Lets talk temps

[Slicktmi]

Nah. Just not even close. Normally amp ratings are good to go by as long as you stick to the same manufacturer when you compare, but hobbywing that’s definitely not the case. The blx 185 is good for 4074 motors, the max8 is good for 4082 motors, and the Max6 is good for 4092 motors and 4582 motors on 8s.

I never run 8s and from my experiences, castle systems are ultra reliable (at least the old stuff) so I’ve always been a Mamba Monster and mamba monster 2 guy because they’re also good for 4582 can motors, just can’t run 8s.

I had a Mamba Monster that ran for 9 years and the fan finally died a few weeks before the esc itself died. Currently I have an mxl 6s (mm2) and it’s seen the skate parks 50 or so times, still no dead fan. My senton’s blx 185 is fine because that truck isn’t that heavy so I’ll probably just leave that how it is. For the e revo, definitely needed that mamba monster 2, because my hobbywing max8 wasn’t cutting it. Too hot! That truck may only be running a 4276 motor, but it’s pulling tons of amps so it tends to be quite the cook off for electronics in general.


Edit: well I say it can’t run 8s but really my old mamba monster was overvolted to 8s many times (to achieve that 121mph slash run as well) and it took well over a thousand runs to kill, and my mxl-6s is hacked to version 1.24 so I have no overvoltage cutoff and no over amperage cutoff either. (This essencially makes it an MMM, but waterproof.) The Mamba monster original was the only esc to ever come out of the factory with no current limiting. I believe Castle now offers a “mamba monster 2 retro” that has no amperage limiting either, but there’s only a limited supply, so I just took my mm2 and hacked it to that firmware.

Edit2: couldn’t hurt to try it on 4s with the 1480kv with your blx185 for a little bit.

When i was into the 1/10 scale rc i used to only buy castle products they were the best i only ever blew bearings in them never actually fried a motor or controller i ran them hot it was back in the day when they didn't even have fans lol i over volted motors as well they still took it like a champ. i was gonna try the blx but I'm saving those electronics for a mt410 if i ever decide to pull the trigger on one i have a radio esc motor and tires for the build but still deciding if i want one lol but i agree castle make amazing products seems hobbywing makes ok products but i think they're over priced

 

[DoNoHarm]

When i was into the 1/10 scale rc i used to only buy castle products they were the best i only ever blew bearings in them never actually fried a motor or controller i ran them hot it was back in the day when they didn't even have fans lol i over volted motors as well they still took it like a champ. i was gonna try the blx but I'm saving those electronics for a mt410 if i ever decide to pull the trigger on one i have a radio esc motor and tires for the build but still deciding if i want one lol but i agree castle make amazing products seems hobbywing makes ok products but i think they're over priced

Hah, before esc's needed fans. Makes us sound like we're talking about something from a hundred years ago LOL!

Personally I see no issues with hobbywing stuff. Only problem is that, back in the day they were cheaper than castle, and they make pretty good stuff so it was definitely smarter financially to buy from HW, but nowdays they're the same price as castle if not more.

Edit: modern castle stuff is definitely a different approach than the castle I know and love. It's totally cool what they're doing, just not for me. Essentially they switched from the world war proof designs built for power and abuse only, to now cranking out tekin like equipment with less brute force than their old esc's, just more finesse. Also a higher price tag. That's why I normally say that I'm a castle guy of 5 years ago lol.

Translation of that last paragraph: castle has gone from punch to finesse. Although their modern esc line isn't the powerhouses of the MMM and MM2, they decided to make some changes and make less powerful, (slightly less dependable) sensored equipment that is funner to mess with. And like I said, that's not for me, and I have no problem buying mamba monster 2's on the internet because they're not rare yet. It'll be a shame when they become scarce though.

 

[DoNoHarm]

Thanks for all that typing Peanut. Lot of good info here.

You're very welcome man, the way my career works, I have windows of completely free time where I can use forums like this to help people, so I enjoy it! ?

 

[bicketybam]

I’ve been through 2 fans on my Mamba X.

 

[olds97_lss]

Running my outcast on 4S, 15T pinion, trencher 3.8's, stock motor/esc. Stock esc fan, hobbywing heat sink with a 40mm fan. I run dual SMC 7400mah 2S packs.

I can't run in grass for more than 10-15 minutes when it's 80F outside or the esc thermals. Without the fan on the motor, it was getting up to 170, the fan dropped that down to 140'ish or less, so I pretty much quit monitoring it.

I can run in 80F at the skate park for pack after pack without issue though. It's only when I run at the park in grass. Probably partly due to the much longer WOT runs, since there's room, combined with the grass causing drag. I run much more distance at WOT in the park due to the jumps not being as abrupt, so they need more speed to get good air.

When my esc was hitting "thermal", the steering would work, but forward/reverse wouldn't. It was/usually is very sunny when that happens, so I can't really see the esc led's to know. When I temped the esc, I got 140F for the reading.

I come from the land where nitro lives... so I'm very accustomed to checking temps frequently just to keep an eye on things. With that, you don't usually tune by temp, but it's something you keep an eye on as if it starts to go up inexplicably, you either got a fuel delivery problem, your tune is out of whack, a bearing is out and causing drag or you have twine/grass wrapped up around an axle somewhere.

 

[olds97_lss]

I’ve been through 2 fans on my Mamba X.

Oddly, I haven't had a fan die on my castle esc's either. I ran the sct sv3 in my stampede and the HPI MMv1 in my savage flux, then later the MMX in my flux. Including the one in my ERBEv1, that one is now 2 years old and the original.

Really though, until I threw 3S into my stampede, it didn't see the air my outcast does. I've replaced the one on my outcast once already, I got in July of 2018. I run 4S, so I don't get RD type air. My buddy that ran a talion on 6S seemed to break a fan every other outing. He launched that thing though. I have to imagine RD goes through his fair share of fans with the kind of air he gets.

 

[DoNoHarm]

Running my outcast on 4S, 15T pinion, trencher 3.8's, stock motor/esc. Stock esc fan, hobbywing heat sink with a 40mm fan. I run dual SMC 7400mah 2S packs.

I can't run in grass for more than 10-15 minutes when it's 80F outside or the esc thermals. Without the fan on the motor, it was getting up to 170, the fan dropped that down to 140'ish or less, so I pretty much quit monitoring it.

I can run in 80F at the skate park for pack after pack without issue though. It's only when I run at the park in grass. Probably partly due to the much longer WOT runs, since there's room, combined with the grass causing drag. I run much more distance at WOT in the park due to the jumps not being as abrupt, so they need more speed to get good air.

When my esc was hitting "thermal", the steering would work, but forward/reverse wouldn't. It was/usually is very sunny when that happens, so I can't really see the esc led's to know. When I temped the esc, I got 140F for the reading.

I come from the land where nitro lives... so I'm very accustomed to checking temps frequently just to keep an eye on things. With that, you don't usually tune by temp, but it's something you keep an eye on as if it starts to go up inexplicably, you either got a fuel delivery problem, your tune is out of whack, a bearing is out and causing drag or you have twine/grass wrapped up around an axle somewhere.

If this isn't LVC and is thermal, this is good news. Seems like hobbywing's charts are off with their thermal shutdown. I was looking at them awhile ago and on paper it says 221F for the cutoff.... yeah right, it'll never make it to that heat without melting the caps. As you said, 140f was the number, which is a lot more reasonable and right where it should be. Now it makes sense how people's esc's are surviving thermal shutdown!

What system are you running man? I find it crazy how you can get so hot on 4s. I mean yeah it's only on super hot days but still, seems too hot for that voltage. If you're running the stock system than nevermind, that makes sense.

And +1 for the nitro stuff.. that's why I'm always checking temps too.


Edit: for your new reply directly above this one, big same. Like I said my revo gets sent absolutely up there on 6s and these are concrete skate parks... never broken an esc fan. All my trucks that had castle esc' said never even lost a blade.

Edit2: it can't be down to the plastic chassis absorbing the shock because my vorza was sent to the moon on 6s as well with its MMM (hpi blur) and that was chassis smack after chassis smack. Nonetheless, a fan shouldn't make you not buy a hobbywing esc. It's just a fan.

 

[Slicktmi]

Running my outcast on 4S, 15T pinion, trencher 3.8's, stock motor/esc. Stock esc fan, hobbywing heat sink with a 40mm fan. I run dual SMC 7400mah 2S packs.

I can't run in grass for more than 10-15 minutes when it's 80F outside or the esc thermals. Without the fan on the motor, it was getting up to 170, the fan dropped that down to 140'ish or less, so I pretty much quit monitoring it.

I can run in 80F at the skate park for pack after pack without issue though. It's only when I run at the park in grass. Probably partly due to the much longer WOT runs, since there's room, combined with the grass causing drag. I run much more distance at WOT in the park due to the jumps not being as abrupt, so they need more speed to get good air.

When my esc was hitting "thermal", the steering would work, but forward/reverse wouldn't. It was/usually is very sunny when that happens, so I can't really see the esc led's to know. When I temped the esc, I got 140F for the reading.

I come from the land where nitro lives... so I'm very accustomed to checking temps frequently just to keep an eye on things. With that, you don't usually tune by temp, but it's something you keep an eye on as if it starts to go up inexplicably, you either got a fuel delivery problem, your tune is out of whack, a bearing is out and causing drag or you have twine/grass wrapped up around an axle somewhere.

Sounds alot like mine i noticed when i gear down the esc runs way way cooler motor usually stays the same or gets worse with gearing never better lol that HW motor fan helps alot and its only 10$ so I'll take it and it's the only fan i haven't broke yet surprisingly

 

[DoNoHarm]

Those hobbywing esc's run way too hot. You guys are running the max6 correct???? Unacceptable. That's just not cool, that esc should be way overly qualified in there. Your trucks are all in the 10-13 pound range I assume, which is roughly half of what it's good for.

 

[Slicktmi]

If this isn't LVC and is thermal, this is good news. Seems like hobbywing's charts are off with their thermal shutdown. I was looking at them awhile ago and on paper it says 221F for the cutoff.... yeah right, it'll never make it to that heat without melting the caps. As you said, 140f was the number, which is a lot more reasonable and right where it should be. Now it makes sense how people's esc's are surviving thermal shutdown!

What system are you running man? I find it crazy how you can get so hot on 4s. I mean yeah it's only on super hot days but still, seems too hot for that voltage. If you're running the stock system than nevermind, that makes sense.

And +1 for the nitro stuff.. that's why I'm always checking temps too.


Edit: for your new reply directly above this one, big same. Like I said my revo gets sent absolutely up there on 6s and these are concrete skate parks... never broken an esc fan. All my trucks that had castle esc' said never even lost a blade.

Edit2: it can't be down to the plastic chassis absorbing the shock because my vorza was sent to the moon on 6s as well with its MMM (hpi blur) and that was chassis smack after chassis smack. Nonetheless, a fan shouldn't make you not buy a hobbywing esc. It's just a fan.

When i over heated my esc like i stated above it was well in the 200 it smelled hot! Not fried tho. It probably weakened it somehow getting it that toasty

 

[olds97_lss]

If this isn't LVC and is thermal, this is good news. Seems like hobbywing's charts are off with their thermal shutdown. I was looking at them awhile ago and on paper it says 221F for the cutoff.... yeah right, it'll never make it to that heat without melting the caps. As you said, 140f was the number, which is a lot more reasonable and right where it should be. Now it makes sense how people's esc's are surviving thermal shutdown!

It wasn't LVC. It was shortly after putting in a second set of packs that were fresh.

What system are you running man? I find it crazy how you can get so hot on 4s. I mean yeah it's only on super hot days but still, seems too hot for that voltage. If you're running the stock system than nevermind, that makes sense.

Running my outcast on 4S, 15T pinion, trencher 3.8's, stock motor/esc. Stock esc fan, hobbywing heat sink with a 40mm fan. I run dual SMC 7400mah 2S packs.

 

[DoNoHarm]

When i over heated my esc like i stated above it was well in the 200 it smelled hot! Not fried tho. It probably weakened it somehow getting it that toasty

Sorry, slipped through my mind, I got a lot on my head hah! Now we have an interesting point.

Maybe the newer esc's have an updated shutdown temperature. And actually to counteract my post up there, those esc's run hot but clearly yours was fine after hitting 200 so maybe they just like heat? Orrrr more probable, you just got lucky.

I just find it so weird how you guys are seeing temps so high.

And @olds97_lss yup so definitely some updated thermal shutdown. Good stuff hobbywing.

 

[Slicktmi]

Sorry, slipped through my mind, I got a lot on my head hah! Now we have an interesting point.

Maybe the newer esc's have an updated shutdown temperature. And actually to counteract my post up there, those esc's run hot but clearly yours was fine after hitting 200 so maybe they just like heat? Orrrr more probable, you just got lucky.

I just find it so weird how you guys are seeing temps so high.

And @olds97_lss yup so definitely some updated thermal shutdown. Good stuff hobbywing.

I think i just got lucky lol i remember the old castle esc used to have a high cutoff temp to i used to hit it running the 7700kv motor on 3s lol but i don't think it's healthy for electronics to be anywhere past maybe 160tops for esc but that's just my thinking being that im a limit tester

 

[Slicktmi]

Were getting confused here lol olds is talking about his blx hitting thermal at 140 and im talking about my max6 hitting 200+ before shutdown. I even confused myself a bit?

 

[DoNoHarm]

im a limit tester

You and me both, I push my electronics pretty darn hard, I'm pretty sure my motor is being overrevved by 2000rpm (running 6s on a 5s rated motor) and my esc is pushing a tiny bit over its maximum weight rating, the esc is fine but the motors are basically brushed ones at this point, I go through them 3 times a year. Hobbystars seem to last the longest so that's what I run. That's what makes it fun for me.

For the electronics temp thing, it's all about preference. Personally, I don't like capacitors ever getting over 150 degrees, so I usually never let my esc's get past 140. (Currently I'm running good esc's that don't even get there though). Motors don't have caps in them or any electrolyte prone to heat damage, just the magnets themselves, which start to degrade at 200f (so does the glue) so that's why I choose to try and keep it below 180. (On every other rig I've owned that's been no issue but for my revo it's just not possible so I already accepted that my motors shall be disposable LOL)

 

[olds97_lss]

Were getting confused here lol olds is talking about his blx hitting thermal at 140 and im talking about my max6 hitting 200+ before shutdown. I even confused myself a bit?

Sorry, didn't mean to muddy the waters. I read your first post and was going off that, "arrmas stock out of the box".

 

[DoNoHarm]

Were getting confused here lol olds is talking about his blx hitting thermal at 140 and im talking about my max6 hitting 200+ before shutdown. I even confused myself a bit?

Ohhhhhh. Okay. Also, arrma rated their blx systems at 221F as well for thermal shutdown, so still someone did good and made the cutoff happen well before that!

 

[Slicktmi]

You and me both, I push my electronics pretty darn hard, I'm pretty sure my motor is being overrevved by 2000rpm (running 6s on a 5s rated motor) and my esc is pushing a tiny bit over its maximum weight rating, the esc is fine but the motors are basically brushed ones at this point, I go through them 3 times a year. Hobbystars seem to last the longest so that's what I run. That's what makes it fun for me.

For the electronics temp thing, it's all about preference. Personally, I don't like capacitors ever getting over 150 degrees, so I usually never let my esc's get past 140. (Currently I'm running good esc's that don't even get there though). Motors don't have caps in them or any electrolyte prone to heat damage, just the magnets themselves, which start to degrade at 200f (so does the glue) so that's why I choose to try and keep it below 180. (On every other rig I've owned that's been no issue but for my revo it's just not possible so I already accepted that my motors shall be disposable LOL)

That's how my outcast was i got it up to 310 wopping degrees on the stock blx motor it lost power while it was hot but once it cooled off it was back to normal once again smelled hot not fried ?? and for that 7700kv castle creations motor it's only rated for 2s i ran it on 3s daily 200+degrees on 3s that thing is spinning at a whopping 85500rpm still only grenaded the bearings lol

 

[Slicktmi]

Sorry, didn't mean to muddy the waters. I read your first post and was going off that, "arrmas stock out of the box".

No worry olds i appreciate your input i run 4s just like you i got tired of 6s lol very unreliable

 

[DoNoHarm]

That's how my outcast was i got it up to 310 wopping degrees on the stock blx motor it lost power while it was hot but once it cooled off it was back to normal once again smelled hot not fried ?? and for that 7700kv castle creations motor it's only rated for 2s i ran it on 3s daily 200+degrees on 3s that thing is spinning at a whopping 85500rpm still only grenaded the bearings lol

LMAO yeah what a ripper that motor must’ve been!