Senton Looking for mid range brushless system for arrma senton mega

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No way I would put a motor combo in this truck that cost just as much as it did new. It's not worth it. Plenty of $80 setups can run 3s. Beyond 3s is just a waste in this truck.

I tend agree. If money is an issue, then don’t do it. If it isn’t, then why not? With the right motor and gearing 4s is definitely doable. @Jerry-rigged ran 4s I believe. Don’t quote me on that :)
 
Yeah, I have a BLX185 in my Granite Mega 4x4, and run it mostly on 4s. Last time I ran it, it ate one of the diff gears... LOL I need to get the BLX3s diffs for my truck.

(Actually, I have a blown shock too. Not sure if it is just a o-ring, or something more serious, as I have not had time to tear into it. My SCT410 rebuild it taking all my RC time these days...)

But back on topic - I would suggest a MINIMUM a 3660 sized motor, if not a 3670 or 3674. This truck may be all plastic, but it is still a lot of truck for a 3650 motor to lug around. Personally I think that if 3s is the goal, a 3670 around 2600-3000kv would be sweet. Grab a GoolRC/Racerstar motor, with a Hobbywing MAX10SCT esc, and you will be golden.

On, and because no-one else as mentioned it, go ahead and start ordering the diffs, slipper assembly, and spur from the BLX3s trucks. The Mega diff slipper and spur can only handle mild power - they WILL break on you if you go brushless 3s.
 
Yeah, I have a BLX185 in my Granite Mega 4x4, and run it mostly on 4s. Last time I ran it, it ate one of the diff gears... LOL I need to get the BLX3s diffs for my truck.

(Actually, I have a blown shock too. Not sure if it is just a o-ring, or something more serious, as I have not had time to tear into it. My SCT410 rebuild it taking all my RC time these days...)

But back on topic - I would suggest a MINIMUM a 3660 sized motor, if not a 3670 or 3674. This truck may be all plastic, but it is still a lot of truck for a 3650 motor to lug around. Personally I think that if 3s is the goal, a 3670 around 2600-3000kv would be sweet. Grab a GoolRC/Racerstar motor, with a Hobbywing MAX10SCT esc, and you will be golden.

On, and because no-one else as mentioned it, go ahead and start ordering the diffs, slipper assembly, and spur from the BLX3s trucks. The Mega diff slipper and spur can only handle mild power - they WILL break on you if you go brushless 3s.
i found agood hobbywing combo max 10 SCT with 3200Kv but I'm worried because it's 5mm shaft motor and i need to keep the gear mashing on the right way because I have to use another pinion.
 
Hello every one I'm new in the hobby , I've got my new arrma senton mega 4x4 and looking to upgrade it to brushless , I will run it on 3s (asphalt speed run) and 2s ( off road and bashing)

I was thinning about this combos

- Castle Creations Sidewinder SCT 3800KV Motor
- Hobbywing ezrun max10 3300KV Motor
- Hobbywing ezrun max10 4000KV Motor

what's the recommended on and which one should I choose?
I would so the 6s setup that Arrma puts in the Senton anyway, It's a no brainer!
 
I would so the 6s setup that Arrma puts in the Senton anyway, It's a no brainer!
You can only push 1/10 diffs so far before you just end up with pieces. How are they running a BLX185/2050kv 1/8th system in that thing without upgrading the diffs/axles to all steel? That thing has to fly apart nearly every run.
 
Looking at the parts explosions for both, they both use plastic diffs, different tooth count and the BLX has a different input. I'm surprised plastic/composite can hold up to 6S power.

The 6s Senton has plastic diffs? No way. The new 3s one that is coming out does but I don’t think the 6s one does. I assumed it was like the Typhon.
 
The 6s Senton has plastic diffs? No way. The new 3s one that is coming out does but I don’t think the 6s one does. I assumed it was like the Typhon.
According to the parts explosion, they are plastic/composite in the BLX senton.

Geez... I'm an idiot. I was clicking on the first one on the list not realizing there was a 3S and 6S BLX.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/support/downloads/SENTON/BLX/CURRENT

Sorry about that. I was used to the outcast page where there are two listed, but the same truck, just two colors/part numbers.
 
Man, now that I"m looking at it, the BLX3S esc/3200kv motor (at least the motor) would have been a nice alternative to the 3500kv traxxas motor I cooked.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR390214

Anyone got the specs on the BLX100?
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR390069

Found them, would think they would list specs on the purchase page:
https://www.arrma-rc.com/power-systems/latest/blx100

Similar to the EZRUN MAX10/3200kv combo, it says the esc is rated 120A?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbyw...3660sl-motor-combo-3200kv-hwa38010200/p607213
 
Man, now that I"m looking at it, the BLX3S esc/3200kv motor (at least the motor) would have been a nice alternative to the 3500kv traxxas motor I cooked.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR390214

Anyone got the specs on the BLX100?
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR390069

Found them, would think they would list specs on the purchase page:
https://www.arrma-rc.com/power-systems/latest/blx100

Similar to the EZRUN MAX10/3200kv combo, it says the esc is rated 120A?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbyw...3660sl-motor-combo-3200kv-hwa38010200/p607213
yes . that's what i was talking about previously . but I will face an issue with 5mm shaft and new penion gear . how i mesh the gears without drilling extra holes in gearbox compartment
 
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yes . that's what i was talking about previously . but I will face an issue with 5mm shaft and new penion gear . how i mesh the gears without drilling extra holes in gearbox compartment

You slot the holes. It’s not hard. I just used a drill and played connect the dots.
 
So how long are we wagering before he posts about needing to upgrade diff and spur gears? I'm saying 2 days post install. :LOL:
 
I'm going to put my 2 cents in here ...

I have 2 Mega trucks ... One I've had since they first came out.

Recent upgrade is that both trucks have the 3S BLX diffs. Otherwise, everything is stock... IE: Original Spurs and slippers. Before the upgrade, I never once snapped an input gear.

1st Mega runs a GoolRC3650/3900kv, with 22t pinion on 2S.
For the last couple months, I've been running a 3650/4300kv with the same pinion. This truck (Senton) primarily runs at a track.

2nd Mega runs a GoolRC 3650/3300kv, with a 17t pinion on 3S. This is the Granite version pushing big monster truck tires.
In the next week or three, a new GoolRC 3660/3300kv is coming for this truck to play around with the differences.

These brushless setups are cheap at 40.00 delivered, and I've had great luck with them. I fried one ESC, but it was my fault as I soaked it with water(cleaning).

I should add that both trucks have the motor mounts slotted as I didn't like the mesh of the predrilled holes. Also, they both have the chassis slot cutout to release debris.

I love the Mega line, and run these trucks almost daily.

Again, just my thoughts and personal experience.
 
My first BL motor was the Castle 1406-4600 Kv, which I ran on 2s and a 17t pinion. Spur held up fine. One day I decided to try 3s with that motor and it stripped the spur in about 10 seconds Could it have been the mesh or debris that caused it? Maybe. I got a new spur and adjusted the punch on my esc. That helped and it was really fast on 3s. I actually went down to a 14t pinion it was so fast. But I was having major heat issues on 3s. After my experience with 3s I didn't want to go back with 2s so I dropped in the Castle 1410-3800Kv motor, went back to a 17t pinion and ran it on 3s. Eventually I stripped another spur and that's when I decided to change to a 32p pinion and spur. So I really only went through 2 stock spurs before I threw in the towel. I am almost certain that if I had stayed on 2s the stock spur would have been fine.

Going to the 32p pinion and spur generates a lot more torque than the 48p gears. That's when I started breaking input shafts and breaking/grinding teeth off the input pinion gear. So I would suggest to anyone that goes with a 32p pinion/spur setup (whether the new BLX or modded Yeti,etc.) to upgrade the diffs to the new BLX diffs.

Anyway, I think you can run 2s all day long on the stock Mega. 3s is where you run the risk of spur damage and input shaft damage.
 
i would like to thank you guys for your support , this addicted hobby is not only draining out your batteries but your money too:) , i will keep up(y)(y) .
 
Going to the 32p pinion and spur generates a lot more torque than the 48p gears. That's when I started breaking input shafts and breaking/grinding teeth off the input pinion gear. So I would suggest to anyone that goes with a 32p pinion/spur setup (whether the new BLX or modded Yeti,etc.) to upgrade the diffs to the new BLX diffs.

Anyway, I think you can run 2s all day long on the stock Mega. 3s is where you run the risk of spur damage and input shaft damage.

The motor makes the torque, not the gears. The bigger teeth, though will transfer more torque, though, which will stress the diff input.

The weakest link is always what breaks. Stock, the weak link is the spur. Upgrade that, the next weak link is the diff input shaft. Fix that, and the teeth on the input fail.
 
I stand corrected, but my point is the diffs will see more torque with 32p spur and pinion gears.
 
I really like 3660 motors but most I have run are very hard on other parts (driveshafts, diffs etc.). The power is great hardly any heat issues except pushing them too hard just like most want to do with any motor (thinking I can squeeze more out). If you can get away with it try a 3650 motor first but get a good esc say one that might be 4s capable Hobbbywing Max10 (120a) Hobbywing SC8 are good options. Reason being a good high amp esc will take you into possibility of using larger motors less worry about thermal shutdown (real waterproofing also). Motors (IMHO) can almost be had almost a dime a dozen (around $20 more or less) for general bashing example Goolrc motors.
 
I agree. Unless the drive-train is rock solid, ether a 3650 or 540 4 pole brushless motor would be the way to go.

Best regards,
Brian
 
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