Kraton Leopard 4092 1730kv

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Totally understand, I have been using HobbyWing for years with excellent results so I will stick with that. Just didn't know if you had experience with both and went with Castle.
I'm just wondering if I run a 23t will get me enough speed on 5s to keep me happy for the summer? Would you mind clocking your truck with a 5s for giggles?

Nope...the Hobbywing stuff looks real nice. If I build another RC...I will try Hobbywing out for sure. It looks real nice to me.

I think the 1780KV will be much better on 5S. It should keep cool rather nicely. One day I'll run my 1480KV on 5S to see what it does. I can just slap it in as is now just to get an idea.

I ran my 1780KV hard on 6S....it got too hot for me to run full packs. I think it was due to how hot the actual ambient temp was for me at the time. You would think it would stay cool on 6S. IDK what was going on but you may have better luck than I did with a 1780KV. Other people run it...they only say it gets toasty with bigger tires. Other people tell me it's no good on 6S....but then you see Thomas P. ripping it in Kratons all day. It's also negative 18 degrees where he is. IDK...RcJuice said no good on 6S in a Kraton. I didn't do well with it on 6S. A few other guys say it's good. It might be boarder line depending on weight, battery quality and outside temps. ??? Trial and error. $$$
I am just going to get your motor and deal with whatever speed I can get from it on 5s for now. Just been disappointed too many times with heat issues! I will be happier with it a little slow, with a cool motor and happy, long running batteries! Maybe I can find a smaller spur that will work?

Did you get the 4092 1730kv? I ordered mine today. What are you using for support on rear of motor? Are the wires long enough to reach the ESC?


I'm running same tires on both trucks
Please keep me updated with the motor results!
 
6S is good at 1350-1550KV....5S 1550 to 1700KV.....4S 1700, 2000, 2250KV. That's per Tekin for Truggy motors. The Kraton is a hefty Truggy.

I can try my Leopard on 5S to see what it can do on the 20 tooth. Maybe by the weekend or this weekend. I'll dump a data chart off of it to compare , clock the speed and see what the motor temps are.... I'll use the stock tires on the road. I'll need a little time...the weather isn't so great here on the East coast.

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I got diffs to build also !!!! What size steel rods do I need ?
 
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6S is good at 1350-1550KV....5S 1550 to 1700KV.....4S 1700, 2000, 2250KV. That's per Tekin for Truggy motors. The Kraton is a hefty Truggy.

I can try my Leopard on 5S to see what it can do on the 20 tooth. Maybe by the weekend or this weekend. I'll dump a data chart off of it to compare , clock the speed and see what the motor temps are.... I'll use the stock tires on the road. I'll need a little time...the weather isn't so great here on the East coast.

View attachment 5529 I got diffs to build also !!!! What size steel rods do I need ?
Already installed my Hotracing diff
 
6S is good at 1350-1550KV....5S 1550 to 1700KV.....4S 1700, 2000, 2250KV. That's per Tekin for Truggy motors. The Kraton is a hefty Truggy.

I can try my Leopard on 5S to see what it can do on the 20 tooth. Maybe by the weekend or this weekend. I'll dump a data chart off of it to compare , clock the speed and see what the motor temps are.... I'll use the stock tires on the road. I'll need a little time...the weather isn't so great here on the East coast.

View attachment 5529 I got diffs to build also !!!! What size steel rods do I need ?
Per ThomasP's video he used steel drill bits sized 2.20. Got 2 pins out of each bit.
 
For those of you who have installed the Leopard 1730kv. What pinion gear should I install?
 
6S is good at 1350-1550KV....5S 1550 to 1700KV.....4S 1700, 2000, 2250KV. That's per Tekin for Truggy motors. The Kraton is a hefty Truggy.

I can try my Leopard on 5S to see what it can do on the 20 tooth. Maybe by the weekend or this weekend. I'll dump a data chart off of it to compare , clock the speed and see what the motor temps are.... I'll use the stock tires on the road. I'll need a little time...the weather isn't so great here on the East coast.

View attachment 5529 I got diffs to build also !!!! What size steel rods do I need ?
I would really appreciate that! It would be nice to know before I spent another cent! Weather is bad here too so no hurry, plus I have to sell the other motors and some old cell phones and anything else I can find to buy the motor and a new esc.

I would really appreciate that! It would be nice to know before I spent another cent! Weather is bad here too so no hurry, plus I have to sell the other motors and some old cell phones and anything else I can find to buy the motor and a new esc.
The truck is really heavy for sure. The new 1550kv 4274 is still getting hot too quickly with 13t and 5s, the lipo's are getting a little too warm. That's why it is time to go with the long can!
 
I would really appreciate that! It would be nice to know before I spent another cent! Weather is bad here too so no hurry, plus I have to sell the other motors and some old cell phones and anything else I can find to buy the motor and a new esc.


The truck is really heavy for sure. The new 1550kv 4274 is still getting hot too quickly with 13t and 5s, the lipo's are getting a little too warm. That's why it is time to go with the long can!
Just a thought,check your motor wires,if one has a bad connection the motor will still run but get hot and heatup the esc.
 
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Already installed my Hotracing diff
MLK jammed me all up with the mail getting here. I got work to do, I ordered the steel pins 2.2 from McMaster Carr, I got the shims from Trout, I need fresh Loctite also. Keep me posted on how it works. I'm worried about the screws backing out on them. That's why I'm going to get brand new Loctite.

I'm going to harden more diff cups also. This is going to take me a while to complete.

I would really appreciate that! It would be nice to know before I spent another cent! Weather is bad here too so no hurry, plus I have to sell the other motors and some old cell phones and anything else I can find to buy the motor and a new esc.


The truck is really heavy for sure. The new 1550kv 4274 is still getting hot too quickly with 13t and 5s, the lipo's are getting a little too warm. That's why it is time to go with the long can!

I wired up a Castle plug on my 5S pack last night. Hopefully this weekend I can test it out for you. I'm also wondering how it would do with the low KV. I'm going to bet that it doesn't break a sweat but has to run a 21 tooth to get around 50mph.. My goal on 6S was 50mph.....I hit 52 easily on a 20T....I can get faster out of it but why ? Larger pinions mesh so well with the spur....that's one good thing about it. However...they cost like 11 bucks a piece. I mostly run 6S because it gives me the longest run times and most efficiency . I also am a fan of these longer motors. I farted around with all sorts of combo's also before I found something I liked. I only purchased one 5S and one 6S to try... 4S was not even considered. I loved 5S on the stock motor with a light as possible Kraton running Badlands....Very sweet. However....6S setup. Temps, torque, speed. run time...it's all just improved

I would really appreciate that! It would be nice to know before I spent another cent! Weather is bad here too so no hurry, plus I have to sell the other motors and some old cell phones and anything else I can find to buy the motor and a new esc.


The truck is really heavy for sure. The new 1550kv 4274 is still getting hot too quickly with 13t and 5s, the lipo's are getting a little too warm. That's why it is time to go with the long can!

You have Backflips installed ? What other added weight do you have. I wouldn't think a 1550KV on 5S would do you so wrong ?? Something in the solder or connectors could be giving you issues also. However....after running hard for a full pack...it could get toasty. However...you are frying eggs off your motors from what I understand. Something isn't right. Maybe it's the connectors ?? IDK.
 
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MLK jammed me all up with the mail getting here. I got work to do, I ordered the steel pins 2.2 from McMaster Carr, I got the shims from Trout, I need fresh Loctite also. Keep me posted on how it works. I'm worried about the screws backing out on them. That's why I'm going to get brand new Loctite.

I'm going to harden more diff cups also. This is going to take me a while to complete.



I wired up a Castle plug on my 5S pack last night. Hopefully this weekend I can test it out for you. I'm also wondering how it would do with the low KV. I'm going to bet that it doesn't break a sweat but has to run a 21 tooth to get around 50mph.. My goal on 6S was 50mph.....I hit 52 easily on a 20T....I can get faster out of it but why ? Larger pinions mesh so well with the spur....that's one good thing about it. However...they cost like 11 bucks a piece. I mostly run 6S because it gives me the longest run times and most efficiency . I also am a fan of these longer motors. I farted around with all sorts of combo's also before I found something I liked. I only purchased one 5S and one 6S to try... 4S was not even considered. I loved 5S on the stock motor with a light as possible Kraton running Badlands....Very sweet. However....6S setup. Temps, torque, speed. run time...it's all just improved



You have Backflips installed ? What other added weight do you have. I wouldn't think a 1550KV on 5S would do you so wrong ?? Something in the solder or connectors could be giving you issues also. However....after running hard for a full pack...it could get toasty. However...you are frying eggs off your motors from what I understand. Something isn't right. Maybe it's the connectors ?? IDK.
That is the coolest you can test it for me!......
Backflip tires, tbr bumpers, Tekno battery tray and straps, aluminum chassis braces, 5000mah 5s lipo's.
I am pretty surprised that it gets hot also, could be soldering? I shut it down before it gets hot enough to do damage. I am wondering if that is why I just fried my rx8, can't be sure because it has been acting funny for years?
I have a dozen mod 1 pinions, up too a 23t so that is not an issue.

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That is the coolest you can test it for me!......
Backflip tires, tbr bumpers, Tekno battery tray and straps, aluminum chassis braces, 5000mah 5s lipo's.
I am pretty surprised that it gets hot also, could be soldering? I shut it down before it gets hot enough to do damage. I am wondering if that is why I just fried my rx8, can't be sure because it has been acting funny for years?
I have a dozen mod 1 pinions, up too a 23t so that is not an issue.

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Not a problem testing it out for you. Just need a dry parking lot to get some good pulls to gather some info. I'll run the full battery also to get an idea of run time and temps. I rather not burn up the Backflips on the pavement so I'm going to just run stock tires. They are a little lighter but just about the same height.

The Leo 1730 has a max voltage of 20 volts, the Leo 1480 has a max voltage of 23 volts.

A 6S battery has a nominal voltage of about 22.1 and charges to about 25.2 or so. A 5S has a nominal of 18.5 and charges to around 21. The 6S Lipo spends lots of time at about the 23 volt range. A 5S in the 20 volt range.

You can run the 1730 on 6S but it gets a little saturated with voltage. It's possible that it needs a fan. For me... I needed a fan for that motor while getting good traction and doing some hard street acceleration. 5S would probably run way cooler for full packs.

The 1430.... I can do 6S, run full hard pulls up and down the street (good traction) and never need a fan.

Run time is much longer Also.

if you start to saturate the motor... it starts to build temp... then it's time for a fan. Which is fine.

I'm running the 1480 KV on 5S Saturday to determine speed and temp. If you later visit 6S... I rather go with the lower KV. If I was staying 5S...it's the 1780 kv. I shoot for not needing a fan.
 
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The metal center diff came out smoother to turn by hand than the plastic version,also makes a slight sound when run,didn't get warm after 5mintues.Going to test today on a full run.Locktite is a must!!!
The Dex8 outdrives are perfect for the front or back diff,they have more depth in the cup and more relief for greater angle ,no need to shim the front arms or the back with cvd's.
 
6S is good at 1350-1550KV....5S 1550 to 1700KV.....4S 1700, 2000, 2250KV. That's per Tekin for Truggy motors. The Kraton is a hefty Truggy.

I can try my Leopard on 5S to see what it can do on the 20 tooth. Maybe by the weekend or this weekend. I'll dump a data chart off of it to compare , clock the speed and see what the motor temps are.... I'll use the stock tires on the road. I'll need a little time...the weather isn't so great here on the East coast.

View attachment 5529 I got diffs to build also !!!! What size steel rods do I need ?
Already installed my Hotracing diff.
The metal center diff came out smoother to turn by hand than the plastic version,also makes a slight sound when run,didn't get warm after 5mintues.Going to test today on a full run.Locktite is a must!!!
The Dex8 outdrives are perfect for the front or back diff,they have more depth in the cup and more relief for greater angle ,no need to shim the front arms or the back with cvd's.
Just came back from a 30 mintue bash session.Sand temp was 114f,air temp 82f.Hotracing diff after two runs got up to 128f,motor was at 135f and esc was at 145f( back to back runs).No leaks from the center diff and it seems quieter when running.I like!!
 
Already installed my Hotracing diff.

Just came back from a 30 mintue bash session.Sand temp was 114f,air temp 82f.Hotracing diff after two runs got up to 128f,motor was at 135f and esc was at 145f( back to back runs).No leaks from the center diff and it seems quieter when running.I like!!
Sounds good, are you running castle 1515 or Leopard 4092 1730kv? What pinion are you running?
 
The metal center diff came out smoother to turn by hand than the plastic version,also makes a slight sound when run,didn't get warm after 5mintues.Going to test today on a full run.Locktite is a must!!!
The Dex8 outdrives are perfect for the front or back diff,they have more depth in the cup and more relief for greater angle ,no need to shim the front arms or the back with cvd's.

Sounds like it's going to keep the center fluid cooler.

That works very well on 6s..... I like! Do you have a fan on the motor?

I just saw the pic with the fan. Very nice setup!

What sort of mesh is over them ? Screen ?

The metal center diff came out smoother to turn by hand than the plastic version,also makes a slight sound when run,didn't get warm after 5mintues.Going to test today on a full run.Locktite is a must!!!
The Dex8 outdrives are perfect for the front or back diff,they have more depth in the cup and more relief for greater angle ,no need to shim the front arms or the back with cvd's.

Any close up pics of the cups installed ?
 
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Sounds like it's going to keep the center fluid cooler.



What sort of mesh is over them ? Screen ?

Old window screen with rubber band( ghetto)

Any close up pics of the cups installed ?
Only factory shim used.
I also installed the Dex8 upper metal suspension hanger.
 
I ran my Kraton today on 5S, 1480KV Leopard, 20 Tooth pinion. It hits 43 mph. I'll get right to the point.....In a Kraton, this motor is a solid 6S motor.....no good for 5S. I'm positive that it will not make this truck shine on 5S. It's too low of a KV to get the proper RPM and the right gear ratio. I feel it will never be in a sweet spot unless it was geared with a smaller pinion. If you got all 5S packs Parkracing..just get the 1780 kv. It should be bad ass on it. You probably will not need a fan

6S will put it where you want. 5S...I wouldn't want it. That's a 6S run there...after 25 mins I'm still going without hitting the lipo cut off. I would normally hit lipo cut off on 5S at 18mins on the stock motor. But that's different with everyone. 5000 mah on 6S and 5200 on 5S.
 

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On the subject of motor voltage ratings,it's all about heat soak,but motor manufactures have to be conservative,so its up to us if where running things to hard.Easy to find what will work when using a temp gun or logging esc.
 
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