has done it, fixed it, or is struggling with it also. 😂 lol….
but good luck either way, and welcome to the forum
 
def notice that thick consistancy that the center aluminum diff with 200k diff fluide has. i watched a youtube vid on changing fluide, so i pulled out my front diff, drained it out and put in a 50/50 mix of 10k and 100k, safe to say outcome is 50k or somthin?
 
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