Senton Looking to purchase an Arrma tomorrow. Need advice

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Dapr

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So right now I own a highly modified Redcat Volcano. The chassis will not handle the electronics I have in in. Basically I'm looking to move all my electronics to a new chassis. I've been dabbling in RC for a few years and really like to do speed runs and go off road.

I'm fairly mechanically skilled and good with electronics. I was considering building a Slash from scratch with all upgraded parts.

I would like to know the differences in chassis between the Senton Mega and 3S. I don't think going to the 6s is worth it in my case. I also really like the Typhon 3s, not sure if there's a similar chassis cheaper model to use as a roller. I'll be transferring over the following parts:

Basic 6S setup
Hobbywing 150A ESC
1900KV 4 pole brushless motor
Spektrum DX2E Active
Spektrum srs4210 with AVC
Proline mx28 with 12mm hex.

Where should I start for the best bang for my buck seeing as I'm pulling all electronics?
30349
 

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They are all good. I bought the Kraton and it is awesome but at the end of the day, it is your money being spent and if you like the 3s Typhon then buy that, at the end of the day it really doesn't matter a whole bunch to be honest. I think the typhon 3s is an awesome truck and one I would be happy to own.....so at the end of the day just buy the one you like the most at the time.
 
Well I'm trying to essentially find the best roller to throw parts at. Does the Mega have a slipper system or center diff? Otherwise the chassis looks identiL to the 3S. Saving $80 could go to a decent set of shocks instead of a ESC/Motor/Servo that I won't use.
 
There are only a few key differences between the Mega & BLX. The BLX has an aluminum motor mount & adjustable links. The ring & pinion gears of the diffs in the Mega are mod 1 & are all plastic. The BLX are mod 1.5 & have a metal shaft on the pinion. There is a metal shaft pinion available for the Mega as well. The spur on the Mega is a 48p 91t while the BLX is a 32p 57t - this is the greatest & most beneficial change. Both plastic spurs can get chewed up with the movement of the slipper assembly in the motor mount. But the 32p gears of the BLX spur transfers more power & is more efficient for the motor.

Now for worth wild upgrades. The shock will leak, period. There are very rare cases that they don't. There are 20+ shock threads here to support that. Thankfully, there are just as many shock options in those threads. The links you have on you Volcano will fit any 4x4 model, they do have a history of snapping on me - I had an all metal Volcano as well, ran mostly on 3 & 4s. The plastic links & pivots will eventually grind themselves to ovals. The links can also snap & break in numerous places. There are several ways to make cheap links for any 4x4 model using the long rod ends on this page: http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product-category/suspension-accessories/page/3/ short 4mm turnbuckles, & traxxas pivot balls. You will run into problems with the driveshafts if you are planning on 4s. HR's driveshafts seems to be a good bet, but they will kill any budget & Arrma haven't made their upgrades available yet. It's actually better in the long run to buy the straight BLX than it is to upgrade the Mega. You will run into part issues right off the bat considering most of the BLX parts are not available. You can always sell the motor/ESC/servo & come out in the black. They will sell for $80-90 in a heartbeat.
 
@Megasty pretty much covered it but running 6s in the 3s or Mega models is tall order. You would need metal driveshafts for sure and right now you’re looking at $130. The diffs are plastic and I think you would chop teeth off them. Even the plastic center driveshaft would be taxed pretty hard. You would also need 17mm wheel hexes. You should really be looking at one of the 6s BLX models and see if you can find a roller. The electronics you have would be more suited to them. If you want to stay 1/10 scale I would suggest a kit from Tekno or maybe the Proline MT.
 
I was looking at the MT410 and Profusion SC as well. Also I may just go to the LHS and build a slash chassis from the ground up.
 
I was looking at the MT410 and Profusion SC as well. Also I may just go to the LHS and build a slash chassis from the ground up.
I have a profusion I've yet to build as well as a MT410 that's down for a diff rebuild. I've owned 5 Slashes (2wds & 4x4s) & they all absolutely hate any kind of power. I only have 1 now that I'm rebuilding using this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-LCG-Chassis-Kit-Traxxas-Slash-VXL-4x4/233064428809 The truck I have right now only has 1 Traxxas part left on it which is the chassis - I've broken 8 of them, the last one in 4 pieces. I seen a Slash at my LHS for $1k that was built up using that aluminum chassis & it was the most awesome Slash I ever seen - even though I had most of its parts on mine. I had to get the chassis. The car is my 12-yr itch to say the least :ROFLMAO: A Slash with Traxxas parts is nothing but a money pit. There's no cheap way to make one that can even run 3S w/o a ton of problems. I added up the aftermarket parts I have on it & it barely broke $500 - that includes the aluminum chassis, rpm arms, MIP driveshafts, diffs, electronics, shocks, & other aluminum parts. Nothing will be Traxxas when I replace the chassis, not even the hinge pins. I have to say however that the 6S Senton is still a MUCH better truck.
 
Yeah, I was planning on using upgraded parts. I didn't want to shell out money for a platinum that I'd end up changing anyway.

I'm thinking a LCG build with long travel arms.

Aluminum is nice but it does get heavy. My Volcano's weight is probably why I keep shearing off parts.

Also since I already have all my electronics I think it would end up cheaper.

I like to tinker and would likely upgrade everything. I just wanted the best starting point.

I have a general aversion to Traxxas for some reason
 
Aluminum does weigh a bit more. The problem I had with the Slash is that it couldn't stay on the ground. I would run it with the mm2 2200kv system, it would catch air, flip, & that would be another busted chassis. It even had that problem with the 3s system. It only started to get more controllable when I added aluminum parts. If you're going to run power, you need the weight to hold it down. Otherwise, you'll just have a powered kite.
 
Aluminum does weigh a bit more. The problem I had with the Slash is that it couldn't stay on the ground. I would run it with the mm2 2200kv system, it would catch air, flip, & that would be another busted chassis. It even had that problem with the 3s system. It only started to get more controllable when I added aluminum parts. If you're going to run power, you need the weight to hold it down. Otherwise, you'll just have a powered kite.

I think a lot can be said for proper weight distribution and body choice. I'd likely use a buggy or small truck body with uncovered wheels.

My Volcano snaps dog bones and axle shafts like twigs. If there not snapped they are twisted 90 degrees. That torsional stress probably weakens the parts until they give.
30363
 
Not only did it snap teeth on 4s the e clip even flew off. I now have a dozen or so diff pinions.

I also have a large quantity of different mod1 pinions I'd like to use.
 

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I had the same problem with my Volcano's axles. The axles are junk & can't handle power, they even snapped on me on the stock truck. I had better luck after heat treating them but that car was just a all metal experiment of sorts. The diffs are sintered powder metal pressed into form. I stuck those same diffs in a Granite 4x4 with an Arrma 6s drivetrain after chopping up the chassis & bulkheads to fit it all. Of course I heat treated them too. It's held up to 4-6s abuse but I don't think they will survive long term.

If you want something that can handle 4-6s, you can stick with the 1/8 Arrma rollers or even go for something like this: https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJHHS or https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJHHT The diffs in these cars are phenomenal, hardened steel & machined spiral cut. This is the best bang 1/8s for your buck. The motor can handle 6s. The only problems are the servo is trash & the upper front arms bend too much. They fluctuate between $249-299. I have both & if I didn't have them already, I'd buy both again in a heartbeat. The stock ESC is limited to 4s but they both run pretty good on 4s - at least my kids think so. But I put a blx185 in both for the times I want to run them :LOL:
 
Another thought - Hobao sells 80% kits. These are assembled rollers, no electronics, clear body, unglued tires. Hobao are close to Arrma durability - better in some ways.

Their Truggy- throw on some MX3.8 and it will be very like a Kraton.
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGHGZ&P=ML
 
20kg I ended up picking up parts for a Slash buggy build. Spent too much. MIP shafts were not cheap!
 
Mine has the backslash look too. I just had to get another tekno driveshaft since I pretzeled the old one in that last wreck.
 
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