Limitless/Infraction Owners - Suspension slop?

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Arrma RC's
  1. Limitless
Fairly recent new owner of my first ARRMA, a Limitless. Extremely long time RC enthusiast, coming from higher end kits I've noticed QUITE a bit of slop when it comes to the suspension components of my Limitless.

Specifically the rear hubs and the suspension arms. There seems to be quite a bit of play in them. Has anyone come up with any fixes for this? I can't imagine that a car meant for high speeds handles this much suspension slop very well.

Also (but I'm sure this should go in a different sub) a lot of the drive line components don't seem to be manufactured with a high tolerance. I noticed that even the DIFF Drive Cups seem to have quite a bit of "wobble" to them.

So how does everyone tighten everything up??
 
Fairly recent new owner of my first ARRMA, a Limitless. Extremely long time RC enthusiast, coming from higher end kits I've noticed QUITE a bit of slop when it comes to the suspension components of my Limitless.

Specifically the rear hubs and the suspension arms. There seems to be quite a bit of play in them. Has anyone come up with any fixes for this? I can't imagine that a car meant for high speeds handles this much suspension slop very well.

Also (but I'm sure this should go in a different sub) a lot of the drive line components don't seem to be manufactured with a high tolerance. I noticed that even the DIFF Drive Cups seem to have quite a bit of "wobble" to them.

So how does everyone tighten everything up??
The threaded portion of the bottom bolt for the rear hub carrier is a little too short which prevents the nut from snugging down properly on the side of the arms. One or two 3mm ID shims and you should be golden.
1674935710314.png

For the top pin of the rear hub carrier, you can either just crank down really hard on the nut or, what I like to do, put some 1mm shims over the ends of the ball joint left and right. This allows for a better pressure distribution across a larger surface area on either side of the hub carrier. (This is my KEXB, but it'll do for illustration purposes):
1674935977223.png


To take a bit of slop out of the tie rod at the bulkhead, I like to put a small piece of fuel tubing over the threaded end of the screw before putting the nut on the end.
1674936079986.png


And finally (though I'm sure you're either already aware of this or have already addressed this area but I thought it worth mentioning as it ties into the overall slop of the suspension/wheel carrier as a whole), tighten up any existing slop at the 17mm wheel hexes with 8x12x0.1mm shims either behind the hex or outer bearing.

That should help a lot with the rear. The front is a bit more involved and, to my mind, can't really betaken care of properly without some aftermarket parts. I'm not saying it can't be improved upon in a similar fashion, I'm just of the opinion that I'd rather spend a few quid replacing some of the parts rather than spending hours trying to improve what's there. But that's just me. YMMV :)

Edit: Oh right, the drive line. Replace any Safe-D cups which you'll find at your front/rear diff inputs. They wobble, and there's nothing that can be done about it. Scorched, Tekno, M2C, etc. all make proper hardened steel 5mm to 8mm ball cups. The sooner, the better.

The diff output cups are a different story. You'll first need to inspect whether they're wobbling in the diff or if the diff is wobbling in the bulkhead (since the car is new, I'd assume the latter). If the cups are wobbling in the diff, you probably need a new diff housing. If the diff wobbles in the bulkhead, it's possible that the bulkhead cover doesn't press down firmly on the bearings that support the diff. You can remedy this with a small strip of duct tape on the appropriate shoulder of the diff cover (worked for me anyways, perhaps someone else has a different solution).

The stock drive shafts are ok to start with, but they're relatively flimsy and not very well suited for high speed endeavors. It helps to add small pieces of fuel tubiing inside the hub carriers, diff and ball cups to take up most of the slop, but not too tight. At some point it will probably be advisable to upgrade all drive shafts, CVDs and dog bones with Ti and/or CF aftermarket shafts.

That should take care of most of it. If I missed something, lemme know. Hope this helps :)

I'll address the rest in a sec....BRB
 
Last edited:
The threaded portion of the bottom bolt for the rear hub carrier is a little too short which prevents the nut from snugging down properly on the side of the arms. One or two 3mm ID shims and you should be golden.
View attachment 273676
For the top pin of the rear hub carrier, you can either just crank down really hard on the nut or, what I like to do, put some 1mm shims over the ends of the ball joint left and right. This allows for a better pressure distribution across a larger surface area on either side of the hub carrier. (This is my KEXB, but it'll do for illustration purposes):
View attachment 273677

To take a bit of slop out of the tie rod at the bulkhead, I like to put a small piece of fuel tubing over the threaded end of the screw before putting the nut on the end.
View attachment 273678

And finally (though I'm sure you're either already aware of this or have already addressed this area but I thought it worth mentioning as it ties into the overall slop of the suspension/wheel carrier as a whole), tighten up any existing slop at the 17mm wheel hexes with 8x12x0.1mm shims either behind the hex or outer bearing.

That should help a lot with the rear. The front is a bit more involved and, to my mind, can't really betaken care of properly without some aftermarket parts. I'm not saying it can't be improved upon in a similar fashion, I'm just of the opinion that I'd rather spend a few quid replacing some of the parts rather than spending hours trying to improve what's there. But that's just me. YMMV :)

Edit: Oh right, the drive line. Replace any Safe-D cups which you'll find at your front/rear diff inputs. They wobble, and there's nothing that can be done about it. Scorched, Tekno, M2C, etc. all make proper hardened steel 5mm to 8mm ball cups. The sooner, the better.

The diff output cups are a different story. You'll first need to inspect whether they're wobbling in the diff or if the diff is wobbling in the bulkhead (since the car is new, I'd assume the latter).

I'll address the rest in a sec....BRB
Great minds think alike because I've done pretty much everything you said. The rear hubs though were way off compared to that shaft that holds them onto the arms. I could visibly wobble it. So I drilled it out and put 2 brass inserts in there that were drilled to the exact diameter of the shaft. It helps, but now I don't know how to fix the arms where they connect to the center.

Has anyone figured out a kit for upgraded/better/aftermarket turnbuckles that don't wobble as much?
 
Great minds think alike because I've done pretty much everything you said. The rear hubs though were way off compared to that shaft that holds them onto the arms. I could visibly wobble it. So I drilled it out and put 2 brass inserts in there that were drilled to the exact diameter of the shaft. It helps, but now I don't know how to fix the arms where they connect to the center.

Has anyone figured out a kit for upgraded/better/aftermarket turnbuckles that don't wobble as much?
The rear are alright, imho. The front tie rods I replaced with aluminum aftermarket bits from GPM.
 
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