Typhon Life with the pro line shocks on the Typhon

[tiarc]

Hello Arrma fam,
I recently pick up a typon 3s and want to say thanks to this forum for the tips/tricks. I will most likely stick with the 3s vs the 6s as Im a fan its light weight, plus the speed is quite good relative to its cost. I have upgraded to pro-line powerstroke shocks and that comes to my first thanks; tips on how to bleed shocks. There was a lot of different opinions which was hard to reference at first, but it was the choice of options that eventually help the most. I gravitated to the dead shock, ie a shock with little to no rebound. This tip was key, as I was rather skeptical of the proline "value" relative to its cost. My takeaway; its the dual rate springs that differentiate these shocks and the dead rebound is key to ensure the helper spring can do its job. The net, improve handling which led to better driving dynamics. Less flips, better slide recovery and drift control. Its a noticeable difference over stock and I now want to upgrade the servo to improve steering response, something I did not realize I wanted until I added the shocks. Im less convince that dual rate springs are ideal for big air, so if that your thing I would do some homework. Thanks all

 

[SrC]

"Dead" or neutral rebound shocks have always been my preference, going back to my Track days. What worked best. Emulsion setup is even better vs Bladder IMHO. More plush despite being harder to setup.
Dual rate springs, (2 different rate springs Stacked together) never worked for me. Actually I hated them. Even with my slow Crawlers I hated them. They are hard to set them up well enough, matched as pairs. In theory they should work. Just not for me. Double springs also bind up along the Shock body with use. Single springs are best. Especially for hard bashing and big air. PL has pushed dual rate spring shocks before. PL "pretty looking" $shocks$ suck. Wasted my money on 4 of them. Nowadays, Dual springs are more a Crawler thing if anything. Where they are more commonly implemented.
But we all have differing opinions. What works for you what matters.
PL makes great bodies and wheels. Their claim to fame.
HH owns PL now. So I am waiting for better products from them. I won't hold my breath though.

 

[morrjr71]

HH owns PL now. So I am waiting for better products from them. I won't hold my breath though.

The common denominator with HH is that they put out barely acceptable products designed for the masses, and those same products are unacceptable to those of us who are more versed in RC. It keeps the aftermarket thriving.

With Horizon's concern more with profitability than quality, I don't expect to see any improvements to the quality of Pro-Line products. They might even be of poorer quality if that is necessary to keep the bottom line where HH wants it to be.

 

[SrC]

+1

 

[tiarc]

Double springs also bind up along the Shock body with use

They are hard to set them up well enough, matched as pairs. In theory they should work.

Note to anyone reading this thread, I agree with SrC on the negatives with the PL shocks, except one I don't think they look all that "pretty" lol (I know that was sarcasm, but the ebay variants imho look better). That said; I had read the negatives before the purchase however I have some experience with aftermarket shocks in the automotive world. Most shock out the box don't work right so I took a chance on the product, its a hobby after all. A tip on the "binding" of the spring separator, give it a light sanding and I used a dry bike chain lube on the shock body. Also, the springs seems to favor a specific orientation. I can't explain it well, but I could rotate the springs independently to reach a "sweet" spot where there was almost no binding. Another observation, I seen pics of setups where the shock collars are thread way down, compressing the light spring in order to gain more height. Yeah, I personally wouldn't do that as it flatten out the lighter spring ability to skim over light bump (something I notice and like about the shocks). To close, I wouldn't recommend these shocks to anyone. I don't have buyer remorse but in hindsight I actually would give the ebay big bore variants a go. The lesson I really learned is that its all in the setup.

 

[slick2500]

Note to anyone reading this thread, I agree with SrC on the negatives with the PL shocks, except one I don't think they look all that "pretty" lol (I know that was sarcasm, but the ebay variants imho look better). That said; I had read the negatives before the purchase however I have some experience with aftermarket shocks in the automotive world. Most shock out the box don't work right so I took a chance on the product, its a hobby after all. A tip on the "binding" of the spring separator, give it a light sanding and I used a dry bike chain lube on the shock body. Also, the springs seems to favor a specific orientation. I can't explain it well, but I could rotate the springs independently to reach a "sweet" spot where there was almost no binding. Another observation, I seen pics of setups where the shock collars are thread way down, compressing the light spring in order to gain more height. Yeah, I personally wouldn't do that as it flatten out the lighter spring ability to skim over light bump (something I notice and like about the shocks). To close, I wouldn't recommend these shocks to anyone. I don't have buyer remorse but in hindsight I actually would give the ebay big bore variants a go. The lesson I really learned is that its all in the setup.

Stay away from the eBay shocks the shafts are made from cheese.