Kraton Leopard 1480kv 4292 heat issues

[ParkRacing]

Running the big leopard 1480kv 4292 motor on my Kraton with 6s lipo and am getting 180 plus temps with 15/50 gearing! Not why I bought this motor!
Anyone else having issues with this motor or similar issues with another big motor?
Just curious...

 

[ParkRacing]

 

[Rich Duperbash]

View attachment 11298

I've yet to run this or any super high torque, low Kv setups. My guess is it may be undergeared with the 15 tooth based on what others have said. Just throwing it out there.

 

[stewdogg]

I agree with Rich about the gearing being too low. I have a can that ran hot in my MT410 on a 15 tooth pinion, but I put a 17 tooth pinion in and dropped some degrees. I'm going to try a 19 tooth pinion and see if it keeps getting more efficient or if I topped out on the 17 tooth.
It's worth a try for you to go up a couple teeth for sure... it's a cheap option anyway. I would go up two or three teeth at least.

Other than that is anything binding? Does it roll freely? Have you checked all the obvious stuff?

 

[ParkRacing]

I agree with Rich about the gearing being too low. I have a can that ran hot in my MT410 on a 15 tooth pinion, but I put a 17 tooth pinion in and dropped some degrees. I'm going to try a 19 tooth pinion and see if it keeps getting more efficient or if I topped out on the 17 tooth.
It's worth a try for you to go up a couple teeth for sure... it's a cheap option anyway. I would go up two or three teeth at least.

Other than that is anything binding? Does it roll freely? Have you checked all the obvious stuff?

I have had it much higher geared, working backwards now. Yes all obvious things checked. Thanks

 

[stewdogg]

Yeah, just read your other post... that sucks!

What wheels are you running and what are your ambient temps? Just getting an idea for what the scenario is.

 

[ParkRacing]

I've yet to run this or any super high torque, low Kv setups. My guess is it may be undergeared with the 15 tooth based on what others have said. Just throwing it out there.

Thanks Rich, too low gearing is definitely not the issue.
I have seen some of your new videos lately and must say your driving skills have become crazy good!!! Hitting a narrow wood ramp at those speeds and the back flips you do and land are awesome!!! Way different from your early videos.
That Tekno is sweet also.
It looks like you jump it half a mile!
Wish I could bash with you!

Yeah, just read your other post... that sucks!

What wheels are you running and what are your ambient temps? Just getting an idea for what the scenario is.

Mostly stock and about eighty five degrees, pretty mild. I am switching to xt90 connectors to see if that helps as Vanning has suggested.

 

[Rich Duperbash]

Thanks brother for the kind words, much appreciated. Haven't read the other post Stewdogg was referring too. I switched to EC5 awhile back to minimize resistance after melting solder 2-3 times with lower rated connectors with my kids hopped up rigs...Lol. The XT90s are rated almost as high and are among the very best from what I've researched anyway. Definitely worth a shot and some piece of mind.

 

[Vanning]

You can bench test the motor also. I chuck the shaft in my drill press and hold the can steady with a vice and rag. Or get another person to hold it. You can also use a hand drill. Spin the motor shaft at a consistent speed with one of the drills. Set a digital multi meter to AC voltage. Touch the negative and positive leads of the meter to each combination you can on the motors 3 wires. Do 2 at a time. Each reading should measure the same. Also you can set the motor on the bench and check the resistance between each combo. There should not be any or just what the meter has. My guess is...... if you used the big green Castle connectors, they did not solder up well. Great connector but harder to solder. After trying lots of connectors... I found XT90 are easy to solder and work well. Also... redo the motor wire solder if you are at your wits end. I've been there bud. One other shot in the dark....this is low on the list. Make sure the center diff cup bearings are not blown out.

 

[ParkRacing]

You can bench test the motor also. I chuck the shaft in my drill press and hold the can steady with a vice and rag. Or get another person to hold it. You can also use a hand drill. Spin the motor shaft at a consistent speed with one of the drills. Set a digital multi meter to AC voltage. Touch the negative and positive leads of the meter to each combination you can on the motors 3 wires. Do 2 at a time. Each reading should measure the same. Also you can set the motor on the bench and check the resistance between each combo. There should not be any or just what the meter has. My guess is...... if you used the big green Castle connectors, they did not solder up well. Great connector but harder to solder. After trying lots of connectors... I found XT90 are easy to solder and work well. Also... redo the motor wire solder if you are at your wits end. I've been there bud. One other shot in the dark....this is low on the list. Make sure the center diff cup bearings are not blown out.

Awesome thanks Vanning, I have never done testing like this before, love to learn these things. The drivetrain is smooth as silk.

 

[Vanning]

I went through the same crap as you are now. It is annoying. How about Rich's vids on You Tube and a few of his buds !!! The ramps are awesome. I know of one place in NJ like that but it's hidden back in some woods. I'll have to go find it one day. .

 

[ParkRacing]

I went through the same crap as you are now. It is annoying. How about Rich's vids on You Tube and a few of his buds !!! The ramps are awesome. I know of one place in NJ like that but it's hidden back in some woods. I'll have to go find it one day. .

Wish l could find a place like that in New Mexico or had some rc friends at least, well I do have rc friends but they are crawlers, poor guys!!!
How are you liking the bigger scale stuff?

 

[Vanning]

The large scale has some killer power. They can shred the heck out of a lawn in 5 minutes. In my buggy it was scary but that rig needs a center diff bad. To coushin the torque it has. After trying out a bunch of them ...I have to say that the X-Maxx 8S is the way to go after swapping the ESC to a Hobbywing or Castle. It sucks that you can't get the Xmaxx as a roller and you have to pay for a crap electronics. What I found out is the Xmaxx is light compared to other large scales. It's a different experience and after looking hard at them and trying them. Xmaxx wins in my book. You have to stay light or it has to go more cells.

However.... the 8th scale stuff has way more options and is easier to travel with etc. I had the option to purchase an X-Maxx or the Tekno MT410. For some reason I went the MT410 direction . Lighter weight RC's that are built well tend to hold up well with extreme bashing. The 410 is a 1/10th with 1/8 scale components. It's very light.

I'm still going to seek an Xmaxx 8S but no rush. Looking for used roller maybe. Or fit a center diff in my XBE. Without one, the drive line can take on insane shock. It will constantly loosen itself up off road. On road with slicks.... it hits 80-90 mph easy Without issues. I have a slow motion vid of my 8s nearly ripping an A arm off the chassis. It needs a slipper or center diff. The power it has is around 8 horse.

 

[ParkRacing]

The large scale has some killer power. They can shred the heck out of a lawn in 5 minutes. In my buggy it was scary but that rig needs a center diff bad. To coushin the torque it has. After trying out a bunch of them ...I have to say that the X-Maxx 8S is the way to go after swapping the ESC to a Hobbywing or Castle. It sucks that you can't get the Xmaxx as a roller and you have to pay for a crap electronics. What I found out is the Xmaxx is light compared to other large scales. It's a different experience and after looking hard at them and trying them. Xmaxx wins in my book. You have to stay light or it has to go more cells.

However.... the 8th scale stuff has way more options and is easier to travel with etc. I had the option to purchase an X-Maxx or the Tekno MT410. For some reason I went the MT410 direction . Lighter weight RC's that are built well tend to hold up well with extreme bashing. The 410 is a 1/10th with 1/8 scale components. It's very light.

I'm still going to seek an Xmaxx 8S but no rush. Looking for used roller maybe. Or fit a center diff in my XBE. Without one, the drive line can take on insane shock. It will constantly loosen itself up off road. On road with slicks.... it hits 80-90 mph easy Without issues. I have a slow motion vid of my 8s nearly ripping an A arm off the chassis. It needs a slipper or center diff. The power it has is around 8 horse.

Very interesting, i was wondering how the big stuff was going for you, I didn't think I would be seeing you back on here but I am glad you are back! The 1/8 scale stuff is a good scale for me and I love buggy/truggy platform.
I was really interested in getting an xmaxx when they first came out and now you have sparked my interest again.
If you build one I definitely have to see that!

 

[Vanning]

They are extremely fun but almost like a niche. It's a must try vehicle on 8S. Extremely fun. However... the 1/8th stuff has more people following, more vehicles to choose from. The kits are what I miss. I'm so glad I got the Tekno kit. The Losi 8ight, Tekno, Mugen etc are sweet builds. The parts are so nice . Rollers and kits are the way to go. No more ready to runs for me. I always see Kraton rollers... that's a good thing. The problem with the Xmaxx is nobody wants to mail a roller. You can purchase a new one and just sell the stock electronics. Nobody can get you a roller for 200 less. One with no ESC, radio or motor. I almost got one from Kershaw Designs but it was turning out to be more money than a new 8S with stock electronics. He couldn't save me anything. He tried.

Another Truggy of some sort may be more interesting to me soon. Kraton roller is possible.

 

[ParkRacing]

I

They are extremely fun but almost like a niche. It's a must try vehicle on 8S. Extremely fun. However... the 1/8th stuff has more people following, more vehicles to choose from. The kits are what I miss. I'm so glad I got the Tekno kit. The Losi 8ight, Tekno, Mugen etc are sweet builds. The parts are so nice . Rollers and kits are the way to go. No more ready to runs for me. I always see Kraton rollers... that's a good thing. The problem with the Xmaxx is nobody wants to mail a roller. You can purchase a new one and just sell the stock electronics. Nobody can get you a roller for 200 less. One with no ESC, radio or motor. I almost got one from Kershaw Designs but it was turning out to be more money than a new 8S with stock electronics. He couldn't save me anything. He tried.

Another Truggy of some sort may be more interesting to me soon. Kraton roller is possible.

Nice cheap race truggy roller turned basher would work nice.

 

[Vanning]

I'm more attracted to exactly that. I held off on getting a new 1/5th. I still run these 2 with my buddy so I can get my fill. Arrma and Maxx. Now I'm getting the MT410 finished. That X-Maxx. Is a trip. True basher but it's not as nice as the 1/8th stuff. Hard to explain but I think you get it. I still have to say... it's a must try !!!! That Xmaxx is another type of animal. I'm just too hooked on the 1/8 truggy platform and also the short wheel base now that I've been watching Rich D.

 

[ParkRacing]

Oh, that black old school Chevy looks so cool!
Yeah the truggy/buggy platform just speaks quality and upgrades and just makes sense. For a while when i wanted a monster I was looking at the savage but the whole design seemed unnecessary! And all the monsters are just rollover Queens!
I always wondered why someone didn't just build a basher based on a rock solid truggy/buggy platform then Bam, there was Arrma, so refreshing! And Kraton was a must have!
What I never liked about Traxxas is all the molded gray plastics? I think it looks cheap and unnecessary. That is the reason I never got a Revo, i would have dumped a bunch of money into one and then just sold it for a big loss once arrma came out as I have done with so many rc's before.
It's unfortunate for the X Maxx that you cant make your own shock towers and things like that?

 

[Rich Duperbash]

I'm more attracted to exactly that. I held off on getting a new 1/5th. I still run these 2 with my buddy so I can get my fill. Arrma and Maxx. Now I'm getting the MT410 finished. That X-Maxx. Is a trip. True basher but it's not as nice as the 1/8th stuff. Hard to explain but I think you get it. I still have to say... it's a must try !!!! That Xmaxx is another type of animal. I'm just too hooked on the 1/8 truggy platform and also the short wheel base now that I've been watching Rich D.

Great pics Vanning. Your MT looks SICK!!! Wish my body still looked nice like that. Didn't stay pretty for long...Lol.

 

[Vanning]

Nope... I'm going to tape up that body tonight and that will be the end of it. Going to try Scotch extreme packaging tape under the shell. I should have it in the mail today.

I hate working with shoe goo so I've been looking for an alternative. Maybe this tape will work ?