Notorious Low steering power

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Desousa33c

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I was running my arrma notorious after putting in a brand new servo worked amazing for a couple runs then all of a sudden it seems like I lost steering power. It moves just super slow now. Nothing binding I can move freely by turning the tires ..
 
When you say no binding - are you disconnecting the servo arm from the servo to check?

Also, did you set the endpoints after putting the new servo in? If not, that may have toasted it.
 
I did it moves nicely just not as strong as it was .. seems like it's not getting enough power to turn .. end points ? I only centered the servo before hooking up the arm
 
Endpoints are basically setting the mechanical limits of the servo travel in each direction. You are teaching the transmitter what the limits are and not to go past it when you turn full right or left. If you hit the mechanical limit and try to go past it the servo is in a stalled state and current draw goes way up and you can burn up the electronics. You need to set the endpoints if you change servos or transmitters.
 
I was running my arrma notorious after putting in a brand new servo worked amazing for a couple runs then all of a sudden it seems like I lost steering power. It moves just super slow now. Nothing binding I can move freely by turning the tires ..
Like said above end points are important.
A high quality servo and smooth mechanical steering components are a huge part of the operation of any RC. It’s one area that you can’t skimp on. You get what you pay for is my opinion. I’ve had good luck with Reefs, SAVOX 1210sg, SAVOX 2290wp, and promodeler. They’re pricey but the truck will turn when you want it to. I hate to set my rigs on the ground and see the wheels just barely turn or have it take half an acre to turn around. Quick precise steering also allows you to save your truck from parked cars, trees, poles and all the other crap that jumps right out in front of you 😆. Good luck friend!
 
I agree I didn't cheap out on my servo tho. I know there trucks are notorious for blowing servos ;) ( see what I did there) lmao

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Endpoints are basically setting the mechanical limits of the servo travel in each direction. You are teaching the transmitter what the limits are and not to go past it when you turn full right or left. If you hit the mechanical limit and try to go past it the servo is in a stalled state and current draw goes way up and you can burn up the electronics. You need to set the endpoints if you change servos or transmitters.
That did it ! Thank you so much Mister !
 
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i run a power HD 25, i had to turn down my throw to 75% on my Typhon, hate to say it but it sounds like you fried it by not setting endpoints before you played. No issues with my servo so far, love it actually, fast and good toque at 8.0V. When you don't adjust your end points the servo throw will fight against the steering max turn point for the bellcranks, then it will simply bend the arms, that extra loading/binding is making your servo scream under load extension and is a popular servo fryer.
 
Seems like setting them after fixed it. servo still moves nice I guess ypu do pay for what you get
Power Hd servos are not cheap and are very well made and reviewed under servo testing for toque and speed, far better than a $30 Amazon special, if you can bump your ESC bec to 8.0V don it, pretty sure all Power Hd servo runs up to 8.4V and if your transmitter has the capability set it to 333Hz for the steering servo per the advertised specs on Power Hd website.
 
I have a GT Shytenrc 120A esc and I can seem to get it to program .. nothing online at all ..

Screenshot_20220907-174605_Gallery.jpg
 
I agree I didn't cheap out on my servo tho. I know there trucks are notorious for blowing servos ;) ( see what I did there) lmao

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Steering is everything on these rigs. I was reluctant to spend big money on a servo when I first started. $150 bucks YOU’RE CRAZY! Now NO PROBLEM! I didn’t mean to say you cheaped out. RC vehicles ain’t worth a dam if they won’t turn. I notoriously spend so much I feel guilty at times. Trucks drive great though lol 😆
 
all i was able to find was this on your esc, at only 5.8 volt there is no way of utilising the power of your servo from that particular esc, in fact the bec is barely supplying minimum voltage to the servo http://www.chd.hk/

Servo spec:
WH-30KG
Torque(6.0V): 22.0 kg-cm ( 305.5 oz/in)
Torque(7.4V): 26.0 kg-cm ( 361.1 oz/in)
Torque(8.4V): 30.0 kg-cm ( 416.6 oz/in)
Speed: 0.16 sec (6.0V)│0.13 sec (7.4V)│
Speed: 0.11 sec (8.4V)
Operating Voltage:6.0 ~ 8.4 DC Volts
Weight: 82 g (2.89 oz)
Bearing Type:Ball Bearing x 2
Motor Type:Coreless Motor
Gear Type:Steel & Aluminum
Operating Temperature:-20℃~60℃
Working frequence:1520μs / 333hz
Size:40.7 x 20.5 x 38.5 mm ( 1.60 x 0.81 x 1.52 in)

2: 60A ESC Description:

This is Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) for car. High power system for RC model is very dangerous, so please read this manual carefully.

Since we cannot control the correct use, installation, application, or maintenance of our products, we'veno liability will be assumed to be still accepted for damages,

Losses or costs arising from the use of the product. Any claim arising from operations, failure of malfunction etc. is denied.

We accept no liability for any injury, consequential damage from our product or our processing.

Features:

1. water -proof and dust -proof for all -weather run; (Note: please uninstall the fans before this ESC in water; clean and dry them soon after use to avoid the connections obtained rust.)

2. especially for RC car with excellent start -up, acceleration and linearity functions.

Three. compatible with sensorless brushless motor.

Four. the strong continuous current capacity, excellent heat discharge.

Five. Multiple protection functions: low voltage cut -off protection for lithium or nickel battery /overheat protectionThrote signal loss protection / engine blocking protection /

Six. easily programmed and compatible with bag -size program card.

Specification:

Brand: GTSKYTENRC

real name: 60A ESC

Cont. Electricity /Burst Electricity: 60A /360A

Engine Type: Senseless Brushless Engine

For 2 S Lipo or 6 -cell NiMH:

1. on -road: 3660 -size or small engine with the car <6000KV

2. off -road /Buggy /Monster: 3660 -size or small engine with the car <4000KV

For 3 S Lipo or 9 -cell NiMH:

1. on -road: 3660 -size or small engine with the car <4000KV

2. off -road /Buggy /Monster: 3660 -size or small engine with the car <3000KV

Suitable car: 1 /10 Car

Resistance: 0.0007ohm

Battery: 2 -3 S Lipo /4 -9Cells NiMH

BEC output: 5,8 V /3A (mode switch)

Dimensions /weight: 51,5x68,5x38,5mm /76g
 
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Thank you, I don't think it's programable I tried with 2 different programmers .. and my eac doesn't have a set button just an on off switch
 
Upgrade your ESC. Having BEC voltage adjustability is Required with servos. And if you have a High end servo, 5.8v BEC output is not letting the Servo unleash itself for maximum torque output potential. Becomes a waste of a good servo there.
I use "cheapo" DS3235 35 kg Amz servos. At 7.2 volts and 8.4v . Great performance for me. Been the expensive servo route before. They all break and are consumable RC items for bashing use. These are not "Track" rigs.

Hopefully your Noto. Servo Saver Preload is also up to par. Should be shimmed correctly, or that servo will perform useless/ no better than the OE one.. No gain in performance.
 
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None by me also.:(
Online for me.
 
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