Kraton kraton v5 steering sucks all known fixes tried?

[Swede]

Too bad so many seem to have problems of different kind, we must be Really lucky! Our Kraton EXB have ZERO problem. Everything was included in the box as i should (motor mount, screws etc) Zero diff problems, turning very well with a Savöx 1210sg (no bec, 6v). Its perfect!
Only thing is the red loctite thats damn near crazy.

Hope you guys get it sorted ❤

 

[sroy]

Long story short, this thing has a wider turning radius than my wife's suv. can't even turn around on the street unless 1. I rotate the rear, 2. I do a three point turn, or 3. I turn at a crawl-like speed.

I am running a new savox 1210 sg @ 7.4; have tried righting the servo saver with c clips, end point adjustments don't seem to effect turning speed, and yes speed is at 100 (using a dx5c). Running backflips.

Any suggestions? Ironically my kraton 8s turns on a dime (hitech 845wp)

I had the same issu as well with my 6s V5. I fixed my problem by replacing all the steering components with Hot Racing (which uses bearings instead of collars). At low speeds it turns on a dime

 

[Lbizzle]

I found on all 6s rigs there is a major problem arrma missed. The steering rack hits the front diff. If you try to get full lock, which I mean the pillow block maxing out. You can’t get it because the steering rack is hitting the top of the diff. I fix it by shaving down the arms on the rack. (See pictures) Its a little bit of a pain in the a** but you can do it if you take your time. I haven’t done it to my new rig which is a v5 typhon with the safe d crap on the drive cup. I think it might hit that now also. Not 100% tho.

 

[Sargent_Horse]

I found on all 6s rigs there is a major problem arrma missed. The steering rack hits the front diff. If you try to get full lock, which I mean the pillow block maxing out. You can’t get it because the steering rack is hitting the top of the diff. I fix it by shaving down the arms on the rack. (See pictures) Its a little bit of a pain in the a** but you can do it if you take your time. I haven’t done it to my new rig which is a v5 typhon with the safe d crap on the drive cup. I think it might hit that now also. Not 100% tho.

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I just made a thread about this. I fixed it by tightening down the chassis post that hold the steering assembly, but the tolerance is still really really close. If this Ackermann plate bends, I won't be getting another OEM one to see if that gives it more room.

 

[sroy]

I just made a thread about this. I fixed it by tightening down the chassis post that hold the steering assembly, but the tolerance is still really really close. If this Ackermann plate bends, I won't be getting another OEM one to see if that gives it more room.

That’s why I went to all HRing aluminum. It wasn’t that much and it works perfectly

 

[BurninTrees]

I have a V1 Kraton with a JX 46kg servo with the adjustable servo saver that keeps loosening on its own that is annoying but works well when it's tight. I just installed the HR adjustable SS tube on my Kraton EXB with a ProTek 370 servo along with the HR SS servo linkage and it turns pretty well but I still do some steering with throttle. I plan on picking up the other HR steering parts along with replacing the bushings with bearings.

 

[CameronCodes]

Too bad so many seem to have problems of different kind, we must be Really lucky! Our Kraton EXB have ZERO problem. Everything was included in the box as i should (motor mount, screws etc) Zero diff problems, turning very well with a Savöx 1210sg (no bec, 6v). Its perfect!
Only thing is the red loctite thats damn near crazy.

Hope you guys get it sorted ❤

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Have you tried turning it off and then back on again?

 

[BurninTrees]

Have you tried turning it off and then back on again?

Don't do this. If it's working, don't reboot it.

 

[Lukas412]

That’s why I went to all HRing aluminum. It wasn’t that much and it works perfectly

I have the hot racing stuff and mine still hits the bulkhead as mentioned by @Lbizzle I sanded down the bulkhead a bit.

 

[arrmaFan901]

That’s why I went to all HRing aluminum. It wasn’t that much and it works perfectly

Got a part list? All I can find is the bell crank this servo saver spring on my v5 6s sucks even with stock servo

 

[sroy]

Got a part list? All I can find is the bell crank this servo saver spring on my v5 6s sucks even with stock servo

Go look at my Kraton 6s roller build. All the parts are listed there

 

[BurninTrees]

Hot Racing Servo Mount - HRAAON24M02

Hot Racing Arrma Kraton Servo Saver Tube w/Clamping Nut Set (Red) - HRAAON48A02

Hot Racing Arrma Kraton Aluminum Bearing Steering Bellcrank Set - HRAAON4801

Hot Racing Arrma Kraton Aluminum Servo Horn and Link - AON48SH25

 

[jlatimore3]

For those that also have the Talion, does it have the same turn radius as the Kraton, or is it tighter due to tires and smaller shock towers?

 

[Ruzty1311]

I had the same issu as well with my 6s V5. I fixed my problem by replacing all the steering components with Hot Racing (which uses bearings instead of collars). At low speeds it turns on a dime

I did the same thing and man it turns so sharp!!

I have another one to install on my Notorious. Now THAT thing turns like a bus lol

 

[jkflow]

Under full power it's turning like a bus but you have to slow down and it snaps. Diff fluids play a large role as well and your servo saver. The towers not so much. Go to 20-30k in the rear.

 

[jlatimore3]

Under full power it's turning like a bus but you have to slow down and it snaps. Diff fluids play a large role as well and your servo saver. The towers not so much. Go to 20-30k in the rear.

i'll have to try that and the other HR upgrades. I'm running stock and I added the clips to tighten the spring, I have a powerhd servo, hr servo saver and arm, hr servo mount, and still takes a big turn. If I slow down I can whip it around easy, but would rather be able to turn on throttle.

 

[jkflow]

The HR upgrades will do nothing for your steering radius.

Keep in mind the scale speed you are doing 50mph*8 = 400mph, you simply can't turn that fast
Servo saver is probably eating most of it and that is your best bet. There is a lot of power at play and you will simply flip over and learn to slow down eventually.

 

[Monster Dork]

You could try moving to the rearmost holes on your Ackermann plate. It'll change the way the wheels are pushed into the corner. If the setting isn't ideal, one wheel will drag while the other tracks. Ideally, they both should track without drag. We don't have a lot of control over this dynamic, but we do have two options with the stock plate.
https://www.rcdriver.com/tune-with-ackermann/

 

[nyev]

That’s why I went to all HRing aluminum. It wasn’t that much and it works perfectly

With all Hot Racing the HR bellcrank still hits the HR gearbox; at least it did for me on my Kraton EXB. I switched back to a stock bellcrank. It appears Arrma now has molded out a tiny chunk of plastic from the bellcrank exactly where the binding happens. It actually looks like a defective chipped plastic part unless you look at it very closely, and you realize it is supposed to be like that. I had thought about dremelling down my HR bellcrank but thought it was too close to the nut and figured I'd risk not getting it right. Couldn't be bothered so went back to stock. I also had a thread about this issue (with photos) from a few weeks back).

I installed the two extra c-clips to the servo saver (what a pain to install.....), I have a Futaba steering servo (which is great but not waterproof), and my Kraton turns on the dime at low speed. I also have a m2c servo horn and ackerman, and have the BEC voltage set to 7.4V, and tossed the bushings in favor of Avid bearings.

A good test is if you push the front end of your rig down all the way, hard, and try steering. On my rig it still steers the same when doing this.

 

[jlatimore3]

With all Hot Racing the HR bellcrank still hits the HR gearbox; at least it did for me on my Kraton EXB. I switched back to a stock bellcrank. It appears Arrma now has molded out a tiny chunk of plastic from the bellcrank exactly where the binding happens. It actually looks like a defective chipped plastic part unless you look at it very closely, and you realize it is supposed to be like that. I had thought about dremelling down my HR bellcrank but thought it was too close to the nut and figured I'd risk not getting it right. Couldn't be bothered so went back to stock. I also had a thread about this issue (with photos) from a few weeks back).

I installed the two extra c-clips to the servo saver (what a pain to install.....), I have a Futaba steering servo (which is great but not waterproof), and my Kraton turns on the dime at low speed. I also have a m2c servo horn and ackerman, and have the BEC voltage set to 7.4V, and tossed the bushings in favor of Avid bearings.

A good test is if you push the front end of your rig down all the way, hard, and try steering. On my rig it still steers the same when doing this.

thanks. So when it's up on the bench, it turns in both directions fully. When on the ground, it turns to the right all the way and about 3/4 to the left. When I put pressure on the front, it turns to the right 3/4 of the way and to the left about 1/2. I have a powerhd 25kg servo, hr servo horn, and 3 clips on the servo spring. When i disconnect the servo horn everything moves freely so I don't think there's any binding or rubbing. At this point do I just need a more powerful servo?