Talion Low temp powerful motor for Talion?

[Rootbeer]

Im looking to upgrade my v2 Talion, Ive already upgraded the stock motor to a Poseidon 2000kv and MAX 5 ESC, but the motor always heats up when reaching 70mph on road, this is with a 24t and 50 spur, stock diffs
Im trying to build a offroad speedster out of this rig, looking for 80+ speeds onroad and maybe 60mph offroad

if thats asking too much im just wondering what is a motor that can output those speeds while keeping the temps low (no fan required)?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I had a Kraton setup with the max6 combo that has the 4985 1600kv motor and it would get hot without a fan.
I think a fan is going to be a must have because you are pushing the rig so hard.

 

[Rootbeer]

Heres some pictures of my current setup, heatsinks, the fan and 2s battery are very bulky to keep the motor cool, I also have the older motor mount which limits my motor selection, but im willing to upgrade that too if a worthy motor is found

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Heres some pictures of my current setup, heatsinks, the fan and 2s battery are very bulky to keep the motor cool, I also have the older motor mount which limits my motor selection, but im willing to upgrade that too if a worthy motor is found

View attachment 394329

View attachment 394330

View attachment 394331

A larger can gives more surface area to shed heat.
Usually lower KV will run cooler also, however if you gear up enough to retain 70 mph it might equal out.

The problem is these systems can generate heat faster than they can remove it.

 

[Garcbomber]

Define Hot, because it's not considered too much in my applications unless over 180-200F infrared.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Define Hot, because it's not considered too much in my applications unless over 180-200F infrared.

Good point.
And it can be related to the ambient temps. We are heading into fall/winter so things will run cooler now.

 

[Rootbeer]

Define Hot, because it's not considered too much in my applications unless over 180-200F infrared.

right sorry, I don't have a temperature reader but I do the old "if you can touch it its cool, if you cant then turn it off and let it cool"

 

[LibertyMKiii]

right sorry, I don't have a temperature reader but I do the old "if you can touch it its cool, if you cant then turn it off and let it cool"

150F can feel that way but is perfectly safe for the motor.
Might be time to grab an IR gun off Amazon. Very worth it after investing so much into a rig.

Changing the motor and cooling setup might be another 150-200 and could be possibly not needed at all if you are already in a safe range.

 

[Garcbomber]

right sorry, I don't have a temperature reader but I do the old "if you can touch it its cool, if you cant then turn it off and let it cool"

Everyone has a little different pad sensitivity, usually I can keep a fingertip on for more than a second if it's under 150-160F. Otherwise you'll get top layer skin sizzzzzzzle.

 

[Rootbeer]

thanks to you both, ive bought an IR and will keep my old motor until it finally gives, im now guessing a larger can sized motor would be heavier than my whole "keep the motor cool" setup, so now im going to work on the cable management to make it not look so bulky

however down the road I do have my eyes on the Castle 1717 as it claims to run cooler
would it be a good fit for the Max 5?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

thanks to you both, ive bought an IR and will keep my old motor until it finally gives, im now guessing a larger can sized motor would be heavier than my whole "keep the motor cool" setup, so now im going to work on the cable management to make it not look so bulky

however down the road I do have my eyes on the Castle 1717 as it claims to run cooler
would it be a good fit for the Max 5?

Lots of people like running that motor. Should work fine.

 

[Garcbomber]

Is that motor capable of running 8S? You're probably over max RPM which will exponentially create rotor/stator heat.

 

[Moirae]

Buy some fans, I don't understand the logic behind not running them when they literally help you achieve the goal you have in mind.

TP 4070 1700kv is great in the talion and I'd pick that over the castle motor. You need to buy some good fans and stop being weird regardless of what motor you use though. If you actually put some decent fans on your current motor you might even be okay.

 

[Rootbeer]

Is that motor capable of running 8S? You're probably over max RPM which will exponentially create rotor/stator heat.

The Poseidon motor is rated for 6s, I only run 6s for now, 50k RPM the website says is the max, 8s i know is around 60RPM

Buy some fans, I don't understand the logic behind not running them when they literally help you achieve the goal you have in mind.

TP 4070 1700kv is great in the talion and I'd pick that over the castle motor. You need to buy some good fans and stop being weird regardless of what motor you use though. If you actually put some decent fans on your current motor you might even be okay.

My logic was that adding fans/heatsink + battery for the fans would add weight and increase maintenance, a better motor would simplify things a bit while giving more power, but I guess your right, bigger motor means more weight, the lower kv means id need a higher pinion and thats more heat, so I wouldn't really be fixing any of my problems

 

[Moirae]

The Poseidon motor is rated for 6s, I only run 6s for now, 50k RPM the website says is the max, 8s i know is around 60RPM


My logic was that adding fans/heatsink + battery for the fans would add weight and increase maintenance, a better motor would simplify things a bit while giving more power, but I guess your right, bigger motor means more weight, the lower kv means id need a higher pinion and thats more heat, so I wouldn't really be fixing any of my problems

https://www.radiocontrolpower.com/p...-bracket-with-40x10-fans-aluminum-mesh-covers

Something like this should do decently well but the superfans sure would be nicer.

https://www.radiocontrolpower.com/p...-bracket-with-40x28-fans-aluminum-mesh-covers

These are the holy grails imo, pushes as much air as a 12v fan connected to a battery but you can plug it into the rx or directly to a hobbywing esc. Uses more amps instead of more volts to accomplishes the same kind of power. Sadly I'm pretty sure that won't fit under the talion body without some tinkering. They're the fans I use for everything that requires serious cooling though. I swear by them.

I have the fans from the first link on my talion with an mmx8s and a tp4080cm 2022kv and it rips but maybe a little bit heavier than what you want.

 

[Hamcow]

Youve got a big esc, a big fan and and a pretty big heatsink so youve done about as much as you can with that. Though, like you say, it adds a lot of weight. Im still not convinced that heatsinks don't trap more heat than the disperse. So until I can 3d design a cooling shroud to my liking, Ive just removed everything. My next option would be the fan without the heatsink like Moirae posted. But youre pushing some really good speed so she should be pretty dang hot.