Loctite

[Dandle]

Hi,
just thought I'd ask your opinions and give mine on the loctite Arrma use. I have seen loads of threads where people are quoting colours and saying don't use red etc but I'm sure they don't realise the different number of loctites on the same colours and its the number that is important to the application.

I have been replacing the bearings on my Kraton and its ridiculous the amount of heat need to undo M4 screws that are put together with 243 medium strength loctite. Even loctite themselves say this is for threads larger than 1/4" diameter and to put it on these buggies with 2, 2.5 and 3mm allen head screws is madness. I've rebuild my buggy and used loctite 222 which is what we use in aircraft cabins, on seats and monuments subject to high vibration. I know they wont loosen off unless i undo them and at least I can undo the screws without the need to resort to heat and potentially ruining the heads or having to drill one out as I had to do with the servo saver this time.

Do any of you guys have any experience using loctite other than RC and what are your opinions?

 

[Kingleo619]

Not really used other loctite just the blue one. I know red which Arrma uses strip screws, I’ve replaced all screws after my first tear down.

 

[Clubin]

I use locktite blue in everything. Red I have but I never use it. As related to work I do Hvac, and never have a use for it.

 

[jondilly1974]

I only use Red at work when mounting something heavy above people, like safety chains on fixtures or roof mounted equipment that you don’t want coming loose, ever.

 

[magnetik]

Orange permatex is my go to nowadays. It has holding power of red but doesn't require heat to remove.

 

[Dandle]

I only use Red at work when mounting something heavy above people, like safety chains on fixtures or roof mounted equipment that you don’t want coming loose, ever.

That should been green stud lock then shouldn't it

 

[WoodiE]

For all my RC's regardless of scale, if the screws are going into metal I always use the blue loctite in a stick.

So much easier to work with and I've never had an issue with it.

 

[jondilly1974]

That should been green stud lock then shouldn't it

If you say so boss. ??

 

[Porschetech🇬🇪]

I’m a technician and I “rarely” use red in the automotive field. On the rare occasion I have used green but that’s practically permanent. I mainly use blue and I’m trying out the orange from permatex for the rc cars.

 

[BashingBrian]

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us...ts/blog/difference-between-threadlockers.html
So now you know which is the correct one for you..?

 

[MrTitanium]

I’ve used red in permanent applications where a torch is required for removal. The green was used for loose fits/clearances. Blue, well, we all know that it’s more of a forgiving nature. In aviation, we do not use threadlocking compound. We safety/lock wire where applicable, plus it’s a beauty when done properly.

 

[Porschetech🇬🇪]

I’ve used red in permanent applications where a torch is required for removal. The green was used for loose fits/clearances. Blue, well, we all know that it’s more of a forgiving nature. In aviation, we do not use threadlocking compound. We safety/lock wire where applicable, plus it’s a beauty when done properly.

I still use lock wire to this day. The older jags use it.

 

[slick2500]

I’ve used red in permanent applications where a torch is required for removal. The green was used for loose fits/clearances. Blue, well, we all know that it’s more of a forgiving nature. In aviation, we do not use threadlocking compound. We safety/lock wire where applicable, plus it’s a beauty when done properly.

I have never heard of this. Okay Google ?

 

[MrTitanium]

I have never heard of this. Okay Google ?

Pardon?

 

[Porschetech🇬🇪]

I have never heard of this. Okay Google ?

Pardon

 

[Dandle]

In aviation, we do not use threadlocking compound. We safety/lock wire where applicable, plus it’s a beauty when done properly.

It's used in civil aviation on some of the cabin components, mainly business and first class seats and it a recognised maintenance practice i.a.w the manufactures component maintenance manuals. It's normally only used where you have a taped thread though.

 

[Outcastblxnut]

I like the orange though I haven’t tried to remove it yet. I use the blue gel. I likey

 

[MrTitanium]

It's used in civil aviation on some of the cabin components, mainly business and first class seats and it a recognised maintenance practice i.a.w the manufactures component maintenance manuals. It's normally only used where you have a taped thread though.

I should have specified that we do not use threadlock on jet engine components, not aviation in general. Thanks Dandle??

I like the orange though I haven’t tried to remove it yet. I use the blue gel. I likey

I recently discovered the blue gel and I’m loving too. More user-friendly than the traditional liquid.

 

[slick2500]

Pardon?

I never heard of safty/lock wire before, I had to Google it.

 

[SrC]

Blue gel I have also. Its expensive and you go through more in the end. LT 243 seems fine right now. 242 ok also, 243 works great on used hardware that's been loctited before and dirty or oily. Some say overkill and specs say 1/4" or larger, the 243 is strong enough for motor mounts and pinions and high load setscrews, and can also be used on lighter load areas. Best all around. I do use Red on my motor pinion grub and diff input cups. The setscrews get worn easily and need Red if you want to keep using the same one. I still do that. I can see what a loose motor set screw can do damage wise to expensive spurs gears. To each his own. As long as it is blue "something", you are good to go. I have a collection of diff. LT. The key to LT is you really don't need much at all. Many over use it. More just makes a mess of the hardware, and offers no more benefit. It needs to cure for 24 hours or it is useless and hardware may actually loosen faster than if no LT is used.