Locking center diff in Arrma Kraton?

[Gerald bobst]

Has anyone locked their Center diff in their arrma kraton

 

[RxMonkey]

Yes they sell locking spools. It’s generally a bad idea. There is no slipper clutch to save the drivetrain. On these Arrma trucks the center diff acts as a point of give to let it survive. Those who use lockers say you have to run only on pavement. If you try to off-road you’ll break parts. An easy way to try it is to put silly putty in the diff. It’ll lock the gears and is easily reversible. Use caution though. The next best thing is to use a really heavy diff oil. I’m going for 1 million for my next rebuild. It’ll be really tight but it can give in a bind.

 

[Paultro84]

Has anyone locked their Center diff in their arrma kraton

I have 1 Million in my center diff on my Outcast. I do a lot of trail running in the woods and it gives it much more 4x4 action. If one wheel comes off the ground it still sends power to the other. It cuts down on your turning radius if you don't have a strong servo though. It also helps keeping the tires from ballooning. I love the way it is now. I can ride wheelies for days cause there's no power loss to the rear when the front tires come up.

 

[Gerald bobst]

Yes they sell locking spools. It’s generally a bad idea. There is no slipper clutch to save the drivetrain. On these Arrma trucks the center diff acts as a point of give to let it survive. Those who use lockers say you have to run only on pavement. If you try to off-road you’ll break parts. An easy way to try it is to put silly putty in the diff. It’ll lock the gears and is easily reversible. Use caution though. The next best thing is to use a really heavy diff oil. I’m going for 1 million for my next rebuild. It’ll be really tight but it can give in a bind.

Yes I already did my diff and i used 500,000 or in my diff and work a lot better I'm I'm trying to get something a little heavier but thank you for your opinion or your information or knowledge

 

[Gerald bobst]

I have 1 Million in my center diff on my Outcast. I do a lot of trail running in the woods and it gives it much more 4x4 action. If one wheel comes off the ground it still sends power to the other. It cuts down on your turning radius if you don't have a strong servo though. It also helps keeping the tires from ballooning. I love the way it is now. I can ride wheelies for days cause there's no power loss to the rear when the front tires come up.

What brand is the differential and where did you get it

 

[Paultro84]

 

[Paultro84]

I think I bought it on Ebay.

 

[Gerald bobst]

I think I bought it on Ebay.

Thank you very much for the information

 

[Drtybird]

Have anyone thought of using a torsen diff or traction diff

 

[Mr.Duke]

Have anyone thought of using a torsen diff or traction diff

I just don't see anyone designing a durable torsen diff for a scale this small, due to the size of the diff cup. That's a ton of custom work to fit 6 worm gears and 12 worm gear pinions inside such a small space. We'd be talking pinion teeth the size of servo gear teeth, and a level of precision that would be needed to make it operate smoothly, is outside of anything I've seen in this hobby. Strength of gear material would also put it into titanium+ ($$$) territory.

 

[Drtybird]

What about the position smart diff or fionia tractive iv diff ? I know these are expensive but are they worth it? Or would it be better to build a good HR aluminum diff and just learn how to use the oils

 

[Mr.Duke]

For stock power level I see nothing wrong (design wise) with the factory Arrma diffs (even the plastic cups.
I'd have to go with simplicity on this one and tune through fluid viscosity and strategically placed shims. I rely on stock components running a 60/500/20 setup (always on 6s) and the only diff parts I find myself replacing are 43t crown gears and bearings.

 

[olds97_lss]

I just don't see anyone designing a durable torsen diff for a scale this small, due to the size of the diff cup. That's a ton of custom work to fit 6 worm gears and 12 worm gear pinions inside such a small space. We'd be talking pinion teeth the size of servo gear teeth, and a level of precision that would be needed to make it operate smoothly, is outside of anything I've seen in this hobby. Strength of gear material would also put it into titanium+ ($$$) territory.

They did make torsen diffs back in the day for 1/8th buggies. They weren't overly strong though, so kind of a nitro upgrade and I'm pretty sure it was for the front/rear diffs only as it would kind of defeat the purpose of it as a center diff. If I remember right, torsens lock when under power, the off power, they free up and allow the left/right wheels to turn at different speeds.

 

[Drtybird]

I will agree with you. The more I dig on info just upgrading the diff cups seems to be the best. I want the 'bullet proof' setup for my bashing and good tuning for the Trac. I want to spend the money the best way and simplicity is it. Thank you

 

[Jake H.]

I found some 20million for my center diff and its perfect. basically locked but still moves if it has to.

 

[Wmorgan]

I found some 20million for my center diff and its perfect. basically locked but still moves if it has to.

20M!?! Did you use a butter knife and let settle for a week?? ?
Man, that's gotta be some thick stuff to work with.

 

[Jake H.]

20M!?! Did you use a butter knife and let settle for a week?? ?
Man, that's gotta be some thick stuff to work with.

Haha actually grabbed it out by hand and packed it in there nice and tight then smacked it back together. Reminded me of the glue that holds a new credit card to the paper. Works awesome though. the 1m was good for a run but then loosens up too much for me.

 

[Wmorgan]

For stock power level I see nothing wrong (design wise) with the factory Arrma diffs (even the plastic cups.
I'd have to go with simplicity on this one and tune through fluid viscosity and strategically placed shims. I rely on stock components running a 60/500/20 setup (always on 6s) and the only diff parts I find myself replacing are 43t crown gears and bearings.

I tried the 60/500/30 in Kraton and Noto and found that i didn't like it for how i bash. Went to 30/200/10 and enjoying much more. The lesson for me is that there is no perfect combo...you just gotta try different oils and figure out what you like.
I also learned that the crown and input gears get worn down pretty easy and on first oil change on Kraton i didn't even notice. Was starting to get frustrated as i couldn't figure out the issue. Then i compared to new gears and realized how worn down they were. On that note, does anyone make upgrade crown and input gears for Arrma like Tekno? Just something with better metallurgy that'll last longer?