btosic
Active Member
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- Arrma RC's
My goal was to find setup that will be highly reliable on high performance 6S Kraton.
My considerations were driveline(shafts, diffs, gearboxes), efficient temperature management, structural integrity and performance.
My setup is:
-HW Max6 ESC with punch on 5
-HS 4092 1480kv motor with 22T pinion
-13200uF cap pack
-gensacearespammers 6S, 60/120C LiPo
-Alu braces, diff mount, servo mount, tower to tower
After instalation of Max6 and 4092 motor I left all bone stock to see week spots. I will cover problems numerically:
1. Alu braces, mounts and tower to tower were installed before ESC and motor.
2. First problem was with input gear and diff spur, motor has so much torque that it doesn't tolerate anything but perfect diff mash. Solution: I used 4 Tekno shims TKR1222 per gearbox for perfect mesh, but left/right arrangement of shims is different for every gearbox. I put 1 shim behind input gear.
3. I shimed all diffs with Mugen muge0206 shims. One large shim on the bottom and one shim on all 4 satellite gears. Mugen shims are thicker and all you need is one on every side.
4.Pinion gear is literally eaten if mash is too tight, take time to adjust is right.
5. I found that 22T pinion is pretty safe temperature wise even on grass, by the end of pack temperature is around 150-160F if going really hard.
6. ESC with a good cap pack has absolutely no problem with this setup on 6S, I think that Max6 has so much more to give, temperature is never higher than 100-120F.
7. I started to use lithium grease on F and R gearbox, I use HQ lithium grease gor bearings, I fill gearbox, and run the car, excess of grease will go out on input gear side, I wipe it, and it is good to go.
8. This setup, if hard on throttle, will eat driveshaft pins. I will post a photo of mine. I can't find solution that is cost effective but buying a new one. On the other hand, dogbone pins F and R are fine.
9. After problems with bearings on central diff(they fell apart) I bought industrial grade NSK Japan bearings, a had absolutely zero problems. After that I changed all critical bearing with NSK.
10. O rings on shocks and diffs are very soft, go to your local hydraulic supplier and ask for O ring for high pressure hydraulics. They are very precise fit and are so much better quality, like 100 times better. 4,5x1,5mm for diffs and 2x3,5mm for shocks.
My conclusion is that with very cost effective mods, Kraton can be highly reliable with this setup. I waited for 40+ packs to post my setup, so I can be sure that everything is holding nice and tite.
My considerations were driveline(shafts, diffs, gearboxes), efficient temperature management, structural integrity and performance.
My setup is:
-HW Max6 ESC with punch on 5
-HS 4092 1480kv motor with 22T pinion
-13200uF cap pack
-gensacearespammers 6S, 60/120C LiPo
-Alu braces, diff mount, servo mount, tower to tower
After instalation of Max6 and 4092 motor I left all bone stock to see week spots. I will cover problems numerically:
1. Alu braces, mounts and tower to tower were installed before ESC and motor.
2. First problem was with input gear and diff spur, motor has so much torque that it doesn't tolerate anything but perfect diff mash. Solution: I used 4 Tekno shims TKR1222 per gearbox for perfect mesh, but left/right arrangement of shims is different for every gearbox. I put 1 shim behind input gear.
3. I shimed all diffs with Mugen muge0206 shims. One large shim on the bottom and one shim on all 4 satellite gears. Mugen shims are thicker and all you need is one on every side.
4.Pinion gear is literally eaten if mash is too tight, take time to adjust is right.
5. I found that 22T pinion is pretty safe temperature wise even on grass, by the end of pack temperature is around 150-160F if going really hard.
6. ESC with a good cap pack has absolutely no problem with this setup on 6S, I think that Max6 has so much more to give, temperature is never higher than 100-120F.
7. I started to use lithium grease on F and R gearbox, I use HQ lithium grease gor bearings, I fill gearbox, and run the car, excess of grease will go out on input gear side, I wipe it, and it is good to go.
8. This setup, if hard on throttle, will eat driveshaft pins. I will post a photo of mine. I can't find solution that is cost effective but buying a new one. On the other hand, dogbone pins F and R are fine.
9. After problems with bearings on central diff(they fell apart) I bought industrial grade NSK Japan bearings, a had absolutely zero problems. After that I changed all critical bearing with NSK.
10. O rings on shocks and diffs are very soft, go to your local hydraulic supplier and ask for O ring for high pressure hydraulics. They are very precise fit and are so much better quality, like 100 times better. 4,5x1,5mm for diffs and 2x3,5mm for shocks.
My conclusion is that with very cost effective mods, Kraton can be highly reliable with this setup. I waited for 40+ packs to post my setup, so I can be sure that everything is holding nice and tite.
