Long can motors heat soak when you run them back to back battery packs so that's why i run a fan,never gets over 138f.If you like the current pinion just add the fan for insurance.
Kraton Leopard 4092 1730kv
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Vanning
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He's at 155 on the motor after just 15 mins on 5S. I would go one tooth lower or drop the timing and punch maybe. The motors can get way hotter than that but 155 at 15 mins seems a tad hot too quick . It's not bad but if it was mine... I would drop a tooth. Shoot for 155 at the end of your run without a fan. I feel you got a good setup going on. You could leave that as is but I would drop a tooth. 140-150 at the end of a run doesn't bother me one bit. Up around 160-170.... that's getting too hot for me. If you are at 160 on external temps... the inside is way hotter. Castle will say no big deal as long as the outside temp is under 180 max . Other companies that build race motors say 160 max outside can temp. I like 140-150.
My rig On 6S... ESC average is 134F-156F taken off the data logger. and the motor can averages 135-145. Hitting it with a temp gun at the end of a run. That raised up a little on real hot days.
Your rc electronics should be able to run without fans. Except in very hot weather or poor air circulation conditions. Fans reduce air flow when they jam up. So don't try and rely on one. Unless you have very hot weather and poor air flow through the rc and under the body. Then you have no choice. There is nothing wrong with fans as long as it's not a band aid to normal running conditions.
I bust and jam most fans from jumping, not just from debris. The impact sends some fan blades into the upper shroud on some fans. Some fans are better than others. Get a quality fan if you use one. one that's robust.
My rig On 6S... ESC average is 134F-156F taken off the data logger. and the motor can averages 135-145. Hitting it with a temp gun at the end of a run. That raised up a little on real hot days.
Your rc electronics should be able to run without fans. Except in very hot weather or poor air circulation conditions. Fans reduce air flow when they jam up. So don't try and rely on one. Unless you have very hot weather and poor air flow through the rc and under the body. Then you have no choice. There is nothing wrong with fans as long as it's not a band aid to normal running conditions.
I bust and jam most fans from jumping, not just from debris. The impact sends some fan blades into the upper shroud on some fans. Some fans are better than others. Get a quality fan if you use one. one that's robust.
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Ole Fart51
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That's what I was thinking, thanks for the input.
Hey guys (noob here), what motor/esc combo would be good with 4S, 5S, or 6S? Keep in mind, I'm just wanting balanced, low-mid speed (40-50mph) acceleration, and I don't mind a few wheelies. I want the all the electronics to run cool, and the battery packs to last the longest. I also am on a 14T pinion with backflip tires.
Vanning
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Why not commit to just 6S if you want to change out stuff .. you got a 6S vehicle. In my opinion, over time, you will find that it's the most fun and can be the most efficient on 6S. Lots of us here just run 6S. For 4S, you want higher KV motors, for 5S the stock motor is good, for 6S you want lower KV motors. This rule, along with proper gearing will keep your system efficient and in a good heat range. A motor fan is always good to keep extended long runs in check. If you want long run time, sometimes a fan is good anyway. A bunch of us here have great success on 6S with Leopard long can motors 4092 , Hobbywing Max8, Castle Mamba Monster X and batteries with 5000mah 50c or a tad more. RC Juice or SMC batteries.
6S batteries 5000mah has more capacity than a 4S 5000mah battery and 5S 5000mah. That's another thing to keep in mind when it comes to the size and weight of a pack.
6s gets you the most efficient setup, longest run times when you combine the right battery, motor, ESC, and gearing.
The stock motor ran well on 5S for me but it's not as wicked as 6S. Plus the run time was not that long. 18mins.
6S batteries 5000mah has more capacity than a 4S 5000mah battery and 5S 5000mah. That's another thing to keep in mind when it comes to the size and weight of a pack.
6s gets you the most efficient setup, longest run times when you combine the right battery, motor, ESC, and gearing.
The stock motor ran well on 5S for me but it's not as wicked as 6S. Plus the run time was not that long. 18mins.
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@Vanning thanks for the lowdown! Yeah, I've seen the trend in the Kilovolts VS lipo cells in the motor selections. I LOVE 6S, but I originally bought a super expensive Max Amps 4S pack.
Is there a good gearing setup that can be used with both batteries on a 4092? If not, I'm willing to part with my 4S.
Also, is the 4092 the one that you have to drill out to instal?@Vanning thanks for the lowdown! Yeah, I've seen the trend in the Kilovolts VS lipo cells in the motor selections. I LOVE 6S, but I originally bought a super expensive Max Amps 4S pack.
Is there a good gearing setup that can be used with both batteries on a 4092? If not, I'm willing to part with my 4S.
You ever heard anything good about GoolRC?
Ole Fart51
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You should drill and tap any motor other than Arrma motors. Arrma motors come with M4 others m3. I highly recommend the Leopard motors. I recently saw a post of someone putting a Nero motor in a Kraton and having great success, you can get a Nero motor in eBay for around $60.00. I may try one when my Talion burns up my Momba.
Vanning
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If you are running some nice 4S packs then pick a good 4S motor like a 2200KV. What's wrong with the stock motor ? It should move out well ? Are you having heat issues ? If you are, it's probably gearing or something else like my saga I just had with connectors and solder.
Also.... sometimes when you make an rc heavier, you have to increase voltage to get it into the right power to weight ratio. or gear it with a smaller pinion.
Also.... sometimes when you make an rc heavier, you have to increase voltage to get it into the right power to weight ratio. or gear it with a smaller pinion.
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ParkRacing
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@Vanning thanks for the lowdown! Yeah, I've seen the trend in the Kilovolts VS lipo cells in the motor selections. I LOVE 6S, but I originally bought a super expensive Max Amps 4S pack.
Is there a good gearing setup that can be used with both batteries on a 4092? If not, I'm willing to part with my 4S.
You ever heard anything good about GoolRC?
I have the same leopard 4292 motor Vanning is running, you don't have drill anything out to install. Those guys just did that for the extra security? Mine works great with stock size screw holes, if they ever strip out from a hard landings I will post it. Just bolt it in and go like any other motor.
Ole Fart51
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True, you don't have to drill them out. It is added security. The reason I do it is, on my Momba with m3, I had a nasty crash and broke both m3 off. This caused a few problems, broke my pinion and spur gear, motor came out and cracked my ESC. So a $4.00 upgrade is very much worth it.
@Vanning Well, I may have to end up replacing the ESC (still trouble shooting), and I'd like to get huge runtimes out of the batteries that I do have, so lower Kv (2000 or less) seems to be the answer everywhere I look. Also, my rig is a bit wheelie happy, so I could probably afford to gear up (16-18T) in order to keep my nose down, and still have balanced torque with a long-can all while staying fairy cool.
Hey @Ole Fart51 I think I saw @Rich Duperbash put the Nero motor in. Looks great. The reason I ask about the GoolRC motors is because I just can't shake the price of the Leopards when the specs are so close on these for half the price 4092 4082.
Ole Fart51
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Same specs and half the price. Can't really go wrong with that. If you get the cool rc, let us know how it works out.
Vanning
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I prefer the longer motors but it really just comes down to what works well for you. It also doesn't hurt to try something and be the test pilot for some people here !!! Give a thumbs up or thumbs down.
Specs don't mean much.... some motors are made much better than others. They are say 97% efficient as apposed to 85% for example.
Specs don't mean much.... some motors are made much better than others. They are say 97% efficient as apposed to 85% for example.
It'll be a fun experiment!
Yeah guys, will do. I also think the SkyRC Toro could possibly be a better ESC and programming card than the HobbyWing MAX8.
ParkRacing
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Same stuff, rebranded I think
Vanning
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After sizzling my Castle Mamba Monster X a few times, I'm glad to say.... it's still working fine. I was recently reading up on the Hobbywing ESC's and I found a nice feature while reading some specs. From what I understand, they have anti spark built into the ESC. That's very nice.
What I mean is use the anti-spark connectors on the cheaper ESC vs buying the Hobbywing?
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