Talion LiPo Battery setting?

Jam Rock

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In reading the manual it says, on page 6, that if using LiPo batteries you must set the correct mode on the ESC to prevent battery damage. I am using 2 3s batteries at 11.1 V each. Do I need to change any settings? I also have 2 6S batteries coming will I need to make changes for those? Also, how exactly DO i change the battery settings lol. This manual is about useless.

While running I had an issue with the Talion losing power, not completely, but it would start driving at half the top speed all of a sudden. If I opened it up and turned it on and off I would get full power back. Any ideas? I wrote to arrma support to see if they could offer any suggestions or whether I had some sort of defective part. I also had a cracked body right behind the rear mounts when I first opened the box. I wrote them about that as well.

One more thing, is there anything you guys would suggest doing immediately to prolong the life of my Talion? Thanks!
 

Walter

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The ESC should come preset for LiPo's but it's probably a good idea to double check the settings to be safe. That will also help you become familiar with the available settings and how to access/change them.

The information you want is on the bottom of page seven in your manual. I've also copied it below.

The SC settings are accessed and changed through a series of short presses or longer press and hold of the button on the ESC switch. The setting/variables should be confirmed with beeps and light flashes so you know where you are.

upload_2016-1-15_8-42-43.png
 

mslstudio22

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it comes ready for lipos. the cut off for low voltage is 3.2v per cell which is way too low. never run your lipos below 3.5v per cell. if your car is shutting down early its probly your battery, not the esc
 

springboardz

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I stuck an LVM (Low Voltage Monitor) on my Talion to assist with monitoring the voltage levels of the battery. If you wait for the LVC (low voltage cutoff), then you've gone past the 20% rule. (never run your LiPo to less than 20% capacity).

However, though the low voltage cutoff breaks the 20% rule, it's not as terrible as it sounds. While the LiPo pack is being used (especially during intense runs), the actual voltage of the pack is different than its delivered voltage (hopefully that makes sense). This means that when LVC kicks in and you disconnect the battery pack, you should wait about 15 minutes and then make a voltage check with one of these to determine its real remaining capacity. One exception to this (and I'm sure there are other exceptions): when you are not running the LiPo very hard and it is being slowly drained, you run the risk of significantly overdrawing your LiPo and potentially causing permanent damage (ie puffing or worse).

The problem with LVM's is that they're not waterproof (not that I know of, anyway)
 

justatree

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is there any way you can stop it before lipo cutoff? If I got low voltage monitor, will it sound or beep when it gets to 3.5v per cell?
thanks
 

Dustin Mustangs

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I stuck an LVM (Low Voltage Monitor) on my Talion to assist with monitoring the voltage levels of the battery. If you wait for the LVC (low voltage cutoff), then you've gone past the 20% rule. (never run your LiPo to less than 20% capacity).

However, though the low voltage cutoff breaks the 20% rule, it's not as terrible as it sounds. While the LiPo pack is being used (especially during intense runs), the actual voltage of the pack is different than its delivered voltage (hopefully that makes sense). This means that when LVC kicks in and you disconnect the battery pack, you should wait about 15 minutes and then make a voltage check with one of these to determine its real remaining capacity. One exception to this (and I'm sure there are other exceptions): when you are not running the LiPo very hard and it is being slowly drained, you run the risk of significantly overdrawing your LiPo and potentially causing permanent damage (ie puffing or worse).

The problem with LVM's is that they're not waterproof (not that I know of, anyway)
Resting voltage is the term you are referring to and that is when you should follow the 20% rule. My pack comes up 0.2-0.3v 10 minutes or so after I am done.

Voltage alarms or monitors are pretty easy to waterproof. You can seal them with a liquid tape (what I did) or ptotect them from water with something like corrosionx.
 

ZW99GT

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I ran my Senton on 3s at the track yesterday on an indoor track with a Traxxas 5000mah battery. I was just about to pull it in the check voltage, when it hit LVC.

About 30 minutes after, I threw it on the charger and it read 10.49V, 2 cells at 3.50 and 1 at 3.49. Sounds to me like it did its job and cutoff at the perfect spot.
 

Dustin Mustangs

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Ideally a lipo never goes below 3.7v resting voltage. I would personally panic a bit if I found one of my cells sitting at 3.5v but maybe I am a bit anal in this regard. That is the problem with an unadjustsble LVC, they are typically set for an emergency type protection, not something that is a good idea to hit every cycle. This is where an adjustable alarm comes in handy.

Also, you shouldn't let your lipo sit at 3.7v or lower for any longer than needed.
 
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Rob Austin

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(One more thing, is there anything you guys would suggest doing immediately to prolong the life of my Talion?) Thanks![/QUOTE]

Have fun... I love to bash and even run with octane 5th and 8th scale trucks. When you abuse it and treat it like crap that's when you start to have all sorts of issues. As much as I love to wrench on these things I still like being outside vs the work table. Take my advice have fun enjoy the hobby and you will prolong the life of your Talion or any decent RC vehicle. There will always be something bigger, better, faster but who cares.
 

justatree

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So you all suggest what voltage for lipo cutoff 3.7 or 3.5?
 

Dustin Mustangs

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3.7v per cell is normally* the magic number, and again this is a resting voltage. So try setting your alarm to 3.6v and run until it sounds. Check the voltage an hour later because it will slowly rise after use. If it is higher than 3.7, drop the alarm a tenth or two and try again until you get it to rest at 3.7v.

I say normally because the rule is you never want take out more than 80% of a lipo's capacity. A nice charger will tell you how many mah it puts in to get a full charge and that is what is important, not volts per cell. It just so happens that a lipo at 20% capacity normally ends up being around 3.7v per cell. This is similar to a storage charge in that 3.85v per cell normally works out to a 50% charge which is the ideal storage condition.
 

Nomoney4rcparts

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One more thing, is there anything you guys would suggest doing immediately to prolong the life of my Talion? Thanks!

I would say clean and inspect your car after using. I have a short video about it.
 

Mettalist73

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In reading the manual it says, on page 6, that if using LiPo batteries you must set the correct mode on the ESC to prevent battery damage. I am using 2 3s batteries at 11.1 V each. Do I need to change any settings? I also have 2 6S batteries coming will I need to make changes for those? Also, how exactly DO i change the battery settings lol. This manual is about useless.

While running I had an issue with the Talion losing power, not completely, but it would start driving at half the top speed all of a sudden. If I opened it up and turned it on and off I would get full power back. Any ideas? I wrote to arrma support to see if they could offer any suggestions or whether I had some sort of defective part. I also had a cracked body right behind the rear mounts when I first opened the box. I wrote them about that as well.

One more thing, is there anything you guys would suggest doing immediately to prolong the life of my Talion? Thanks!
 

Mettalist73

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In reading the manual it says, on page 6, that if using LiPo batteries you must set the correct mode on the ESC to prevent battery damage. I am using 2 3s batteries at 11.1 V each. Do I need to change any settings? I also have 2 6S batteries coming will I need to make changes for those? Also, how exactly DO i change the battery settings lol. This manual is about useless.

While running I had an issue with the Talion losing power, not completely, but it would start driving at half the top speed all of a sudden. If I opened it up and turned it on and off I would get full power back. Any ideas? I wrote to arrma support to see if they could offer any suggestions or whether I had some sort of defective part. I also had a cracked body right behind the rear mounts when I first opened the box. I wrote them about that as well.

One more thing, is there anything you guys would suggest doing immediately to prolong the life of my Talion? Thanks!
I’m having the same issue with a hobbywing esc as described all of you keep talking volts per cell that’s fine but the hobbywing esc is not that simple it reads low for poor discharge intermediate for ok discharge and high for high discharging battery’s
 

crankestein

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Revived from the dead, but its fine.

Not sure about your ESC, I run mine on Nicad setting so it can run 5S. To this day have had no problems, I can tell when its reaching the 3.7v cut-off.

Good luck
 

Warriator

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Have an original Raider but can't locate instructions for the ESC, particularly for lipo low voltage setting.
 

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