Lucas Red N Tacky grease vs the cheap stuff

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Don't pack too much in your diff or rc bearings as grease holds heat very well.
I agree, the drag of too much and very thick grease creates friction and heat by itself. I don't recommend thick stuff in the bearings. This will cause galling of the races and cause the balls to skid rather than roll. Then the ball cages fail and let go and blow out the seal(s). I'm sure we all know what that looks like. Thin WP synthetic grease filling only 1/3 of the bearings cavity is best. Then spin them up by hand or drill to spread it out before installing. My bearings last the longest when I do this. Even when new, I clean out and replace factory lube this way. I've inspected new bearings only to find some of them dry as a bone. Can with most brand bearings. If you don't check them, you will wonder why you had a bearing fail very early on. Been there.
 
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Sounds like the cage in your bearing has fallen apart that might be your sand sound.or the new grease loosened any old gritty grease that was in it. A female dog to clean old bearings if that was your case.
I agree, the drag of too much and very thick grease creates friction and heat by itself. I don't recommend thick stuff in the bearings. This will cause galling of the races and cause the balls to skid rather than roll. Then the ball cages fail and let go and blow out the seal(s). I'm sure we all know what that looks like. Thin WP synthetic grease filling only 1/3 of the bearings cavity is best. Then spin them up by hand or drill to spread it out before installing. My bearings last the longest when I do this. Even when new, I clean out and replace factory lube this way. I've inspected new bearings only to find some of them dry as a bone. Can with most brand bearings. If you don't check them, you will wonder why you had a bearing fail very early on. Been
Very well explained! You said a mouth full. Exactly!
I agree, the drag of too much and very thick grease creates friction and heat by itself. I don't recommend thick stuff in the bearings. This will cause galling of the races and cause the balls to skid rather than roll. Then the ball cages fail and let go and blow out the seal(s). I'm sure we all know what that looks like. Thin WP synthetic grease filling only 1/3 of the bearings cavity is best. Then spin them up by hand or drill to spread it out before installing. My bearings last the longest when I do this. Even when new, I clean out and replace factory lube this way. I've inspected new bearings only to find some of them dry as a bone. Can with most brand bearings. If you don't check them, you will wonder why you had a bearing fail very early on. Been there.
I agree, the drag of too much and very thick grease creates friction and heat by itself. I don't recommend thick stuff in the bearings. This will cause galling of the races and cause the balls to skid rather than roll. Then the ball cages fail and let go and blow out the seal(s). I'm sure we all know what that looks like. Thin WP synthetic grease filling only 1/3 of the bearings cavity is best. Then spin them up by hand or drill to spread it out before installing. My bearings last the longest when I do this. Even when new, I clean out and replace factory lube this way. I've inspected new bearings only to find some of them dry as a bone. Can with most brand bearings. If you don't check them, you will wonder why you had a bearing fail very early on. Been there.
I agree, the drag of too much and very thick grease creates friction and heat by itself. I don't recommend thick stuff in the bearings. This will cause galling of the races and cause the balls to skid rather than roll. Then the ball cages fail and let go and blow out the seal(s). I'm sure we all know what that looks like. Thin WP synthetic grease filling only 1/3 of the bearings cavity is best. Then spin them up by hand or drill to spread it out before installing. My bearings last the longest when I do this. Even when new, I clean out and replace factory lube this way. I've inspected new bearings only to find some of them dry as a bone. Can with most brand bearings. If you don't check them, you will wonder why you had a bearing fail very early on. Been there.
Never though of checking new bearings for grease. I hope Jim's bearings has grease in the bearings. Picking up my new outcast 4s. Jim's bearings coming next week.now have more work on bearing replacement. A little trust issue now. Premature falling of one bearing makes sense now.
 
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Sounds like the cage in your bearing has fallen apart that might be your sand sound.or the new grease loosened any old gritty grease that was in it. A female dog to clean old bearings if that was your case.



Never though of checking new bearings for grease. I hope Jim's bearings has grease in the bearings. Picking up my new outcast 4s. Jim's bearings coming next week.now have more work on bearing replacement. A little trust issue now. Premature falling of one bearing makes sense now.
Nope cage is in perfect shape just the grease who was yellow solidifed like rocks
 
Sounds like the cage in your bearing has fallen apart that might be your sand sound.or the new grease loosened any old gritty grease that was in it. A female dog to clean old bearings if that was your case.



Never though of checking new bearings for grease. I hope Jim's bearings has grease in the bearings. Picking up my new outcast 4s. Jim's bearings coming next week.now have more work on bearing replacement. A little trust issue now. Premature falling of one bearing makes sense now.
I am not down playing any particular Bearing brand. But over the years I have noticed on occasion new bearings can fail very soon after installation. The common denominator being that some are just dry as a bone. These bearings are just cheap gumball $1.00 bearings for the most part, marked up. The failure rate of new ones are more common than you think. Playing devils advocate requires closer examination when new. Don't assume they are all lubed and functioning. They are not tested for QC. They are cheap items that can be a nuisance if you encounter a poorly made bearing. It just happens. I am talking Rubber Sealed standard bearings from all the main brands we see out there.
 
Thinking back you are absolutely right. Have had many wheel bearings and only 3 or 4 times I can remember just one going bad and falling apart way before the others!
 
After noticing several new bearings blow up within two runs or so, it's safe to assume they were defective. And dry as abone. No lube. So now I remove a seal to check first and lube as required.. All bearings fail at some point. But now mine don't fail early on. And I usually find one or two new yet Un lubed ones. It just happens. They are cheaply made. Most brands i used are like this. No need to mention brands here. Not my point. Just an observation.
 
Best grease.

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I've seen that brand before at a repair shop. Why is it good stuff? IDK much about it.
 
I was going to get some Red and Tacky, but is this too thick to put on the diff crown gear and input shaft on my Kraton 6s ? Or should I just stick with the marine grease I've been using for years with all my other vehicles.
 
I was going to get some Red and Tacky, but is this too thick to put on the diff crown gear and input shaft on my Kraton 6s ? Or should I just stick with the marine grease I've been using for years with all my other vehicles.

I use it on all of my diffs. I actually just used on a 1/14 scale LC Racing Truggy I just built. It’s awesome stuff.
 
I was going to get some Red and Tacky, but is this too thick to put on the diff crown gear and input shaft on my Kraton 6s ? Or should I just stick with the marine grease I've been using for years with all my other vehicles.
youa re going to feel no differance marine grease or red N tacky in terms of resistance
 
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