M2C racing ZRS Shock cap kit Issues...

[eltonline]

I almost destroyed a set of shock bodies and m2c caps during install and after speaking with Mitch, he realized Arrma changed the thread pattern on the EXB/V5 bodies. That's why he sells them both now.

https://m2cracing.net/arrma/586-m2c-3075-arrma-16-mm-zrs-shock-caps-and-oring-shock-pistons.html

https://m2cracing.net/arrma/383-m2c-3075-arrma-16-mm-zrs-shock-caps-and-oring-shock-pistons.html

Thanks, seems like you have been through some pain to get this resolved.

Since I'm in New Zealand and return shipping isn't viable, I contact M2C to verify what to order for my Typhon v5 and mentioned your interaction with Mitch. They advised me to order the new 3480 set and interestingly said that its backwards compatible with the Typhon v4. Am I correct in saying that the shock bodies are slightly narrower now so the old caps could leak?

 

[Harriot10]

Thanks, seems like you have been through some pain to get this resolved.

Since I'm in New Zealand and return shipping isn't viable, I contact M2C to verify what to order for my Typhon v5 and mentioned your interaction with Mitch. They advised me to order the new 3480 set and interestingly said that its backwards compatible with the Typhon v4. Am I correct in saying that the shock bodies are slightly narrower now so the old caps could leak?

Not sure about being narrower, I was told that it was a different thread pattern. I could be wrong, but that’s what Mitch told me!

I know if you get the wrong ones, they’re a mfr to put on!

I jacked up the shock bodies and the caps.

 

[Lukas412]

Mine haven't broken but they leak like a sieve. I have to add fluid every couple runs. I contacted M2C and got no response.

 

[FlipSide]

Mine haven't broken but they leak like a sieve. I have to add fluid every couple runs. I contacted M2C and got no response.

Have you experimented with the cap tightness? I have seen reports of leakage due to overtightening the cap, which can push the rubber gasket inwards and cause leaks. In an attempt to avoid this, I was very careful not to overtorque the caps on my first install, but they leaked badly. I then tightened them a bit more and it solved the leaking issue.

Basically, my (limited) experience with these tells me the acceptable tightness range is somewhat narrow. You want the rubber gasket to compress just enough to seal the shock and you do not want to overtighten it.

I hope this helps and that you don't have faulty shock caps.

 

[eltonline]

I'll order the 3480 set and be cautious when putting them together. @Harriot10, its difficult when you're installing something thats meant to fit precisely but you're not sure how tight its meant to feel. Thanks for the tips guys, I'll be wary if the threads don't line up nicely and try to get the gasket seated correctly.

 

[Lukas412]

Have you experimented with the cap tightness? I have seen reports of leakage due to overtightening the cap, which can push the rubber gasket inwards and cause leaks. In an attempt to avoid this, I was very careful not to overtorque the caps on my first install, but they leaked badly. I then tightened them a bit more and it solved the leaking issue.

Basically, my (limited) experience with these tells me the acceptable tightness range is somewhat narrow. You want the rubber gasket to compress just enough to seal the shock and you do not want to overtighten it.

I hope this helps and that you don't have faulty shock caps.

I have yes. I haven't been able to get them dialed in though. I have much more leaking on the rear shocks than the front. I'm still not sure why, even if I switch them. I was really disappointed with the lack of response but what are you gonna do. Can't beat most M2C parts, and I'll keep buying them anyway.

 

[Harriot10]

I have yes. I haven't been able to get them dialed in though. I have much more leaking on the rear shocks than the front. I'm still not sure why, even if I switch them. I was really disappointed with the lack of response but what are you gonna do. Can't beat most M2C parts, and I'll keep buying them anyway.

I gotta quick response! Spoke to Mitch several times. This wasn't the only issue I've had with m2c, also received a K8 motor mount that wasn't countersunk. No biggie, love their parts and customer service was

803 417 3071 or [email protected]

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

Have you experimented with the cap tightness? I have seen reports of leakage due to overtightening the cap, which can push the rubber gasket inwards and cause leaks. In an attempt to avoid this, I was very careful not to overtorque the caps on my first install, but they leaked badly. I then tightened them a bit more and it solved the leaking issue.

Basically, my (limited) experience with these tells me the acceptable tightness range is somewhat narrow. You want the rubber gasket to compress just enough to seal the shock and you do not want to overtighten it.

I hope this helps and that you don't have faulty shock caps.

My caps have leaked from day 1. Have to fill 3 out of the 4 every 4 or 5 packs. Rubber seal torque is almost always snug by hand and 1/4 turn more.

 

[Der_Heavynator]

Not sure about being narrower, I was told that it was a different thread pattern. I could be wrong, but that’s what Mitch told me!

I know if you get the wrong ones, they’re a mfr to put on!

I jacked up the shock bodies and the caps.

View attachment 140558

View attachment 140559

I recently bought AR330480 shock bodies (for a Kraton V4), because I managed to break one with a bad jump and I simply cannot fit the 3075 shock cap, which is meant for a V4 shock body; it looks EXACTLY like in your picture, where the thread is scraped at the top and bottom.

 

[Harriot10]

I recently bought AR330480 shock bodies (for a Kraton V4), because I managed to break one with a bad jump and I simply cannot fit the 3075 shock cap, which is meant for a V4 shock body; it looks EXACTLY like in your picture, where the thread is scraped at the top and bottom.

I was the one that contacted Mitch about this issue originally! From what I understand now, the 3075 caps only fit V4 and previous versions. The 3480 caps fit the V5/EXB. I would give Mitch a call, nice guy and very helpful! He got me straight!

 

[Surchaufeur]

I bought 2 sets of arrma shock caps for very old arrma shocks. Could that cause issues if you buy replacement original caps for v3-4 shocks? Or it was only an m2c problem?

 

[SrC]

I can't say that if you stay with a Bladder setup ( as stock) along with upgrade "Bleed Screw caps", that there will be any noticeable gain in plushness. That's where proper shock/springs, piston choice/ bottom cartridge and proper oil bleeding and air bleeding prior to assembly matters most. If setting up an "Emulsion" shock then the ZRS and other equivalent type caps have a distinct advantage. I like the stocker alloy caps. And have done one emulsion setup with these stocker caps. It can work with some patience. Stocker caps never cracked/ leaked or broke for me.

I bought 2 sets of arrma shock caps for very old arrma shocks. Could that cause issues if you buy replacement original caps for v3-4 shocks? Or it was only an m2c problem?

Only an M2C issue from what I see and here. I never pulled the plug on the ZRS shock caps myself. Stockers are fine for me. And never failed to date.
I feel for bashing, that Bladder type shocks are just fine, and require little maintenance. Emulsion setups always need attention, or they all become unmatched as pairs at some point. But they are more plush for the most parts. Hence why many use them on Track rigs for the most part. Racers usually rebuild their shocks very often. And when they fly to events with their shocks on a Plane, the change in cabin pressure with traveling requires Emulsion shocks to be rebuilt/ bled again once at the Race event. Emulsion shocks can be finicky because they are a mix of Oil and Air. And just one shock changes easily. Bladder shocks stay more consistent/matched over the long haul.
Running TLRT bottom cartridge sets and TLRT pistons in any 6s Arrma shock will take it to the next level in plushness while remaining a Bladder setup.
Food for thought.

Edited.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I can't say that if you stay with a Bladder setup ( as stock) along with upgrade "Bleed Screw caps", that there will be any noticeable gain in plushness. That's where proper shock/springs, piston choice/ bottom cartridge and proper oil bleeding and air bleeding prior to assembly matters most. If setting up an "Emulsion" shock then the ZRS and other equivalent type caps have a distinct advantage. I like the stocker alloy caps. And have done one emulsion setup with these stocker caps. It can work with some patience. Stocker caps never cracked/ leaked or broke for me.

Only an M2C issue from what I see and here. I never pulled the plug on the ZRS shock caps myself. Stockers are fine for me. And never failed to date.
I feel for bashing, that Bladder type shocks are just fine, and require little maintenance. Emulsion setups always need attention, or they all become unmatched as pairs at some point. But they are more plush for the most parts. Hence why many use them on Track rigs for the most part. Racers usually rebuild their shocks very often. And when they fly to events with their shocks on a Plane, the change in cabin pressure with traveling requires Emulsion shocks to be rebuilt/ bled again once at the Race event. Emulsion shocks can be finicky because they are a mix of Oil and Air. And just one shock changes easily. Bladder shocks stay more consistent/matched over the long haul.
Running TLRT bottom cartridge sets and TLRT pistons in any 6s Arrma shock will take it to the next level in plushness while remaining a Bladder setup.
Food for thought.

Edited.

Do you have to change anything for the tlr pistons?

 

[SrC]

No, the TLR Typhon Pistons can be a drop in by themselves They are tapered on one side. I put tapered side facing down for better better rebound control. But honestly, you want the whole TLRT bottom cartridge set ( with X-rings) as well. Only then you will see the best improvement.
They are all precisely machined Delrin parts and thus costly. But this makes the shocks plush versus the stocker Molded plastic parts. The X-rings are also key to plushness. Just need to buy the "complete" TLRT shock set parts. The TLRT X-rings are not compatible with the Stocker plastic bottom cartridge set that runs standard O-rings.