Losi Tenacity DB Pro Multi Surface Bash and Sends

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I think it's a badass little buggy. I was disappointed the turnbuckle split like it did but I'm going to chalk it up to a very abnormal landing in that gully. Chassis is 6061 but I bought the aluminum chassis braces. I'll install them tomorrow. I watched a lot of videos on this truck before I pulled the trigger and it looked solid. I'd like to hear what @razorrc broke on his ???
 
I think it's a badass little buggy. I was disappointed the turnbuckle split like it did but I'm going to chalk it up to a very abnormal landing in that gully. Chassis is 6061 but I bought the aluminum chassis braces. I'll install them tomorrow. I watched a lot of videos on this truck before I pulled the trigger and it looked solid. I'd like to hear what @razorrc broke on his ???
You know what I broke and she still kicking?????
You know what I broke and she still kicking?????
When I get a my kingheadz upgrades I believe it will be pretty much bullet proof
 
I think it's a badass little buggy. I was disappointed the turnbuckle split like it did but I'm going to chalk it up to a very abnormal landing in that gully. Chassis is 6061 but I bought the aluminum chassis braces. I'll install them tomorrow. I watched a lot of videos on this truck before I pulled the trigger and it looked solid. I'd like to hear what @razorrc broke on his ???

Rear outdrives lasted about 10 packs on 3S, then were pretty ovaled. Replace with SCTE parts, they fit and are a harder steel. Broke some SCT and MT bumpers (different on the DB I think), I think a body post (again different), I broke a front bulkhead, bent some of the hingepin braces (just hammered them straight).

It's average durability, nothing really bad, just don't expect it to be Arrma level. It's a copy of a TLR TEN-SCTE 1.0/2.0, but made with cheaper steel and aluminum. Diffs haven't broken on me, but some of them were 2 gear and every time I open them up after a few packs it's like glitter paint. So you can tell the diff gears are disintegrating. I went to 4 gear. Like I said, they use cheaper materials in these, the TLR-SCTE versions are higher quality steel.

Other things I don't like are that it's a pain to get to the front and rear diffs, you basically have to disassemble the whole front/rear end.

That's all the bad stuff I can think of off the top of my head. Don't get me wrong, there's a lot of good stuff too.
 
Rear outdrives lasted about 10 packs on 3S, then were pretty ovaled. Replace with SCTE parts, they fit and are a harder steel. Broke some SCT and MT bumpers (different on the DB I think), I think a body post (again different), I broke a front bulkhead, bent some of the hingepin braces (just hammered them straight).

It's average durability, nothing really bad, just don't expect it to be Arrma level. It's a copy of a TLR TEN-SCTE 1.0/2.0, but made with cheaper steel and aluminum. Diffs haven't broken on me, but some of them were 2 gear and every time I open them up after a few packs it's like glitter paint. So you can tell the diff gears are disintegrating. I went to 4 gear. Like I said, they use cheaper materials in these, the TLR-SCTE versions are higher quality steel.

Other things I don't like are that it's a pain to get to the front and rear diffs, you basically have to disassemble the whole front/rear end.

That's all the bad stuff I can think of off the top of my head. Don't get me wrong, there's a lot of good stuff too.
All of the diffs are 4 gears. And you sure you had a DB Pro and not the original Tenacity DB.
 
@bicketybam Did you BO any of the other aluminum like the carriers and spindle? I saw MIP made a nice looking driveshaft set.
I didn't. I'm going to wait until something breaks.
 
I have dumb :poop: on order for this thing including a couple mounts to experiment with.. How do you disable the "BUY NOW" button on every web site? :rolleyes::LOL:
I almost ordered all the hubs and spindles but then I saw the price ? Seriously, I want to keep it as light as possible. It's what makes the truck handle the way it does.
 
All of the diffs are 4 gears. And you sure you had a DB Pro and not the original Tenacity DB.

I have the original Tenacity MT with the $100 Proformance kit. I ran it as a MT basher and also as a SCT race truck.


The new Pro ones basically come with all of the Proformance parts already installed. And better electronics.

For the 2 gears vs 4 gears, through the lifetime of the Tenacity, some came with 2 gears, some came with 4 gears, basically was a QC thing depending on whether your truck was built on a Friday... :)

Hopefully they fixed that on the new Pro ones.
 
Last edited:
I have the original Tenacity MT with the $100 Proformance kit. I ran it as a MT basher and also as a SCT race truck.


The new Pro ones basically come with all of the Proformance parts already installed. And better electronics.

For the 2 gears vs 4 gears, through the lifetime of the Tenacity, some came with 2 gears, some came with 4 gears, basically was a QC thing depending on whether your truck was built on a Friday... :)

Hopefully they fixed that on the new Pro ones.

Center diff:

20200322_113857.jpg
20200322_115057.jpg


Rear diff:

20200322_123215.jpg
20200322_123737.jpg

20200322_124146.jpg


Front diff:

20200322_143745.jpg
20200322_145323.jpg


All diffs had 4 gears, shims under the big gears, none on the outside of the small satellite gears. Dry tested them all and they felt nice and tight. I wouldn't shim the satellite gears. I went with a mix of 500k and 60k for the center because that is all I have access to. I'm hoping I hit 100k-150k. Front is now 60k and rear is now 30k. The stock fluid was pretty thin all the way around. Gear wear was nominal at best. I've run 8 packs through it so far.

Access to the center diff is super easy. The rear and front diffs were definitely more involved than an Arrma but nowhere near as bad as the Rock Rey, which I own. Diffs are the same size as the Rock Rey. It uses rubber sealed bearings throughout except for the steering posts which are bushings. Front and rear use CVD's and not dogbones.

I didn't find any bent hinge pins or damage of any kind. Spiral cut gears as you can see. The center dogbones were straight as an arrow and there were no bends in the chassis.

I'm not sure you can go with a bigger pinion than what it comes with. Here is the motor mount and pinion:

20200322_120204.jpg


Anyone that knows me knows I am a huge fan of Arrma. I have or haved owned multiple Granites, a BRCC and a Senton 3S. This buggy is far superior to those trucks. It has all metal diffs, including ring and pinion, a center diff with no slipper (a big problem area for the 3S/4S Arrmas) and CVD's instead of plastic wheel driveshafts. It is what it is. You also get a usable radio and a Telemetry/AVC receiver. I find the truck to be very durable so far but feel free to watch my video and judge for yourself. @razorrc did not have the truck I have l, but personal differences aside I know he knows what he is talking about. But keep in mind he did not have or drive the truck that I have. I feel he can not adequately judge it. There are a TON of video on YouTube and almost all are positive. Check RC Driver Online and CCxRC for their reviews.
 

This is what I was talking about with regards to the diff metal. The diff fluid is pretty dark for 8 packs and more metallic looking than higher quality metal gears would have.

In one of your other pics you can see one of the outdrives starting to oval out. The wear will accelerate as it gets worse, because the drive pins will tend to get stuck in that one spot.

Anyway, it's a decent truck, if it weren't I would have sold mine by now. I think the price is fair for what you get, because it clearly has a lot more upgrades than a plastic 3S/4S Arrma. IMO, upgrades needed are captured wheel hexes, TLR seals for the shock caps (instead of those stupid bladders), TEN-SCTE outdrives for the rear diff.

Quite honestly, this truck is pretty much the same as the TEN-SCTE 1.0 from 5 years ago. People get impressed because they've never seen a TEN-SCTE before, but for me I'm kinda meh, it's OK. It's a TEN-SCTE, but worse. So... ?‍♂️

The other thing I wanted to mention is that this is a different type of vehicle than your standard Arrma or Traxxas or whatever. It's a race kit they turned into an RTR. It's not really meant as a backflippin', send it 30 feet in the air type of vehicle. It really shines more on the ground or at the track with track-style jumps.

My opinion anyway.
 
Last edited:
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top