Lsd diff vs V4 diff

Thh

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This is my 8th time in 2 years stripping eighter my front or rear diff, can I use a LSD diff in a V4 outcast? and will it hold up better?
 

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LSD will fit and it will work, so that's that part. It won't help you if you're stripping things, that's on you, since the only thing strippable on a diff is the four bolt holes in the carrier body.
 
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How many packs? Manual says they need to be serviced ever 20 I believe. 2 years could be alot of batteries or none depending on how much you drive.

Might just be normal wear and tear which lsd diffs wont help with.
 

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This is my 8th time in 2 years stripping eighter my front or rear diff, can I use a LSD diff in a V4 outcast? and will it hold up better?

I like what @Crunchy Gears said as well as the others.

Above one user asked for more details. What comes to mind would be regular service and you may be doing this. Wear on your gears change so it is important on the maintenance changes you shim. It changes where you might need more. Make sure you keep a good mesh on the diff gear to the input gear. There are some videos that show where the input gear can use a shim to make a better mesh with the diff crown gear. More easily seen when you remove the rear or front bulkhead to look at the input to diff mesh to see how good it is. Sometimes I have seen on the diff the two outdrives have too much back and forth movement which "could" have an effect on the internal sun gear that spins the planetary gears with the extra mm of movement. I shim the outdrive to reduce that excessive movement without creating any binding to the outdrives.

Then you did not say if it is internal gears you still want to check and shim if needed those for the outdrive and/or the planetary/spider gears. Also closely look at the gears on each maintenance to make sure they are good and change out any that could be worn.

With proper mesh and maintenance, you should be good if checked often.
 
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Thh

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I run 30k in the back, 60k in the front and 500k in center, I got every shim in the world that fits, and I always shim my diffs as close to no play as possible without gear grinding, I NEVER land big jumps on full throttle, I never run on asphalt.
My center diff has never failed, my front has failed a few times but my rear fails all the time no matter how I shim it or how many diffhouses/diff cups I replace, the stuff that I tend to brake are the sun gear or one of the small gears or the pin that holds the sun gear in place (yeah I shim that gear as well from time to time), I run on dboots backflips btw.
 

Monster Dork

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Do you match your wheel speed to your ground speed when you land, every time? Then you might find the diffs can indeed be damaged from doing close to nothing.
 

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Only this I can think of is are you still running the Plastic diff housing there known for heating up and warping that's the internals. We can say something like this for the bulkheads as well they can flex with out braking under heavy bashing as well this and lead to sun gear and pinion wear.

Upgrading both can some kind of aluminum can help with this and heat in diff. Heavy oils mean more load on pinion and sun gear were and lower weight fluids will put more load on the inner gears and more heat in your diffs.

As for the bulk head/housing and the inner diff housing the sun mounts to are made buy a lot of brands how ever watch the bulkhead/housing as Integy and HR are multiple parts to order and others like GPM are both front and back half with way bar plate.
 

hobo

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you could try putting drill bit pins in the diffs. I was having trouble with my kraton 6s diff and did the drill bit mod and they have been fine
 

Thh

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thanks guys for good feedback, I might go the alu diff housing route, I'll try the drill bit pin aswell=)
 
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