Senton Leaking front diff input

[Number1Phipps]

Hey guys I took the advice of my lhs a very short while back. I had broke my front shock tower Which as you know is the top of the front diff cover. I used his suggested 100k silicone diff fluid. I clean all of our trucks religiously but have been noticing it’s leaking more then what I would consider “acceptable” every time out. I have not changed out the rear yet. I’m wondering if the silicone is correct, is it getting to hot and leaking out through the bearing? Should I be using a thicker fluid
F vs R? It feels silky smooth when I turn the wheels by hand. I’m also having some steering issues that I believe are completely unrelated but also thinking if the fluid is thicker it wouldn’t hurt. I’ve seen some people say 500k even 1 million. Just unsure on this one. Thanks everyone

 

[Camaroboy383]

whoa... so you put diff fluid on the outside of the diff? diff fluid goes inside the diff. cup.. not on the outside.. your supposed to use grease on the outside...

 

[Number1Phipps]

whoa... so you put diff fluid on the outside of the diff? diff fluid goes inside the diff. cup.. not on the outside.. your supposed to use grease on the outside...

NO I put it on the inside! It’s leaking from the inside out

 

[Camaroboy383]

NO I put it on the inside! It’s leaking from the inside out

if fluid is getting outside the cup into the tower housing the gasket is not sealing.. this can be from both loose screws and over tightened screws.. over tightened screws will distort the end cap of the cup.. to loose, and well you know the rest

Hey guys I took the advice of my lhs a very short while back. I had broke my front shock tower Which as you know is the top of the front diff cover. I used his suggested 100k silicone diff fluid. I clean all of our trucks religiously but have been noticing it’s leaking more then what I would consider “acceptable” every time out. I have not changed out the rear yet. I’m wondering if the silicone is correct, is it getting to hot and leaking out through the bearing? Should I be using a thicker fluid
F vs R? It feels silky smooth when I turn the wheels by hand. I’m also having some steering issues that I believe are completely unrelated but also thinking if the fluid is thicker it wouldn’t hurt. I’ve seen some people say 500k even 1 million. Just unsure on this one. Thanks everyone

500k and 1mill are for bigger rigs.. like 6s and up rigs.. not for 3s rigs.. i would go 50k tops.. even at 50k you will see a loss in steering while throttling..

 

[Number1Phipps]

if fluid is getting outside the cup into the tower housing the gasket is not sealing.. this can be from both loose screws and over tightened screws.. over tightened screws will distort the end cap of the cup.. to loose, and well you know the rest



500k and 1mill are for bigger rigs.. like 6s and up rigs.. not for 3s rigs.. i would go 50k tops.. even at 50k you will see a loss in steering while throttling..

Ok so I will pull the front diff apart and clean then repeat but will check tightness of screws

Now with the steering it just won’t track straight EVER! Every time out I have to adjust the trim. It just seems to walk around under any throttle use.

 

[jondilly1974]

I have been running 100k in the front of all my 4x4 rigs for a while and it’s fine. The rear would be a different story. If you only want to go straight, 100k is fine in the rear too. If you want to turn, 20k in the rear is about perfect.

Can you post a pic of where you are seeing the leaks? Did your diff cup have a gasket? Was it in good shape?

 

[Camaroboy383]

these rigs are not very precise.. there is mass amounts of slop in the steering components... make sure your alignment is ok then go from there.. but its always going to be a sloppy mess.. just have to learn to drive it.. there isnt a rig out there that doesn't need to be driven under throttle..

 

[Number1Phipps]

I have been running 100k in the front of all my 4x4 rigs for a while and it’s fine. The rear would be a different story. If you only want to go straight, 100k is fine in the rear too. If you want to turn, 20k in the rear is about perfect.

Can you post a pic of where you are seeing the leaks? Did your diff cup have a gasket? Was it in good shape?

I’m out working right now I will try and post one later. It’s leaking where the center driveshaft inputs to the front diff housing.

these rigs are not very precise.. there is mass amounts of slop in the steering components... make sure your alignment is ok then go from there.. but its always going to be a sloppy mess.. just have to learn to drive it.. there isnt a rig out there that doesn't need to be driven under throttle..

Yeah I realize they are not very precise, I just wish there was a way to tighten it all up.

 

[jondilly1974]

I’m out working right now I will try and post one later. It’s leaking where the center driveshaft inputs to the front diff housing.

Yeah I realize they are not very precise, I just wish there was a way to tighten it all up.

There should only be grease inside the tower tho? How is diff fluid getting out of the diff cup and into the tower?

 

[Camaroboy383]

I’m out working right now I will try and post one later. It’s leaking where the center driveshaft inputs to the front diff housing.

Yeah I realize they are not very precise, I just wish there was a way to tighten it all up.

you can purchase different pivot balls, hot racing has aluminum ones, but they wear as well, just takes longer for them to do so... best bet would be to find some steel pivot balls.. you can replace the bushings in the bellcranks with bearings as well.. then start adding shims to pull the slop out of the hub bearings.. all depends how far you want to go with it..

 

[Number1Phipps]

you can purchase different pivot balls, hot racing has aluminum ones, but they wear as well, just takes longer for them to do so... best bet would be to find some steel pivot balls.. you can replace the bushings in the bellcranks with bearings as well.. then start adding shims to pull the slop out of the hub bearings.. all depends how far you want to go with it..

I will go as far as I can with it lol. I’m looking at getting a full set from Jim’s along with the Bearings that replace the bushings and motor bearings as well. I’m wondering since there are 3 levels of bearings that they offer is the top of the line really worth the dough for what we do or will the mid grade work.

 

[Camaroboy383]

I will go as far as I can with it lol. I’m looking at getting a full set from Jim’s along with the Bearings that replace the bushings and motor bearings as well. I’m wondering since there are 3 levels of bearings that they offer is the top of the line really worth the dough for what we do or will the mid grade work.

all bearings fail unfortunately, we put them through hell.. and they need to be swapped out periodically.. i would not spend big big money on bearings, instead buy 2 sets and have them on hand for any unforseen bearing failures.. i do although like to use the stainless bearings in the motor cans.. ?

 

[Number1Phipps]

all bearings fail unfortunately, we put them through hell.. and they need to be swapped out periodically.. i would not spend big big money on bearings, instead buy 2 sets and have them on hand for any unforseen bearing failures.. i do although like to use the stainless bearings in the motor cans.. ?

This is also my thinking. Why shell out the 90 for something I’m going to replace in a few months when I bet I get the same life out of the mid grade.

 

[Notorious Robo]

all bearings fail unfortunately, we put them through hell.. and they need to be swapped out periodically.. i would not spend big big money on bearings, instead buy 2 sets and have them on hand for any unforseen bearing failures.. i do although like to use the stainless bearings in the motor cans.. ?

Wouldnt the ceramic be better in the cans ?

 

[Camaroboy383]

Wouldnt the ceramic be better in the cans ?

sure for speed runs most definetly, for a basher that may see water/mud/fine track clay abuse.. stainless will be the best..?

 

[Notorious Robo]

sure for speed runs most definetly, for a basher that may see water/mud/fine track clay abuse.. stainless will be the best..?

Thankyou for your knowledge