Losi DBXL-E 2.0 build

[abrc246]

Making progress on my DBXL-E 2.0 build. Rebuilt all the diffs with Fast Eddies and put them in the cups too. Went with 200k F / 1M C / 100k rear. Badlands MX43 are drilled and ready to be mounted. DGI 1” extenders installed. Spectrum S9110BL installed. Unfortunately DGI sent me 2” extenders instead of the servo arms (still no luck getting them to make it right). RadioLink radio installed. Losi aluminum chassis braces and servo saver installed. Body panels all shoe goo’d. 48T spur installed (took a bit of grinding to fit!). Next up drill holes in the Xtreme racing CF ESC mount for my XLX2 and solder on my QS8 connectors. Then just waiting on the 1100kv motor! Have the castle 2028 motor fans but just ordered the Integy cooler instead. Think I’ll start with an 18T pinion. Probably going to order some SMC batteries at some point here too. So pumped for its maiden voyage!

 

[MeHurricane]

Nice! One thing you might consider... Get a second wing (or two) and put that one away. You can't get a Fox wing after the fact and when they tumble the wing breaks easily. A clean Fox wing is desired by many. I'm building my Losi DBXLE 2.0 up and learning lots. Good Luck!
Hurricane

 

[abrc246]

….

 

[KevinC]

Nice brother.
I love my DBXL. It’s blinged up.
The hub extenders are a must me thinks.
Looking forward to some final build pics…!Keep us posted.

cheers,
kev

 

[abrc246]

got the 9700 SMC batteries for it. And a windshield!

 

[KevinC]

That window is cool, but it will break sooner than later unfortunately……I had the same one.

Try the 1/5 scale Arrma body retaining straps and clips…..like on the Kraton8S. You have to drill two small holes in the hood but you’ll never lose body clips again.

cheers,
kev

 

[abrc246]

That window is cool, but it will break sooner than later unfortunately……I had the same one.

Try the 1/5 scale Arrma body retaining straps and clips…..like on the Kraton8S. You have to drill two small holes in the hood but you’ll never lose body clips again.

cheers,
kev

Yea I figured the flex on the windshield wouldn’t last long but they’re cheap!

Great tip on the clips. I bought the 1/8 with that in mind, meant to order the 1/5 duh!

 

[KevinC]

I installed the window behind the two roll cage bars, I think that’s how it’s supposed to be…

 

[Dan B.]

Looks great! I’m getting one on the 25th if Santa can successfully navigate the Covid travel restrictions.
I’m having a surprisingly hard time finding info on the 2.0 Any thoughts you’d like to pass along? Tips, tricks, recommended upgrades/weak links, setups, etc? I’m super psyched, I’ve wanted one of these for a long time.
Anything you could share would be appreciated.
Nice truck!

 

[arrma only fans]

 

[abrc246]

Looks great! I’m getting one on the 25th if Santa can successfully navigate the Covid travel restrictions.
I’m having a surprisingly hard time finding info on the 2.0 Any thoughts you’d like to pass along? Tips, tricks, recommended upgrades/weak links, setups, etc? I’m super psyched, I’ve wanted one of these for a long time.
Anything you could share would be appreciated.
Nice truck!

Thanks! Tons of thoughts, I'll follow up later with what broke and what has been upgraded. Wanted to suggest joining the Facebook user groups for it though, had a lot of questions during my build that people over there were able to answer as fast as the folks here respond to Arrma questions. Great group of people. Second, would highly recommend looking at what people are selling there. I see a lot of these trade for around $1,000 that have barely been used (people get them and don't realize how big they are, some haven't even been run) with tons of upgrades...honestly wish I had done this because I could've saved about $2k. Will come back with more details later though.

BTW these do require a bit of machining so hope you have some basic tools (thinking a grinder and metal cutter).

 

[abrc246]

What I did off the bat (and just the opinions of one guy):
-Fast Eddy bearings all around. This is a MUST do, can't tell you how many folks I've heard from that had the stock bearings blow up on the first run and take out the difs with it. Easy $20 for peace of mind.
-Changed the dif fluids, take your pick but I went with 200k/1mm/100k
-XLX2 with 1100kv. Stock motor is decent with a better pinion but the stock ESC is undersized IMO for a vehicle this big and heavy. Plan at the very least on buying a Max5 of XLX2 even if you keep the stock motor. Also, QS8 connectors. Also BasherQueen mounting plate for the switch and Xtreme Racing carbon fiber dif cover / ESC mount.
-Motor fan - I bought the Castle one first but ended up buying one from Integy that is seems more robust.
-Went from stock 13/50 to 18/48. Everything I read said stock setup was sluggish, most folks run 18/50 (although with stock equipment not sure people go past 16/50?). More on this later. I had to grind the 48t spur to fit btw, PITA. In retrospect would probably say keep the stock spur to start with.
-I wasn't going to, but on the advice of several forum people running a similar Castle setup, switched to aluminum dif cases as with this much power the plastic ones just flex too much. Went with the ATOP ones off Amazon, I like them.
-DGI 1" wheel extensions (good luck getting DGI to send you the right part btw, not sure what's going on lately but they sent me the two inch ones and then never responded to my return request. Several other people on the FB forum had similar issues with wrong items being delivered. Weird).
-MX43 tires. Never ran this stock ones. Seemed like anyone who ran the stock tires blew them up if they tried to up the pinion or Motor/ESC.
-Upgraded the servo. Again take your pick but these are heavy vehicles and the stock unit is not up to the task with the MX43s.
-Aluminium front chassis brace, rear chassis brace, top plate, and servo saver. I had heard these were weak points so swapped them out right away. There's no center chassis brace so I think these are important upgrades given the size of the vehicle, could see why they were considered a weak point by many.
-I shoe goo'd my body since its expensive and the side panels are big and flimsy. Holding up GREAT. I also installed the K8s pins in the front so I won't loose them!
-FWIW I run all my cars with Radiolink stuff.
-Got a pair of SMC 9700s and and a pair of CNHL 9500s. I get about 11 minutes runtime with the SMCs and 9 minutes with the CNHLs.

Have about 5 runs on it now. By the third run the stock plastic front spindles cracked (hasn't been jumped btw, just running around a field). I bought the Losi aluminum front spindle and carrier set. Not terribly surprising given the wheel hub extenders and weight of this thing, but seems older 2.0s haven't had as much trouble here so not sure if something in production changed? Anyways I really like the aluminum ones and would recommend them off the bat. I also ordered the Vitavon rear hubs but haven't installed them yet as stock seems to be holding up fine (Losi discontinued their aluminum ones for the rear, go figure). Also there's a lot of talk about the shocks, like others my rear is sagging a bit. Not sure what to do, heard the AD shocks were too stiff so maybe need to play around with fluid.

The beast is quick but I wasn't thrilled with the performance. I have decided to upgrade to 12s instead. Ordered a Flier so should have that in next month. Going to replace the 1100kv with a Castle 800kv I have sitting in the drawer. Not sure what I'll gear yet. I think it'll be a better combo for the weight though. But plenty of people happy running 8s XLX2/1100kv at 18/50.

I really love this thing. Its a joy to work on given its roomy and big Its a blast to drive something this big. And it always attracts a crowd when you run it (so be prepared). The only thing that would make it better is if Losi sold it as a roller lol! And if it had a center brace (although a bunch of folks have fabricated one if you plan on launching it).

 

[Mike'sGN-Kraton]

Where can I order some of those shock covers?..thanks Mike

 

[abrc246]

Where can I order some of those shock covers?..thanks Mike

ebay

 

[Mike'sGN-Kraton]

Thanks... Have a link by any chance? Getting nowhere here.... Mike

 

[RC-Dude]

If you take the two rear plastic bushings and put them forward, and take the two front plastic bushing to the back you will achieve two things.

1. The rear toe gets smaller
2. The load on the servo gets reduced because you gain a bit of a mechanical advantage.

If you shorten the cable for the top light the servo gets a lot more power. You can easily test it in a dark room. The light does not flicker as much when working the servo. Just go straight from the esc to the receiverbox to the esc. Don't use the long way under the esc.

This is German, but pictures do not know any language:

DBXL-E2.0 Modifications Check out the cable modifications at about 11 minutes. Pictures show all.

If you speak German: Here a goldmine on chassis and steering setup.

 

[abrc246]

Decided to go 12S…

 

[abrc246]

Ready to test after Xmas!

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

If you take the two rear plastic bushings and put them forward, and take the two front plastic bushing to the back you will achieve two things.

1. The rear toe gets smaller
2. The load on the servo gets reduced because you gain a bit of a mechanical advantage.

If you shorten the cable for the top light the servo gets a lot more power. You can easily test it in a dark room. The light does not flicker as much when working the servo. Just go straight from the esc to the receiverbox to the esc. Don't use the long way under the esc.

This is German, but pictures do not know any language:

DBXL-E2.0 Modifications Check out the cable modifications at about 11 minutes. Pictures show all.

If you speak German: Here a goldmine on chassis and steering setup.

I can translate if he needs me to
Man, Yello here, that is nice and clean build