Kraton M2C Kraton Chassis. Who else ordered one?

[Notorious J]

Too much $$$ for a plate of metal

Seriously? So the cost of injection molded plastic parts is ok then, say like $10 for these as an example:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-outcast-tall-side-guards-2-ara320352/p635664

10 sets, $100, same cost as one discounted M2C Outcast chassis brace.

 

[ninadada]

I was on the fence but that 20% off was just enough to get me to pull the trigger yesterday. Apparently, just in time. Their site shows it's sold out as of this morning.

If viewed as simply a piece of aluminum, I agree, very expensive and overkill for all but the most hardcore bashing crowd. My decision was based on what value it would add to my RC experience. Here were some of my considerations:

1) Buy once, cry once. I expect this chassis to outlive me, or at least my interest in the hobby.
2) I like to jump. I break stuff. Peace of mind a bent chassis won't end my bash session early.
3) Peace of mind a bent chassis won't damage other parts.
4) Peace of mind I won't have problems sourcing a new chassis.
5) I can do away with the T2T brace.

Of course, non of this matters if the chassis doesn't live up to the hype. I must say the recent R. Duperbash video helped convince me it will.

 

[olds97_lss]

Of course, non of this matters if the chassis doesn't live up to the hype. I must say the recent R. Duperbash video helped convince me it will.

He doesn't use a T2T on it still?

 

[ninadada]

He doesn't use a T2T on it still?

Nope! In the vid, he wasn't using a T2T and also mentioned he felt it was no longer necessary. For me, that was the single most important take away from the vid and ultimately sold me on the chassis. If Rich thought a T2T was still necessary, I don't think I would have made the investment.

 

[Notorious J]

I was on the fence but that 20% off was just enough to get me to pull the trigger yesterday. Apparently, just in time. Their site shows it's sold out as of this morning.

If viewed as simply a piece of aluminum, I agree, very expensive and overkill for all but the most hardcore bashing crowd. My decision was based on what value it would add to my RC experience. Here were some of my considerations:

1) Buy once, cry once. I expect this chassis to outlive me, or at least my interest in the hobby.
2) I like to jump. I break stuff. Peace of mind a bent chassis won't end my bash session early.
3) Peace of mind a bent chassis won't damage other parts.
4) Peace of mind I won't have problems sourcing a new chassis.
5) I can do away with the T2T brace.

Of course, non of this matters if the chassis doesn't live up to the hype. I must say the recent R. Duperbash video helped convince me it will.

I don't own or work in a machine shop, nor do I know anyone that does. I don't know the exact cost of the aluminum used (someone did link some pretty good statistics in another thread though) but I can imagine that the cost to own the type of CNC machines that manufacture these types of parts, are astronomical. Considering that a profit also needs to factored in, I would say that this chassis is fairly priced, even without the discount. The discount may be a deal breaker for some, including myself. Saying it was to much $$$ for a piece of metal just seemed a little naive. Love your thoughts and explanations Olds, always great insights of the hobby and so much more.

 

[Mr.Duke]

Dang it!
I guess I should've bought a bag of pea gravel from Home Depot and sifted through to find the best one,

instead of spending thousands on a diamond for my wife.

They're just "rocks" after all.

 

[RCPropaganda]

104 bucks for this chassis is such a steal. Some people had to design the chassis. Then make some test then produce a batch. For what it adds I think its a deal and half. I took my kraton out with it and I had so much fun knowing I had the strong chassis.

 

[Notorious J]

Dang it!
I guess I should've bought a bag of pea gravel from Home Depot and sifted through to find the best one,

instead of spending thousands on a diamond for my wife.

They're just "rocks" after all.

 

[Jimbobjr]

Like a good mechanic machinist like to eat. I love when people complain about the cost of something and look at it as so simple yet want to get paid the most for what ever it is they do. M2c are not getting rich for sure, machinery, software packages, rent, and a few smart guys to run the stuff. Come on now, just a piece of metal, I think that post pissed me off more than anything I ever read on here. The aluminum alone would cost 30-40 bucks if you buy it yourself, l checked...

 

[deaf leopard]

What do they mean by 'Goliath Series'? Is it a version of the 6S Kraton?

 

[Notorious J]

What do they mean by 'Goliath Series'? Is it a version of the 6S Kraton?

I think that's just the name they gave this series. These are standard cuts of the Outcast and Kraton Chassis'.

 

[olds97_lss]

Like a good mechanic machinist like to eat. I love when people complain about the cost of something and look at it as so simple yet want to get paid the most for what ever it is they do. M2c are not getting rich for sure, machinery, software packages, rent, and a few smart guys to run the stuff. Come on now, just a piece of metal, I think that post pissed me off more than anything I ever read on here. The aluminum alone would cost 30-40 bucks if you buy it yourself, l checked...

Even if you did buy a plate of 7075, without a CNC, would take quite a while to manually measure everything, cut it out, drill/countersink, sand/grind the edges and hope you get the kickup bent right.

Looks like a 4mm sheet of 7075-T6 that is 6x18 inches would be around $40, not including tax/shipping, cheapest shipping per that site is $19 UPS, which seems a bit high, but whatever, so add $11 shipping, $4 tax and your at $55 just for the raw material. If your smart, you'd likely buy twice as much material so you could make 2 of them in case you screw up, so that would add to it. But if your perfect, then how many hours would it take you to measure everything, drill all the holes, counter sink, cut it, sand the edges? I made a skidplate once for my LST. First I made a template out of something thin, that took over an hour just for that, so say at minimum 3 hours of time. So, $55 + 3 hours of time. I make more than $25 an hour, so before I even start, I'm in the hole, or close to it. I'm hot sure what M2C charges for shipping.

 

[Mr.Duke]

Don't forget about having to have them sent out to be anodized. Why? Well..... https://www.hunker.com/12000475/anodizing-7075-aluminum

 

[Notorious J]

Don't forget about having to have them sent out to be anodized. Why? Well..... https://www.hunker.com/12000475/anodizing-7075-aluminum

I would have quit at the buying the aluminum sheet, but those steps to anodize, forget about it.

 

[Notorious J]

Even if you did buy a plate of 7075, without a CNC, would take quite a while to manually measure everything, cut it out, drill/countersink, sand/grind the edges and hope you get the kickup bent right.

Looks like a 4mm sheet of 7075-T6 that is 6x18 inches would be around $40, not including tax/shipping, cheapest shipping per that site is $19 UPS, which seems a bit high, but whatever, so add $11 shipping, $4 tax and your at $55 just for the raw material. If your smart, you'd likely buy twice as much material so you could make 2 of them in case you screw up, so that would add to it. But if your perfect, then how many hours would it take you to measure everything, drill all the holes, counter sink, cut it, sand the edges? I made a skidplate once for my LST. First I made a template out of something thin, that took over an hour just for that, so say at minimum 3 hours of time. So, $55 + 3 hours of time. I make more than $25 an hour, so before I even start, I'm in the hole, or close to it. I'm hot sure what M2C charges for shipping.

If you had bought one in January, it was 20% off and free shipping in the US. I had to pay shipping to Canada, but it was still worth it. It's just hard to listen to one person's comment about:

Too much $$$ for a plate of metal

Too each his own I guess.

 

[Mr.Duke]

I figured out earlier today that if you run RPM arms with this chassis, the droop screws don't hit the steel inserts that are intended to keep the screws from digging into the chassis. Seems to hit about 2-3mm outside of centerline compared to stock arms.

Went back to stock in order to utilize the steel inserts.

 

[ninadada]

Good to know. Thx for sharing.

 

[Notorious J]

I figured out earlier today that if you run RPM arms with this chassis, the droop screws don't hit the steel inserts that are intended to keep the screws from digging into the chassis. Seems to hit about 2-3mm outside of centerline compared to stock arms.

Went back to stock in order to utilize the steel inserts.

Solid info Mr.Duke. Thanks for sharing. Still waiting for the dogsleds to cross the border with mine.

 

[bicketybam]

I figured out earlier today that if you run RPM arms with this chassis, the droop screws don't hit the steel inserts that are intended to keep the screws from digging into the chassis. Seems to hit about 2-3mm outside of centerline compared to stock arms.

Went back to stock in order to utilize the steel inserts.

I didn't even notice. I did have to adjust my droop though.

 

[cootertwo]

I've got one of these ordered, along with the shock towers. They look REAL nice!
https://www.facebook.com/JBIRC