M2C CVD fail. 8S CVD that work?

[LTErene10$]

I'd take the time to drill em out to 4mm and get the vitavon cups...

I made my own

 

[Bullet]

I made my own

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What type of pins did you use to replace the faulty ones? Have you had any issues since you replaced the pins?

 

[LTErene10$]

What type of pins did you use to replace the faulty ones? Have you had any issues since you replaced the pins?

I haven’t been running the truck much lately. Shame on me but I ordered them on Amazon. There 4mm diameter. Press old one out. Drill to size. Cut new rod to length and press in. I use a vice. Will have to take material away from your outdrive cups to fit. It’s a investment.

 

[Yasaboss]

I bought some from rcawd and they came also as a set was 3.5mm pins And cups and been working great. They were $35, the ones I bought listing isn't there but I just found these from them at 4mm!
S10RCAWD Front & Rear CVD Driveshaft Set for 1/5 ARRMA 8S Outcast & KRATON Upgrades Parts, 182mm Dogbone (Pin Thickened to 4mm) & CVD Axle & Diff Outdrive & Outboard CVD Rebuild Set, ARA310926 ARA310932 https://a.co/d/iuITBRs

 

[Moirae]

I bought some from rcawd and they came also as a set was 3.5mm pins And cups and been working great. They were $35, the ones I bought listing isn't there but I just found these from them at 4mm!
S10RCAWD Front & Rear CVD Driveshaft Set for 1/5 ARRMA 8S Outcast & KRATON Upgrades Parts, 182mm Dogbone (Pin Thickened to 4mm) & CVD Axle & Diff Outdrive & Outboard CVD Rebuild Set, ARA310926 ARA310932 https://a.co/d/iuITBRs

its crazy that RCAWD actually did something good.

 

[Yasaboss]

its crazy that RCAWD actually did something good.

Yeah I had no idea the pins and cups were 3.5 mm and came with the axel stubs for $35, and it was hardened #45 steel is the reason I bought to try them out. Have them on about 4 months now hardly any wear on the cups and none on the pins running trenchers too.

 

[Moirae]

Yeah I had no idea the pins and cups were 3.5 mm and came with the axel stubs for $35, and it was hardened #45 steel is the reason I bought to try them out. Have them on about 4 months now hardly any wear on the cups and none on the pins running trenchers too.

I'm wondering if their 6s outdrive cups are any good

 

[Margay-k8s]

*265 plus shipping for all 4. If you can afford a 1/5 that is wrecking driveshafts to the point that you need these, you can afford them.

Has anyone tried the vitavon axles for kraton 8s? I can't seem to keep any axles in my truck. Lol

 

[Armarookie43]

Has anyone tried the vitavon axles for kraton 8s? I can't seem to keep any axles in my truck. Lol

What punch setting are you using? What esc, gearing and motor are you using? Tires? I haven't had too many issues with my M2C overkill driveshafts and diffs after gearing down to 30/47, putting punch control to 100 on my XLX2 and going with shorter motors like the 5687 from HW and 5692 from HobbyStar.

 

[Margay-k8s]

I run duratrax hatchet x belted tires, xlx2 w/1100kv, 39p/47s gearing, earplugs in center diff. Basically stock esc setting except for brakes and BEC voltage. So far I have had best luck from stock axles. I was wondering if I remove the earplugs and use maybe 1mil in center if it may help take some strain off rear end? Maybe I'll drop punch level aswell

 

[Moirae]

I run duratrax hatchet x belted tires, xlx2 w/1100kv, 39p/47s gearing, earplugs in center diff. Basically stock esc setting except for brakes and BEC voltage. So far I have had best luck from stock axles. I was wondering if I remove the earplugs and use maybe 1mil in center if it may help take some strain off rear end? Maybe I'll drop punch level aswell

If you're using stock punch control, you should definitely raise it to at least 40% in my opinion. Even 50-70% is a lot of punch and I run mine at 65% iirc. I wouldn't be happy at 100% control like armorrookie but you should definitely not leave it at 0% unless you do some upgrades to the drivetrain.

 

[Margay-k8s]

If you're using stock punch control, you should definitely raise it to at least 40% in my opinion. Even 50-70% is a lot of punch and I run mine at 65% iirc. I wouldn't be happy at 100% control like armorrookie but you should definitely not leave it at 0% unless you do some upgrades to the drivetrain.

Thanks for the input. I'll definitely try. I have another question. I have the castle field card and the y harness. When I plug it in with a pc I get nothing on the card. No lights or power. I can link it to pc via USB and it connects. Am I doing something wrong or is there something wrong with the card itself?

 

[Armarookie43]

If you're using stock punch control, you should definitely raise it to at least 40% in my opinion. Even 50-70% is a lot of punch and I run mine at 65% iirc. I wouldn't be happy at 100% control like armorrookie but you should definitely not leave it at 0% unless you do some upgrades to the drivetrain.

I do it at 100% for my K8S because I hate wheelies on that particular vehicle. Only if I really try hard I can do a wheelie. The O8S with the same set up, but bigger trencher tires does wheelies all over the place, even with punch control at 100%, but nothing I can do about that one there.

 

[Raginbull74]

After reading this thread, I'm pretty sure my punch is at 0% on my O8 xlx2/ hobbystar 980kv combo at 30/39. That maybe part of the reason I'm going thru cvds. At the moment it's the rear drive cup pins. They end up opening up the cups then from the opening , the constant slap of the pins to the loose cups end up flattening the pins and putting divets in the cups. But on in the rear only. Front cvds are gold. I'm running the overkills also. No bends, but I'm running rpms all around. I'm going to try stock rears for the droop and turn my punch up to see what happens. All these little differences add up to a constant problem.

 

[Moirae]

I do it at 100% for my K8S because I hate wheelies on that particular vehicle. Only if I really try hard I can do a wheelie. The O8S with the same set up, but bigger trencher tires does wheelies all over the place, even with punch control at 100%, but nothing I can do about that one there.

I feel you man, I use to wheelie my k8s a lot. Especially before I upgraded to the 2028 1100kv motor. Now I'm terrified to do them, especially with trenchers on. I think trenchers played a big role in the problems as well.

After reading this thread, I'm pretty sure my punch is at 0% on my O8 xlx2/ hobbystar 980kv combo at 30/39. That maybe part of the reason I'm going thru cvds. At the moment it's the rear drive cup pins. They end up opening up the cups then from the opening , the constant slap of the pins to the loose cups end up flattening the pins and putting divets in the cups. But on in the rear only. Front cvds are gold. I'm running the overkills also. No bends, but I'm running rpms all around. I'm going to try stock rears for the droop and turn my punch up to see what happens. All these little differences add up to a constant problem.

That could definitely be the problem! I never had a single problem with my k8s until I upgraded to a bigger motor. Originally, I was using the tp 5670 (102mm) 1270kv and literally not a single problem. I put in the castle 2028 1100kv and started snapping driveshafts and having problems with my diff screws. The heavy trenchers probably played a role too. I bet if you go up a little on the punch control it will help a lot. I haven't had anymore problems since doing so. at least not yet

 

[Raginbull74]

I feel you man, I use to wheelie my k8s a lot. Especially before I upgraded to the 2028 1100kv motor. Now I'm terrified to do them, especially with trenchers on. I think trenchers played a big role in the problems as well.


That could definitely be the problem! I never had a single problem with my k8s until I upgraded to a bigger motor. Originally, I was using the tp 5670 (102mm) 1270kv and literally not a single problem. I put in the castle 2028 1100kv and started snapping driveshafts and having problems with my diff screws. The heavy trenchers probably played a role too. I bet if you go up a little on the punch control it will help a lot. I haven't had anymore problems since doing so. at least not yet

Did you end up going back to the 1270kv or stick with the 1100kv?

 

[RCbuzz]

I bought some from rcawd and they came also as a set was 3.5mm pins And cups and been working great. They were $35, the ones I bought listing isn't there but I just found these from them at 4mm!
S10RCAWD Front & Rear CVD Driveshaft Set for 1/5 ARRMA 8S Outcast & KRATON Upgrades Parts, 182mm Dogbone (Pin Thickened to 4mm) & CVD Axle & Diff Outdrive & Outboard CVD Rebuild Set, ARA310926 ARA310932 https://a.co/d/iuITBRs

It wasnt these was it?

https://www.amazon.com/RCAWD-Driveshaft-Outdrive-Outcast-Upgrade/dp/B09NN65BDF

 

[Moirae]

Did you end up going back to the 1270kv or stick with the 1100kv?

I'm still using the 1100kv. I had to get the m2c overkill driveshafts and the alu diff case in the rear.

 

[harith7oe]

I'm still using the 1100kv. I had to get the m2c overkill driveshafts and the alu diff case in the rear.

I'm running Max5 + 780kv 56112 with 37/39 gearing and recently I've blown my rear diff and CVD pins. Planning on rebuilding them, do I need alu diff case for the front diff? or just stick with stock case. Since the front diff got no issue.

 

[Moirae]

I'm running Max5 + 780kv 56112 with 37/39 gearing and recently I've blown my rear diff and CVD pins. Planning on rebuilding them, do I need alu diff case for the front diff? or just stick with stock case. Since the front diff got no issue.

I don't think you "need" it. I'm still using stock front without any problems.