Losing right rear wheel

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Dark_RC_Corpses

Active Member
Messages
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Location
York, PA
Arrma RC's
  1. Nero
  2. Senton 6s
We have an issue with our Nero and I figured I'd bounce it off you guys. About 2 weeks ago we installed an Orion R8X pro ESC, Poseidon 1515-C22 motor, and carbon slipper clutch pads. Now the right rear wheel keeps getting stripped, the wheel nut coming loose as a result, and then the wheel comes off. This issue started after the install of those three components. The slipper pucks came as a pack of 3 and the exploded diagram of the transmission shows 3 pucks, but we only had 2 pucks on the trucks. Slipper tension was set per the Arrma manual. We are thinking this may be an issue with too much torque in the power system. Is this even possible? Has anyone else had this issue? What the heck could be causing it? It's been like this for 3 weeks and we're getting sick of poor Vinnie having to constantly either put new wheels on or put the Nero away for the day. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys and bash on.
 
We have an issue with our Nero and I figured I'd bounce it off you guys. About 2 weeks ago we installed an Orion R8X pro ESC, Poseidon 1515-C22 motor, and carbon slipper clutch pads. Now the right rear wheel keeps getting stripped, the wheel nut coming loose as a result, and then the wheel comes off. This issue started after the install of those three components. The slipper pucks came as a pack of 3 and the exploded diagram of the transmission shows 3 pucks, but we only had 2 pucks on the trucks. Slipper tension was set per the Arrma manual. We are thinking this may be an issue with too much torque in the power system. Is this even possible? Has anyone else had this issue? What the heck could be causing it? It's been like this for 3 weeks and we're getting sick of poor Vinnie having to constantly either put new wheels on or put the Nero away for the day. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys and bash on.


i had an issue like this..but tracked it back to a rear bearing that was packed up with fine dirt and was overheating..melting the wheel hexes...messed up 2 perfect new wheels like that...at any rate ..something to check ..
 
i had an issue like this..but tracked it back to a rear bearing that was packed up with fine dirt and was overheating..melting the wheel hexes...messed up 2 perfect new wheels like that...at any rate ..something to check ..
Thanks we will check that out.
 
We had also similar situation but with an normal Nero blue. The thread of the hub was damages by dirt while putting the nut on it.
Afterwards the nut was not able to pull tight and the wheel becomes loosen.
The Material of the original hub is not very stable...
 
We had also similar situation but with an normal Nero blue. The thread of the hub was damages by dirt while putting the nut on it.
Afterwards the nut was not able to pull tight and the wheel becomes loosen.
The Material of the original hub is not very stable...
Yeah we checked the hub axle and nut out it all looks good. We even put a new set of nuts on it all the way around. It all just seems odd that it all came about after we upped the power severely in it. That picture is 15 minutes after we got done doing the ESC motor and slipper upgrade.
 
We changed the hub to a new one and we all using lock nuts now for the Neros.
Same like the originals but with an inbuilt plastic part wich work like loctite blue.
Maybe an option..
 
We changed the hub to a new one and we all using lock nuts now for the Neros.
Same like the originals but with an inbuilt plastic part wich work like loctite blue.
Maybe an option..
Hmmm so they're like a nylock bearing retainer nuts. This intrigues me. Where do you buy them from?
 
Oh,... I guess at my dealer. Sometimes I go "shopping" there and "find" some usable parts. ;)

But I am from Germany, so I can't tell you where you can get them.
 
Aluminum wheels are an option too. If you're replacing that many plastic ones, the aluminum will pay for themselves soon enough.

If you still have the old electronics, put them back in and see what happens. If the problem disappears then you know you need to loosen the slipper.
 
Aluminum wheels are an option too. If you're replacing that many plastic ones, the aluminum will pay for themselves soon enough.

If you still have the old electronics, put them back in and see what happens. If the problem disappears then you know you need to loosen the slipper.
I thought about aluminum wheels. We might just back the slipper off anyway this Wednesday and see if that does it.
 
Or you might want to go up a hub size to 21mm that's what I did with my Fazon and you can get purple locktight from a motorcycle store that is less aggressive than red or blue I've been using that for 15 years on all my RC's and never had a problem. It holds but is easier to take apart. I used it on every nut and bolt.
 
Or you might want to go up a hub size to 21mm that's what I did with my Fazon and you can get purple locktight from a motorcycle store that is less aggressive than red or blue I've been using that for 15 years on all my RC's and never had a problem. It holds but is easier to take apart. I used it on every nut and bolt.
What are wheel options in 21mm? Last week we messed with the slipper and it seems fine now. Really odd how it works fine now. We even beat it some on the street and no stripped wheels.
 
My son and I have had this problem. Check the rim. They break around the hub. If you see a crack. That is your problem. I think as they spin the crack opens. And the nut will loosen up. Out of the 8 stock tires from Arrma. We have I think 6 that are broke at the hub. We put some pro-line big Joe's on. They have about the same height sidewalls as the stock tire. And balloon about as much as the stock tire.

My son and I have had this problem. Check the rim. They break around the hub. If you see a crack. That is your problem. I think as they spin the crack opens. And the nut will loosen up. Out of the 8 stock tires from Arrma. We have I think 6 that are broke at the hub. We put some pro-line big Joe's on. They have about the same height sidewalls as the stock tire. And balloon about as much as the stock tire.
 
My son and I have had this problem. Check the rim. They break around the hub. If you see a crack. That is your problem. I think as they spin the crack opens. And the nut will loosen up. Out of the 8 stock tires from Arrma. We have I think 6 that are broke at the hub. We put some pro-line big Joe's on. They have about the same height sidewalls as the stock tire. And balloon about as much as the stock tire.

My son and I have had this problem. Check the rim. They break around the hub. If you see a crack. That is your problem. I think as they spin the crack opens. And the nut will loosen up. Out of the 8 stock tires from Arrma. We have I think 6 that are broke at the hub. We put some pro-line big Joe's on. They have about the same height sidewalls as the stock tire. And balloon about as much as the stock tire.
I've had this problem too. Exactly like that. I only lost the wheel but once but I broke the rim three times. Arrma sent some new "hd" tires and wheels that may or may not have been thicker because they still broke.
 
Also just another 2 cents I can throw in as to my situation. I had this happen to a couple wheels with my Nero that I built. I was actually damaging the wheel at where the hex hub fits in like talked about in this post. I had stripped out several wheels and ruined the factory 17mm hex hubs I believe. I mean they had some marks and kept coming loose and I didn't want to keep toasting wheels to see if they where the problem. I ordered the Hot Racing 17mm hubs which also extend each side 5mm and has a serrated closed cap nut to keep dirt out and vote in nice so it doesn't spin off. What I didn't know is the 17mm hex is actually splined. Didn't see that printed anywhere but is a nice surprise as I have found splined hub/wheel combos tend to lock in better IMO. Was able to mount up some 3.8 Geodes and haven't spun anything off again since. I even did other upgrades for more power and the wheels stay planted to the hub plus I get the use my old Traxxas splined T handle tool for the wheels which I really like.
 
I've lost the right rear wheel on the Mojave 6S too. Happened the first time, the wheel's plastic hex was slightly stripped. I applied blue Loctite to the nut and put it back. Then it stripped completely the next run on 6S. :( Had checked beforehand that the nut was still tight.

Any suggestions on how to prevent further problems from arising? Going through wheels like that can be very expensive. :(
 
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