Typhon LibertyMKiii's Typhon GT streamliner and 4Tec 2.0 speed run projects

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What’s the thing weigh?
I'll put it on the scale when I get done. One will be cut for a 1/8 car and the other for a 1/7 scale.

Feels like a factory now with all of these bodies in various stages of the process...

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Very likely I'm going to get a vacuum bagging setup after this. It will lower the labor after the creation as well reduce the final weight.
 
I have been fighting with my stretched 4tec 2.0 getting the shafts connected and turning without a wobble. I may try to get a single shaft later on but anxious to try the car out in modified form so its back to a standard wheelbase.

These are carbon trays fitted on top of the standard chassis filed down on the sides. This is similar to the SAGA kit allowing 2 3s packs on the sides or in my case 2 2s packs since I plan to run it on 4s power. A TP4050 has been ordered and anxiously awaiting! I need to make some battery tie down aluminum blocks next as I don't like the idea of straps going under when the ground clearance is so little as is.

SWBCapture.JPG
 
Update on the 1/7 and 1/8 carbon bodies.
I need a vacuum bagging setup...

So when they came out of the mold there was some big air pockets. I started patching those up:
air pockets issue.JPG


The small ones are harder to see here, but I thought they would fill in with the clear coat.
up close air bubblesCapture.JPG


The following pictures are after clear coat and you can see it didnt stick or float down into those voids. I was wrong and very disappointed now...

air pockets issue 3.JPG


air pockets issue 2.JPG


Only looks good at 4+ feet distance

w clear Capture.JPG


So many hours sanding, I am burn out!
 
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Feel your pain @LibertyMKiii .
I have experience of this in my job with 3D printed SLA parts, ...it's not so bad if the parts are to be hand finished and painted a colour as you can use car body filler or similar fillers to fill the holes before prime/paint but if the part is to be clear then it's a nightmare.

The clear coat/lacquer won't fill the pin holes and only serves to highlight them further. Only way around it is to hand finish the part and sand out the problem areas as best as possible before spraying the lacquer ~ this is done to remove build lines usually anyway but with pin holes would need more attention in those specific areas.
Occasionally polishing afterwards can help but in a lot of cases it doesn't.
 
Feel your pain @LibertyMKiii .
I have experience of this in my job with 3D printed SLA parts, ...it's not so bad if the parts are to be hand finished and painted a colour as you can use car body filler or similar fillers to fill the holes before prime/paint but if the part is to be clear then it's a nightmare.

The clear coat/lacquer won't fill the pin holes and only serves to highlight them further. Only way around it is to hand finish the part and sand out the problem areas as best as possible before spraying the lacquer ~ this is done to remove build lines usually anyway but with pin holes would need more attention in those specific areas.
Occasionally polishing afterwards can help but in a lot of cases it doesn't.
Do y'all happen to make moulds and use PVA spray?
I didn't have this much of an issue with the Unlimited project and every product and method was identical except for PVA spray.

The body pops out nice with PVA so I hope that is not the issue...
 
Do y'all happen to make moulds and use PVA spray?
We do make moulds yes as they're used in vacuum casting which is another thing I do in work but we don't use PVA spray.

Our moulds are made from silicone rubber and we generally use silicone release agents or wax release agents (both in spray cans). No idea how either would work for what you're doing though sorry.

This is the silicone release agent we use mostly: https://www.mbfg.co.uk/macsil.html
 
Finished up the wing for the 1/7 and 1/8 body
Not sure that I want to make much more of these. It is a pain LOL
end platesCapture.JPG

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Now for the "New" stuff. Got the first 2 prints done on the 4tec 2.0 1/10 scale design

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Put all my chips in for this carbon body side hustle venture ?.
Sold the Typhon, PPS mount, Limitless Spool, and Leopard 1/5 motor to fund it.

Invested in a resin infusion setup and materials to make the next bodies. Resin infusion system has the mould under vacuum in a bag, then pulls the resin through while under vacuum. This will eliminate my air bubbles/voids issue. Also it will provide the perfect resin to fiber ratio creating a lighter and stronger part. (professional results)

Also going to try a hybrid fabric that should be interesting to see.
 
Delta Plastiks 1/10 Porsche 917 body is supposed to arrive Friday. Anxious to test the car out on 2s power and of course I'll be modifying the body and making my own modified (aero improvements) carbon fiber version to sell ;)

TP4050 motor is in and gear mesh setup. (very limited space)
Replaced the Traxxas shock bodies with the STRC adjustable aluminum ones. They turned out great and function was just what this car needed!

STRC adjustable shock body Capture.JPG
TP Motor installed.JPG
 
Took the 4tec 2.0 out for a test on 2s. All cells were at 3.92v because I didn't have time to charge them up all the way.
Went to the school parking lot and managed 53 mph. I was never able to hit full throttle due to the lack of room. I cant wait to open this thing up on a long road and see what it does!

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The 3rd piece of my 3d print finished up this morning. Still much to do with this one but the shape and design of a "boat tail" is something I have wanted to do for a very long time. The issue has always been the length. Even for this little 1/10 on-road it is very long...

Boat Tail Capture.JPG


boat tail car on top Capture.JPG
 
Took the 4tec 2.0 out for a test on 2s. All cells were at 3.92v because I didn't have time to charge them up all the way.
Went to the school parking lot and managed 53 mph. I was never able to hit full throttle due to the lack of room. I cant wait to open this thing up on a long road and see what it does!

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The 3rd piece of my 3d print finished up this morning. Still much to do with this one but the shape and design of a "boat tail" is something I have wanted to do for a very long time. The issue has always been the length. Even for this little 1/10 on-road it is very long...

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Is there going to be enough downforce or do you have plans on an external airfoil?
 
Is there going to be enough downforce or do you have plans on an external airfoil?
Plenty on the front end, but for the rear I plan to use an external airfoil. An airfoil creates less drag than a wedge body anyway...
The rear tail section will have a diffuser like function with its angle, but likely not enough.
 
This is what selling a Typhon 6s (stock electronics) looks like to start up a RC carbon fiber body production business looks like.
Not pictured is the vacuum pump, epoxy resin, hardener, PVA, gellcoat, sandpaper, moulds, fiberglass, 3d Prints, hundreds? of hours of labor.

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Trying out a new hybrid fabric. This one is lime green died fiberglass woven with carbon fiber. Looks pretty good :love:
I only got 1 yard of this one, so I'll see how far I can stretch it for the 1/10 bodies. It will be backed with heavy carbon fiber for extra strength.

Lime green hybrid carbon fiber Capture.JPG
 
Sneak peak of a 4th body I am working on. It will be a standard 1/10 (200mm) RC body where it has cutouts for the wheels/tires.
I have always liked the Le Mans Prototype style cars. This one is very smoooooth.

More to come on this one in the next week or two.
This picture is a rear view and is currently wet-sanded primer:

rear in primer Capture.JPG
 
Tried resin infusion for the first time this morning. It was just a test with some scraps I had left over.
Very interesting process! I think I will 3d Print the piece where the vacuum side attaches. That Aluminum piece was full of resin and a giant pain to clean off!

 
Tried resin infusion for the first time this morning. It was just a test with some scraps I had left over.
Very interesting process! I think I will 3d Print the piece where the vacuum side attaches. That Aluminum piece was full of resin and a giant pain to clean off!

Just saw the video; pretty cool! It does flow fast.
 
Been working on many projects.
Tried another shakedown run with the 4tec and it's steering on it's own under acceleration. It appears it needs all sorts of aluminum upgrades to drive straight.... Typically Traxxas (I should have known)
I couldn't put down any power above 50mph without the car spinning out. I'll have to sell some RC bodies before I can invest in all the necessary upgrades.

Small update on the stretched chassis. I ordered a 4130 chromoly rod a while back and finally got some time to cut and modify it to work as the drive shaft. I'll ultimately have at least 2 but possibly 3 shaft supports in there to keep things true. Interesting note is that 4130 chromoly is very strong, but also has the characteristics of spring steel to return to its original position. (good material for drive shafts)

4130 driveshaft Capture.JPG


Also while waiting on some chemical to arrive for the mold making process I have been working on the 1/10 stream liner for the original wheelbase. 1st coat of primer went on this morning and still need to do some additional body work. It certainly looks up for the job of 200 mph. I'll have to make a longer version for the stretched chassis.

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