Kraton kraton v5 steering sucks all known fixes tried?

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atomos319

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Arrma RC's
  1. Infraction
  2. Kraton 6s
  3. Senton 6s
Long story short, this thing has a wider turning radius than my wife's suv. can't even turn around on the street unless 1. I rotate the rear, 2. I do a three point turn, or 3. I turn at a crawl-like speed.

I am running a new savox 1210 sg @ 7.4; have tried righting the servo saver with c clips, end point adjustments don't seem to effect turning speed, and yes speed is at 100 (using a dx5c). Running backflips.

Any suggestions? Ironically my kraton 8s turns on a dime (hitech 845wp)
 
With servo disconnected do the front wheels turn side to side freely without any resistance? I was having alot of trouble with steering on mine for the longest time and realized that I was having some binding issues at the connection points on the ackerman bar. Just a thought to check for free movement.
 
Some times the pillar ball settings will self tighten. All in all the steering of the kraton at its best is less than fantastic.
 
stop putting 500 billion wt oil in your diffs.

obviously I'm exaggerating, but hopefully the point is clear.
 
Last edited:
Check your wheel alignment. Adding more toe out in the front will make it turn better. Also if your diff oils are to heavy , it will will want to go straight and not turn at speed. For turning the lightest oil in the diff works best. Also keep the rear oil lighter than the front.
 
I agree with everything soppy said. I'm running alot of toe out and it turns great and is more controllable on drift. More throttle always helps it turn too.
 
Your steering rack bit that ties the bell racks together could be well bent (ours was) and it results in excessive toe out (kraton already comes with a bit of toe out). It also causes severe binding in the steering mechanism that will lead to premature servo failure. Excessive toe out will worsen your turning radius, lower your too speed and make the car overall crappy to drive.
If your plate is bent, remove it, remove the bushings, don't lose the small washers, and go find the most precision tool you have in your your toolbox. A hammer. Put the rack on a strong flat surface and smack the hell out of it until it is nice and flat again. Reinstall. Order stronger rack to install the next time it bends. Because there will be a next time.
 
Summitp said:
Your steering rack bit that ties the bell racks together could be well bent (ours was) and it results in excessive toe out (kraton already comes with a bit of toe out). It also causes severe binding in the steering mechanism that will lead to premature servo failure. Excessive toe out will worsen your turning radius, lower your too speed and make the car overall crappy to drive.
If your plate is bent, remove it, remove the bushings, don't lose the small washers, and go find the most precision tool you have in your your toolbox. A hammer. Put the rack on a strong flat surface and smack the hell out of it until it is nice and flat again. Reinstall. Order stronger rack to install the next time it bends. Because there will be a next time.
Click to expand...
I think you are referring to the Ackermann plate right?
 
Do baby steps and figure out what is happening before adding or changing. I assume you have stock diff fluids or steering will get worse unless you do it right.

Place your rig on a carpet surface. While at it, are your tires slightly toe out and even (in front)?

All trims and speed to neutral.
Turn your steering and watch what happens.
Is the servo moving but wheels are not? Is the servo saver matching the servo travel?
If both servo and saver match, check for binding in steering, that includes the balls. Also check if Ackerman plate is straight.
If all the above is ok ,you need a stronger servo, else fix it before you move on.

Stock servo is a 15kh (kilogram) servo, you want a 35kg. Plenty of discussions on servos but stay away from Savox, there are better and more cost effective solutions. Just my opinion.
 
atomos319 said:
Long story short, this thing has a wider turning radius than my wife's suv. can't even turn around on the street unless 1. I rotate the rear, 2. I do a three point turn, or 3. I turn at a crawl-like speed.

I am running a new savox 1210 sg @ 7.4; have tried righting the servo saver with c clips, end point adjustments don't seem to effect turning speed, and yes speed is at 100 (using a dx5c). Running backflips.

Any suggestions? Ironically my kraton 8s turns on a dime (hitech 845wp)
Click to expand...

That was the first thing I noticed about my Kraton 6S v5 too, the turning radius is like a schoolbus. There's no point in proportional steering on the transmitter because during turning the wheel is always at full lock and I steer using the throttle.

I added clips to the servo saver spring which made a noticeable difference, but my Kraton still has the worst steering out of all my trucks. Even my X-Maxx has better steering.
 
Geodude074 said:
That was the first thing I noticed about my Kraton 6S v5 too, the turning radius is like a schoolbus. There's no point in proportional steering on the transmitter because during turning the wheel is always at full lock and I steer using the throttle.

I added clips to the servo saver spring which made a noticeable difference, but my Kraton still has the worst steering out of all my trucks. Even my X-Maxx has better steering.
Click to expand...

Yeah, my truck required a new aluminum servo mount, 35kg servo (new horn too), and at least 3 clips on the servo saver to get adequate turning on grass on throttle. Some backflips and maybe playing with the diff fluid weight will get it on a dime. Maybe thicker sway bars too.

It's not an issue on 4S (honestly my 4S battery was a waste of money haha) or bashing, but on grass or 6S full throttle the damn thing just can't turn. But it's not a SCT or Buggy I suppose.
 
I have never touched the diff fluid and the wheels turn easy. I already have a savox 1210 and back flips. I will try adjusting the toe and the hr servo saver and stiffer spring
 
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