Kraton Wheel Hex Stuck Twisted in Tire

[parcou]

Need fam help...

One of my PowerHobby Scorpion tires must have eaten on the inside hex. Pic below is a close-up shot of the hex in the tire on the Kraton. I cannot get the tire off since it has twisted in the wheel hex. Any ideas or approaches on how to remove this to get the tire off?

B-Part: How will I fix the PowerHobby wheel hex this tire is still mint good. I do not want to purchase another tire only been used about 10-12 times.

Thx

 

[Engineer]

Hang one side of the RC between two pieces of wood on the tires. Take the nut off the hex and then pound on the hex with a wood dowel to drive it out of the wheel. Obviously don’t hang the RC too high so that it comes crashing down on the ground.

 

[PshmokN’EM887]

You could use small screws around the the hex you’ll need 4-5 to keep the hex shape

 

[parcou]

Engineer that worked. I had tons of other more complicated ways of doing this but that was not one. Thx

 

[Spoc85]

I removed the Hex, stuck it in the wheel and used screws to hug the outer edge. Once tight, used a flame to melt the plastic into position. Removed the screws once the plastic cooled.
She’s not the prettiest job but that wheel hasn’t missed a turn.
It was a fellow members fix bar the heating of the plastic and removing of the screws.
No need to have the extra weight in the wheel once the plastic has shaped to the Hex.

 

[jondilly1974]

I removed the Hex, stuck it in the wheel and used screws to hug the outer edge. Once tight, used a flame to melt the plastic into position. Removed the screws once the plastic cooled.
She’s not the prettiest job but that wheel hasn’t missed a turn.
It was a fellow members fix bar the heating of the plastic and removing of the screws.
No need to have the extra weight in the wheel once the plastic has shaped to the Hex.

View attachment 197242

View attachment 197243

View attachment 197244

Powerhobby wheels don’t have the same holes around the hex.

 

[Spoc85]

Powerhobby wheels don’t have the same holes around the hex.

This fix won’t be for everyone, but it’s worked for me.
Dumped a heap of heat into the wheel and moulded the plastic around the hex. Not sure how much plastic is around the Scorpion wheel but there wasn’t much meat to work with on the BFG.
Took abit to to smooth it back out again but it works.

 

[Spoc85]

Powerhobby wheels don’t have the same holes around the hex.

Do you reckon that shotty MacGuver burn down on the plastic would suffice on a Powerhobby wheel?

 

[jondilly1974]

Do you reckon that shotty MacGuver burn down on the plastic would suffice on a Powerhobby wheel?

I don’t think melting plastic is a very reliable method myself. I know that is can become brittle very easily. I have just replaced wheels myself at that point. I do like the reinforcement of the Arrma wheels BEFORE damage tho. I think the voids in the wheels should be filled somehow. I know that in theory the added faces should make that area stronger, but in practice the void of material seems to be a weakness.

 

[Spoc85]

I don’t think melting plastic is a very reliable method myself. I know that is can become brittle very easily. I have just replaced wheels myself at that point. I do like the reinforcement of the Arrma wheels BEFORE damage tho. I think the voids in the wheels should be filled somehow. I know that in theory the added faces should make that area stronger, but in practice the void of material seems to be a weakness.

No doubt the heat has limited the structural integrity of the wheel but in saying that the 6s Backflip has bashed hard, been over 75mph and landed off the ramp from 15 Foot. BFG has held up well with bashing and standing backflips.
She’s not the ideal method of rectifying a wheel but an option nevertheless to whoever is stupid enough to give it a go

 

[parcou]

No doubt the heat has limited the structural integrity of the wheel but in saying that the 6s Backflip has bashed hard, been over 75mph and landed off the ramp from 15 Foot. BFG has held up well with bashing and standing backflips.
She’s not the ideal method of rectifying a wheel but an option nevertheless to whoever is stupid enough to give it a go

It's thin as JD said for that wheel but I will still look at some options. I did order a replacement so down the road I will see if I can still save it in some form with all posts shared here. Thx

 

[parcou]

Just to wrap this up in the event someone comes across it later. I did finally resolve this today. However let it be known, the root issue of the problem the bearings seized and this is what eat out the rear carriers. Since I bash this one in dirt so much...much dirt, I need do a wheel bearing check (for me pull them off and check) after each bash. No issue for me since I only get the bash this one about once a month or two if lucky. So excuse why I can't.

I did not need the aluminum carriers had no affect of the root issue (stock would due), but bought them because I never plan to sell this rig. M2C HEX extenders I purchased when I did not know it was a bearing issue thinking it was rubbing on the backside of the carriers. I'll keep them since they are better and a wider stance is still nice. It never flips anywhere with the lower droop on a hard power slide but this adds a bit more insurance. Thx all for the help guys! Lesson learned on my first 6S basher...need to step up my wheel bearings checks more frequently then I previously was doing.

 

[Valkrieys]

I toasted a felony rim like that and managed to salvage the rubber by filling the inner edge of the Hex w/ JB weld and pushing the nut in w/ some plastic to keep it from sticking. Wouldnt recommend for speed runs but i was able to toast the rubber atleast.