Lost Sight of Limitless Turning Around and Smacked Into A Rock

[Diem Turner]

Just got in from a good hour or so of passes. Car seems to be straighter and smoother than it has ever been. Maybe I should smack it into boulders more often when turning it around lol. There was a lot of people coming and going, so my runs were a bit shorter than usual and I couldn't leave it pinned for as long as I would have liked either. Also noticed I need to recalibrate my throttle in since its reading over 100% at full throttle. I am going to post my logs for today. I hit 2 PB's in both 6s and 8s. Go Pro was dead from not using it while the car was down, so I'll have to back these up with videos next time I am out. On this gearing(36/34) I believe the car should have gone at least 3-5 mph faster in both 6s and 8s, but the smaller run space and leaving it pinned for less time greatly affected that. I am also still perfecting how my PP is set as well. Hope everyone had a fun 4th and got some runs in as well!

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Happy to hear that all that wrenching wasn't all for nothing and that you now have a better car than you did before. From the logs it doesn't appear that PP is doing anything in your case. Here's Raz explaining how he calibrates it. Video is timecoded to start at the appropriate segment.

 

[GTRider610]

Happy to hear that all that wrenching wasn't all for nothing and that you now have a better car than you did before. From the logs it doesn't appear that PP is doing anything in your case. Here's Raz explaining how he calibrates it. Video is timecoded to start at the appropriate segment.

I feel like it has to be doing something. My throttle curve before I hooked it up looked like someone was having a heart attack. I might not have the dial perfectly tuned for the amount of space I'm running on, but I don't see how it couldn't be working. What is making you say that its not working?

 

[Diem Turner]

Perhaps my stating "not doing anything" was a bit hyperbolic, it is doing some smoothing. But compare your throttle input to this one and you'll see what I mean. You should just be pulling the trigger to 100% and letting PP do the rest.

 

[GTRider610]

Perhaps my stating "not doing anything" was a bit hyperbolic, it is doing some smoothing. But compare your throttle input to this one and you'll see what I mean. You should just be pulling the trigger to 100% and letting PP do the rest.
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Ahh I see what you're saying now. You just go full 100% right from the start? That does make sense looking at your graph.

 

[Diem Turner]

Ahh I see what you're saying now. You just go full 100% right from the start? That does make sense looking at your graph.

Yessir. The first 15% of throttle reacts normally to your throttle input. The remaining 85% will ramp up from that point in the amount of time that you set on the potentiometer so you just pin the throttle, PP does the rest. For speed running most seem to land in the 7-8 second range. I believe 10 seconds is the maximum delay available.

 

[GTRider610]

Yessir. The first 15% of throttle reacts normally to your throttle input. The remaining 85% will ramp up from that point in the amount of time that you set on the potentiometer so you just pin the throttle, PP does the rest. For speed running most seem to land in the 7-8 second range. I believe 10 seconds is the maximum delay available.

Sweet, thank you for the advice. I think mine is a touch before 3/4 around. Might bump it up a touch more and see what that does. I feel like delay on the longer side should benefit more in terms of keeping things as linear as possible.

 

[Diem Turner]

Sweet, thank you for the advice. I think mine is a touch before 3/4 around. Might bump it up a touch more and see what that does. I feel like delay on the longer side should benefit more in terms of keeping things as linear as possible.

Anytime, glad I can help out The slower and more linear the throttle input hits the ESC, the less voltage sag you'll have to contend with (if you analyze your data logs, you'll notice that every little bump in throttle input will correspond to a blip in amps which, in turn, results in a little dip in your voltage). You'll get a little more top speed and your results will have consistency that is impossible to replicate with your finger. But that ain't gonna stop me from trying

 

[GTRider610]

Figured I’d add some more lighting for after work dusk runs so the damn boulders will stop walking in front of my car.

 

[AIan]

Soon you’re gunna be hitting ufos lol loos cool

 

[GTRider610]

Well bad luck has struck again boys and girls. Today was followed up by a few 139MPH passes again. Still unable to get the car to that 140MPH mark for some reason. Assuming its my aero. Well "last run of the day" I had a foam blow at I'm guessing around 120MPH since the pass ended up being 129MPH when I finally found my GPS. I was running Contact 40 foams and they had been great up until that point. Car was straight as an arrow. Not sure if I hit something in the road, but the tire is sliced clean open down the middle. Damage to the car wasn't bad itself. Few broken pieces and obviously a new set of foams. What got me was the ESC bullet connector. Oddly enough my loosest fitting connector happened to rip out the port the connector goes into and I don't think that's repairable. Hell of a day to say the least. Thankful I didn't hurt anyone or their property with the crash. Any input if my ESC is salvageable before I order a new one would be greatly appreciated! Back to the drawing board..

 

[GTRider610]

Update: Got the replacement parts ordered, but I think I maybe able to reattach that connector to the esc. It clicked back down level with the others. I think a quick heat up with a soldering iron and it may reattach. Gonna try that later today before I order another ESC. Has anyone else reattached a connector on an ESC that way?

 

[Diem Turner]

Update: Got the replacement parts ordered, but I think I maybe able to reattach that connector to the esc. It clicked back down level with the others. I think a quick heat up with a soldering iron and it may reattach. Gonna try that later today before I order another ESC. Has anyone else reattached a connector on an ESC that way?

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That can be repaired. Here's a how to video.

 

[GTRider610]

That can be repaired. Here's a how to video.

Perfect. This 140mph quest has been cruel from 135mph on. Think a higher power is keeping me in a 139mph purgatory lol. Once I hit it I’m switching to GT for sure. Need something fresh. Hope you’re doing well man!

 

[Diem Turner]

Perfect. I’m surprised I missed that video. Usually enjoy Kevin’s content. This 140mph quest has been cruel from 135mph on. Think a higher power is keeping me in a 139mph purgatory lol. Once I hit it I’m switching to GT for sure. Need something fresh. Hope you’re doing well man!

Actually, that video is by a guy named Zagert. That's not Kevin

I bet man, that's gotta get frustrating. I guess my question would be: do you think it's a higher power or do you think your MMX8S might be running out of chooch?

All good here, hope you're well brother!

 

[GTRider610]

Actually, that video is by a guy named Zagert. That's not Kevin

I bet man, that's gotta get frustrating. I guess my question would be: do you think it's a higher power or do you think your MMX8S might be running out of chooch?

All good here, hope you're well brother!

Lol not sure why I said Kevin. Spotted the saw blade wheels and assumed. The car is a bit too high still maybe and the wind hasn’t been super kind either. I know I can get it on this setup it’s just making me work like a cheap hooker lol. Def switching setups at 140mph. Need the GT body for sure. I wonder if I could warranty that esc if I don’t re solder it? Think I have a year warranty.

 

[Diem Turner]

Lol not sure why I said Kevin. Spotted the saw blade wheels and assumed. The car is a bit too high still maybe and the wind hasn’t been super kind either. I know I can get it on this setup it’s just making me work like a cheap hooker lol. Def switching setups at 140mph. Need the GT body for sure. I wonder if I could warranty that esc if I don’t re solder it? Think I have a year warranty.

Switching to a full body should definitely be worth a couple of mph on its own.

You might be able to. Someone posted in a thread recently what the facts of consumer rights is concerned and got his XLX2 warrantied from Castle at no cost (minus the shipping I assume). I just can't remember what thread that was in.

Edit: Found it.
GUYS!!!!!!!! CASTLE CREATIONS IS REPLACING MY XLX2 UNDER MY WARRANTY!!!!! ALL MY HARD WORK DOING RESEARCH ON CONSUMER WARRANTY RIGHTS PAID OFF!

YOU NOW HAVE ALL THE INFORMATION YOU NEED RIGHT HERE TO DEFEND YOUR WARRANTY RIGHTS.
Your welcome, please check out my R/c channel TOYS FOR BOYS RC
https://youtube.com/channel/UCkVnTKTVloRMmxzMZHQMuFA

Credit goes to @ARRMA-GET’M

 

[GTRider610]

Switching to a full body should definitely be worth a couple of mph on its own.

You might be able to. Someone posted in a thread recently what the facts of consumer rights is concerned and got his XLX2 warrantied from Castle at no cost (minus the shipping I assume). I just can't remember what thread that was in.

Edit: Found it.
GUYS!!!!!!!! CASTLE CREATIONS IS REPLACING MY XLX2 UNDER MY WARRANTY!!!!! ALL MY HARD WORK DOING RESEARCH ON CONSUMER WARRANTY RIGHTS PAID OFF!

YOU NOW HAVE ALL THE INFORMATION YOU NEED RIGHT HERE TO DEFEND YOUR WARRANTY RIGHTS.
Your welcome, please check out my R/c channel TOYS FOR BOYS RC
https://youtube.com/channel/UCkVnTKTVloRMmxzMZHQMuFA

Credit goes to @ARRMA-GET’M

Sweet I’ll have to find the video. I was just gonna go with “I pulled my motor wires out and this popped out with my motor wire lol. Don’t think there’s any cosmetic damage to it since it stayed in the car during the crash.

 

[Diem Turner]

Sweet I’ll have to find the video. I was just gonna go with “I pulled my motor wires out and this popped out with my motor wire lol. Don’t think there’s any cosmetic damage to it since it stayed in the car during the crash.

Yeah, I'm not seeing a video either. Maybe best to message him about it.

 

[GTRider610]

Well guess I gotta try and fix it myself. Castle gave me the “that had to be high amp abuse on it to cause that and it’s not really repairable” even though I was under its rated max amperage. Kind of unfortunate, but I guess I’ll have to be a huge Karen about quality when I get a new one because that connector always felt a bit loose from the start.

 

[Diem Turner]

Well guess I gotta try and fix it myself. Castle gave me the “that had to be high amp abuse on it to cause that and it’s not really repairable” even though I was under its rated max amperage. Kind of unfortunate, but I guess I’ll have to be a huge Karen about quality when I get a new one because that connector always felt a bit loose from the start.

To be fair to Castle, they don't list any max amp specs for their ESCs (probably for situations like this leaving them a back door). The values we reference are based on real world experience (I've never seen any amp specs on the Castle site...though I might have just been blind and missed it). If you got a link to where they list anything, I'd be curious to see.

Since you're saying that it felt loose from the start, that would indicate a poor connection. Poor connections are going to have a higher electrical resistance as there's not as much material for the pixies to flow through which in turn will result in slightly to much higher temperatures depending on how poor the connection actually is and how many amps you're trying to pull across it. Yeah, that's gonna be aggravating for sure but, I'm sure you can fix it yourself. You got this