Limitless LibertyMkiii's crazy belt drive car project

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I actually made that comment based on your experiences. I had not tried to reach them myself.

Well, I double and triple checked... and found their original website is now being redirected to some online pharmacy RX for Viagra "Super Active".. which is definitely a tell tale sign that something is NOT right.
 
Unseen work on this project I had made about 4-6 different front axles and kept having binding and other little issues, that were un acceptable for me.
After making so many with no success I decided it was time to give up on a solid front axle and re-design this for dog bones. I call them tiny dogs :LOL:

Due to the extremely small width chassis the dog bones are about the smallest yet beefy you will ever see!!!

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Still need to finish the other side but thought I'd post an update on this project. When its 104 F outside I only get a short window in the morning to work in the garage.
 
Your knuckle is upside down!

That is a legit screw up from the beginning. I took the measurements and when I designed the part were accidentally with the knuckle up side down. After 3D printing the parts I realized it wont hurt anything.... So far it seems to be ok and works our well for the steering arm placement.

Just makes it unique ;)

Good news is that you could drive the car up side down and then the knuckle is right side up? LOL
 
@LibertyMKiii That's actually freakin' amazing. :love:

Thanks man, they are a pain being so small. I screwed up this time drilling the holes for the pins on the smaller one and have to start it over again :mad:
These give just enough room for steering to work correctly and some room for the dog bone to do its thing and allow the axle to turn smoothly. It was causing some wobble when it was just one long axle going into the wheel hubs without dog bones.

Fingers crossed this setup works and I can finally begin some real testing with this car.
 
It has to be a bugger to get something that small to stay put while you drill. 😲
Drilling a hole in a metal rod has to be one of the toughest things to do. I think you need a precise jig to hold it perfectly and align the drill. I gave up trying.
 
It has to be a bugger to get something that small to stay put while you drill. 😲

With the right tools it is not so bad and titanium drills fairly easy with decent bits...

Drilling a hole in a metal rod has to be one of the toughest things to do. I think you need a precise jig to hold it perfectly and align the drill. I gave up trying.

Should you want to try it again some time this tool from big gator makes it happen in a vice:
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https://www.amazon.com/Big-Gator-To...07589&sprefix=big+gator+tools+,aps,90&sr=8-12
 
I feel like the front end is about ready but from day one it has been bugging me that the axles didn't turn as smooth as they should.
My #1 suspicion was that everything was not square. I had drawn lines on the carbon chassis and thought it was right but now see a few holes were off by 1 to 2 mm.

Curious what methods the great minds on the forum have for this scenario? (The chassis is far too long to use something 3d printed.)

Having the chassis cut by CNC is probably my best bet.

I gave this idea a shot and looks decent. Clear plastic/lexan with some clear vinyl grid on top.

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I feel like the front end is about ready but from day one it has been bugging me that the axles didn't turn as smooth as they should.
My #1 suspicion was that everything was not square. I had drawn lines on the carbon chassis and thought it was right but now see a few holes were off by 1 to 2 mm.

Curious what methods the great minds on the forum have for this scenario? (The chassis is far too long to use something 3d printed.)

Having the chassis cut by CNC is probably my best bet.

I gave this idea a shot and looks decent. Clear plastic/lexan with some clear vinyl grid on top.

View attachment 238760

Shoot me the .dxf file of that profile.
(Either with the mounting holes already calculated or if you just want just the "blank".)

I'll take a look at the rough costs..
 
Shoot me the .dxf file of that profile.
(Either with the mounting holes already calculated or if you just want just the "blank".)

I'll take a look at the rough costs..
The material costs alone are out of budget for this year.
The problem is this chassis is a little over 800mm. A carbon fiber sheet that size is outrageously expensive!!!
 
The material costs alone are out of budget for this year.
The problem is this chassis is a little over 800mm. A carbon fiber sheet that size is outrageously expensive!!!

Roger that.

What about making it in ABS and then reinforcing it with hand laid carbon fiber cloth ,and curing it the way you made that custom CF flat plate?
 
Roger that.

What about making it in ABS and then reinforcing it with hand laid carbon fiber cloth ,and curing it the way you made that custom CF flat plate?
Because this car does not have suspension the ride height is dictated by the chassis and the aluminum bearing carriers. Basically, it has to be the same 3mm thickness as designed.

For now, the plan is to make this clear plastic sheet the master template and adjust my existing holes in the carbon plate to be correct. I can epoxy the holes. It wouldn't be good for 8s power, but enough that I can test the chassis and car on 3s.

I may find it needs further revisions when testing anyway so this may be the best approach for now. One thing I had not planned for is that the RC Speed run batteries are starting to change shape. I will already need to adapt some things in that area.
 
Because this car does not have suspension the ride height is dictated by the chassis and the aluminum bearing carriers. Basically, it has to be the same 3mm thickness as designed.

For now, the plan is to make this clear plastic sheet the master template and adjust my existing holes in the carbon plate to be correct. I can epoxy the holes. It wouldn't be good for 8s power, but enough that I can test the chassis and car on 3s.

I may find it needs further revisions when testing anyway so this may be the best approach for now. One thing I had not planned for is that the RC Speed run batteries are starting to change shape. I will already need to adapt some things in that area.
Do you think the change in shape might be down to the fact that SMC is now working with a different manufacturer now and not necessarily have anything to do with speed running per se? Or did you get info from somewhere that the differing needs of speed running are dictating a different cell shape? The reason I'm asking is because the Onyx batteries still look much like the SMC-SRDs of "old".
 
Do you think the change in shape might be down to the fact that SMC is now working with a different manufacturer now and not necessarily have anything to do with speed running per se? Or did you get info from somewhere that the differing needs of speed running are dictating a different cell shape? The reason I'm asking is because the Onyx batteries still look much like the SMC-SRDs of "old".

When I started this side of the hobby 4+ years ago most of us were using 5Ah packs, now it has become abundantly clear that 6+ Ah is ideal. Then you have parallel setups that perform even better.

So I would say the packs are not changing, but the type of battery I am running now is changing. For example, the CNHL G+ 70c 6000mAh is a wide cell pack.

The new SMC SRD V2 square pack is a rather chunky and odd-shaped pack also. Yet to be seen, but I did pre-order it.
 
I took some screen shots from the video of the guy running his jet powered car at the ROSSA 2022 August event. He showed briefly a car much like this one I am making. Key difference I see is that his is only RWD and based on 1/10 scale tires.

Overall I like what he has done but the 2wd is going to hurt him without access to a runway all the time.

I heard he did something like 150 on 3s which is impressive 👏

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