Low voltage cutoff BLX200

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richiecarbon

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Location
UK Colerne Wiits
Arrma RC's
  1. Nero
Using a pair of Duratrax Onyx 5400mAh 3S lipo`s in my Nero, my new posh charger is saying that one of the sells is not reaching the 4.2V charged limit, seems to be stuck at 3.81V, also when putting them into storage the charger takes twice as long to get that battery to storage voltage. My experience with the MXL6s when batteries nearing cut off voltage there is a dramatic decrease in performance, its set to 3.5V.

My first run with Nero I may have got over excited and visited all 3 of my bash spots for a blast, question is. is the LVC on the BLX200 working? did not notice any loss of power, guessing around 25 mins run time in total, what is your experience of the BLX200 at its LVC?

Thinking I have over discharged my batteries. Bit late now but have some alarms fitted on the batteries...
 
on a balance...I have had that happen...especially with new batts...seems like after I put a storage charge on them after each run a few times and a balance charge before each run...they leveled out...all cells reading the same...and after a run ...none of the self are dipping way off...

just took a few cycles to restore the balance...

seems my lvc is matching close with my batt alarms...but you could always go through your esc settings to make sure...
 
I just break a part before my batteries run low. It's getting to the point where a broken axle is my version of LVC. Lol :(
 
I always balance charge my bartteries, sometimes one cell takes long time to balance out, i have same 5400mah 50c onyx batteries both puffed and ive had a wire on each balance lead break both times yellow wire. Also just got dual low voltage alarms set to 3.6v to be safe new 7200mah 3s 70c spc batteries hard case so much better than the duratrax and 66 bux a pop not 75 or 80....
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I just break a part before my batteries run low. It's getting to the point where a broken axle is my version of LVC. Lol :(

Out of curiosity, what diff mode do you typically notice this problem in?
 
Both times was in 'All Locked' mode, but I don't think that's really the culprit. I seriously don't know why I'm getting these axle problems. One minute everything is great, the next one set of wheels have no power. Drive it back to myself to see an axle sheered.

I've contacted Hobbico about this and they were very surprised too. Never heard of this issue being reported before. They are sending me new axles under warranty.
 
I wanna know what your doing to break axels? I run with center and rear locked all the time i break alot of rod ends... no axels blew a shock cap off other day....

Only broke Screw shafts, which it is my understanding that they give out before the UJ's do. I rarely run in in mode 3 or 4, as for rod ends, burned through around 4. No shock cap yet.
 
Only broke Screw shafts, which it is my understanding that they give out before the UJ's do. I rarely run in in mode 3 or 4, as for rod ends, burned through around 4. No shock cap yet.
Right, the screw shafts breaking is what should be happening according to Hobbico's engineers, leaving the more expensive parts intact. It's all very strange.
 
Both times was in 'All Locked' mode, but I don't think that's really the culprit. I seriously don't know why I'm getting these axle problems. One minute everything is great, the next one set of wheels have no power. Drive it back to myself to see an axle sheered.

I've contacted Hobbico about this and they were very surprised too. Never heard of this issue being reported before. They are sending me new axles under warranty.


It may, under heavy throttle and possibly landing on one wheel, all the inertia transfers to the wheel causing a twisting force.
 
The manual states that 'changing diff modes at high throttle' is not recommended, nothing about running around in locked mode being a problem. If locked mode at speed, or just spinning your tires going up a hill, was a problem we'd all be stockpiling axles.
 
Well if your rippimg around in full locked mode then thats your problem... not recomended for any high speed driving read the manual that came with the tru
The manual states that 'changing diff modes at high throttle' is not recommended, nothing about running around in locked mode being a problem. If locked mode at speed, or just spinning your tires going up a hill, was a problem we'd all be stockpiling axles.
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There is nothing wrong with spinning tires going up hills lol you cant drive around at speed in full lock mode common sense should tell you that... why do real cars have differential? Beacuse all wheels turning same speed thru corners causes excessive wear the outside tire travels at a diffrent rate of speed than inside tire does so if its locked then your causing excessive stress to the drivetrain.... common sense but i understand some people have never change their own oil so they have zero knowlege of how basic mechanics and things work...

Theres pictures and its writen in like 4 languages rite her for ya @PeaCue
 
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https://arrmaforum.com/threads/witness-this-my-nero-arrives-monday.1354/#post-13634

very much the same warning I gave back in this post...yeah...be careful guys....expensive toys we have....so let's pay close attention to the details. ..and prove the stereotypes wrong about men and instructions. ..

when I first got my 5th scale ..1200 bucks...happy...totaled it in 5 minutes...all from not taking a few mins and slowing down to read a few warnings...

spectacular crash...full speed...parts everywhere...the look on the face of my worst half when I brought in a bucket of junk...ha ha...then came all the excuses and begging to spend more money to fix it...
 
;) Ohhh... The box insert! Yeah, didn't read that. Thought it was an ad for diff brain. This is truly a RTFM thread now. Lol.

Yes, I understand locked diffs. I drive a 4WD 1:1 scale truck. I ride motocross. I do all my maintenance and rebuild top and bottom ends of my bike. Have since I was 10.

Locked diffs on something this light 'kinda' matters. You can whiteness the inside tires easily slipping when it turns and there is no binding or hopping going on. But I agree, overall locked diffs is extra stress on the drive train. However the main point about axles breaking, IMO, is that the shaft pins should have broke alone and nothing else.

Anyways, I digress. I'll figure out a way to stop breaking things through a combination of increased driving skill, upgrading parts, and accumulating enough spare parts that it doesn't matter. :D
 
I actuly took locker rite out of frontbeacuse tiny servo poop out on me.. i could send it in i suppose but i don't miss it i like to go fast and jump backflip... thats how i blew shock cap off... i like center and rear locked rips wheelies and hauls ass got a 444oz/in servo in it cranked servo saver up, aluminum servo horn installed last night.
;) Ohhh... The box insert! Yeah, didn't read that. Thought it was an ad for diff brain. This is truly a RTFM thread now. Lol.

Yes, I understand locked diffs. I drive a 4WD 1:1 scale truck. I ride motocross. I do all my maintenance and rebuild top and bottom ends of my bike. Have since I was 10.

Locked diffs on something this light 'kinda' matters. You can whiteness the inside tires easily slipping when it turns and there is no binding or hopping going on. But I agree, overall locked diffs is extra stress on the drive train. However the main point about axles breaking, IMO, is that the shaft pins should have broke alone and nothing else.

Anyways, I digress. I'll figure out a way to stop breaking things through a combination of increased driving skill, upgrading parts, and accumulating enough spare parts that it doesn't matter. :D
Yeah me too... loved my banshee and all my toys always did my own maintenance, now i p,ay with tiny rc cars beacuse where i live its a 3 hour drive... i have seen my truck have a much larger rurning radius with alll diffs locked, its just hard on em. I took front locker out the servo took a poop i run middle and rear locked almost all the time im pretty hard on my rig im almost into my second bag of rod ends and ive broken 4 shock rod ends maybe 6. i hate my onyx 5400 batteries now ive got a 7200mah 70c hard case set of spc racing batteries and they were cheaper by almost 20 bux. My duratrax are slightly puffy but again im a jumping rippping up and down the lawn kind of driver. I never baby it alot of fullthrottle blasts and jumping, have a nice spot for backflips but blew a shock cap off so nero is down. Picked up dual voltage alarms so hopefully my onyx batteries stop puffin and im more aware of battery charge. I apologize for being dickish @PeaCue
 
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