M2C Chassis: Why You Still Need Aluminum Chassis Braces

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Just because you have the incredible M2C chassis, you still want to run aftermarket chassis braces. I found out the hard way. Twice. I can't speak to other aftermarket chassis but the one from M2C will flex when sent high and far. What's great about the 7075 aluminum is that even though it flexes, it will go back to its original shape.

While waiting on the M2C front chassis brace for my Talion, I decided to run the stock plastic brace. Bad move. One massive jump off the BMX berm and it was enough to flex the chassis and banana my front CVD. While you will be hard pressed to permanently bend an M2C chassis, you will definitely bend center dogbones if you go big with the stock chassis braces. I just thought I'd pass that info along ???
 
custom made center brace and a small piece of aluminum for the rear tower, prevents bending the corners of it.

Thanks for the input, I bought the aluminum F and R brace, and the HR rear diff case as well.

Do you have front and rear bumpers? it helps a lot on absorbing the hits.
 

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custom made center brace and a small piece of aluminum for the rear tower, prevents bending the corners of it.

Thanks for the input, I bought the aluminum F and R brace, and the HR rear diff case as well.
Nice job on the brace ???
 
custom made center brace and a small piece of aluminum for the rear tower, prevents bending the corners of it.

Thanks for the input, I bought the aluminum F and R brace, and the HR rear diff case as well.

Do you have front and rear bumpers? it helps a lot on absorbing the hits.
If you have a M2C 7075, the T2T isn't really necessary or wanted as you kind of want to allow the chassis to flex some. I ran a T2T before the M2C and as you know, the outer ears of the towers bend. It's nice not having to work around the T2T as well on my outcast. I also replaced my towers with Russian titanium ones off ebay and they seem to hold up pretty good.

Even with the alloy chassis braces and the M2C, it still allows some flex.

I'd never even run my outcast without an RPM front bumper... I'm too bad of a driver to not have one! Really helps with those lawn dart landings.

What's that screw in your T2T near the rear tower? Just curious.
 
I installed a factory center brace on my V3 after switching from a Just Bash It chassis to the M2C. The JBI chassis is very rigid and doesn't flex. With the M2C it flexed enough to pull the front body clips thru my we used body just jumping on mushy, soft ground. If you're going to jumping enough to truly need an aftermarket chassis then I'm of the opinion you should probably still run a T2T brace.
 
I installed a factory center brace on my V3 after switching from a Just Bash It chassis to the M2C. The JBI chassis is very rigid and doesn't flex. With the M2C it flexed enough to pull the front body clips thru my we used body just jumping on mushy, soft ground. If you're going to jumping enough to truly need an aftermarket chassis then I'm of the opinion you should probably still run a T2T brace.
Why did you switch from JBI to M2C?
 
Just saw somebody post to some overseas site that had ti shafts.

Larger dia, but as we know depends on the steel strength as to whether an actual improvement in stength vs just weight or not.

Didn't search to see that the results were.

Also just read a post about replacing pins.

Has anyone heated the oem shafts evenly (oven, self clean) and then dropped into oil (used believe it or not is best rumor says because of carbon) and 'heat treated?
 
Just saw somebody post to some overseas site that had ti shafts.

Larger dia, but as we know depends on the steel strength as to whether an actual improvement in stength vs just weight or not.

Didn't search to see that the results were.

Also just read a post about replacing pins.

Has anyone heated the oem shafts evenly (oven, self clean) and then dropped into oil (used believe it or not is best rumor says because of carbon) and 'heat treated?
I'm not sure what shafts you are referring to. Shock?
 
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