M2C Typhon motor mount.

[Walküre]

I picked up a new V4 motor mount for my Typhon and wasn’t impressed. It’s claim is that it makes for easy maintenance. I couldn’t get my center diff in without a fight. I ended up getting a M2C KRATON motor mount. These things are nice. The cut for the bearings is lower than the factory setup.

I kept binding on the dog bones when putting it back together with the factory v4 mount. I stripped the plastic front piece on a landing too. Yes, I’ll be selling the factory V4 motor mount if someone wants it...

 

[Primarrma]

I picked up a new V4 motor mount for my Typhon and wasn’t impressed. It’s claim is that it makes for easy maintenance. I couldn’t get my center diff in without a fight. I ended up getting a M2C KRATON motor mount. These things are nice. The cut for the bearings is lower than the factory setup. I kept binding on the dog bones when putting it back together. I stripped the plastic front piece on a landing too. Yes, I’ll be selling the factory V4 motor mount if someone wants it...View attachment 37058

So what are you saying, the m2c is no good? I just got one for my Kraton rebuild, I had hoped that they were excellent.

 

[GMballistic]

So what are you saying, the m2c is no good? I just got one for my Kraton rebuild, I had hoped that they were excellent.

It is a bit confusing to read the way it's laid out I agree.

I think what @Walküre is saying is that the V4 Arrma motor mount is no good and that the M2C one is good. If I've made sense of it.

 

[swampguts]

I picked up a new V4 motor mount for my Typhon and wasn’t impressed. It’s claim is that it makes for easy maintenance. I couldn’t get my center diff in without a fight. I ended up getting a M2C KRATON motor mount. These things are nice. The cut for the bearings is lower than the factory setup. I kept binding on the dog bones when putting it back together. I stripped the plastic front piece on a landing too. Yes, I’ll be selling the factory V4 motor mount if someone wants it...View attachment 37058

I had trouble loading the diff in the V4 mount as well. And the plastic bearing support is so flimsy. The next time it annoys me even slightly I'm going M2C.

 

[Primarrma]

It is a bit confusing to read the way it's laid out I agree.

I think what @Walküre is saying is that the V4 Arrma motor mount is no good and that the M2C one is good. If I've made sense of it.

Did he strip the m2c or the Arrma one? It caused binding on his dogbone?

 

[GMballistic]

Did he strip the m2c or the Arrma one? It caused binding on his dogbone?

That part isn't clear at all. ?

Hopefully he'll be back at some point soon to help us make sense of what's going on.

 

[swampguts]

Did he strip the m2c or the Arrma one? It caused binding on his dogbone?

I don't know about him, but my Voltage servo mount prevented my front dogbone from achieving the angle necessary to place it in the diff outdrive cup simultaneously with the rear drive bone to slot it in the mount. Much wrangling ensued.

 

[Walküre]

So what are you saying, the m2c is no good? I just got one for my Kraton rebuild, I had hoped that they were excellent.

The new factory red V4 slider is a pita on the Typhon. The center shafts are to short to make pulling and inserting easy. The M2C is a huge improvement. It is cut lower and has duralumin upper half. M2c makes a better product. There is a screw on the bottom half of the slider to get rid of movement in the assembly.

It is a bit confusing to read the way it's laid out I agree.

I think what @Walküre is saying is that the V4 Arrma motor mount is no good and that the M2C one is good. If I've made sense of it.

Sorry. I fixed it. It was confusing.

Did he strip the m2c or the Arrma one? It caused binding on his dogbone?

Plastic v4 diff mount. The M2c is aluminum.

 

[cootertwo]

You can get an old style motor mount from Jennys, $8, and cut it down, to replace the plastic bearing support. But you're still stuck with the plastic top piece. I can't see the price of the aluminum one from HR.

 

[Primarrma]

You can get an old style motor mount from Jennys, $8, and cut it down, to replace the plastic bearing support. But you're still stuck with the plastic top piece. I can't see the price of the aluminum one from HR.

I can't understand how to do this? I've tried to do it on my cars and when I tighten it all up it started binding. The holes didn't seem to position the diff in the same place as the plastic diff mount on the v3?

 

[PowerDubs]

The M2c mount is fantastic

 

[Primarrma]

The M2c mount is fantastic

That's great to read, I have a lot of work to do on my Kraton "Phoenix" build, out of the ashes I'm calling it, the state of my car is so bad going to be like a rebirth. I've got a new chassis and a few other m2c parts including the motor/ diff mount for it.

 

[Mr.Duke]

I can't understand how to do this? I've tried to do it on my cars and when I tighten it all up it started binding. The holes didn't seem to position the diff in the same place as the plastic diff mount on the v3?

I've tried it as well with the same results. Like you said, it appears that the mounting holes are off compared to the stock plastic piece, putting the diff in a bind when you go to tighten everything down. I ended up tossing it to the side and ordering the metal HR mount instead

 

[Jimbobjr]

If you have more beef in the chassis, braces servo mount etc. the diff mount will not just slide out with either one.

 

[PowerDubs]

If you have more beef in the chassis, braces servo mount etc. the diff mount will not just slide out with either one.

Huh? I have the M2c chassis, Voltage braces, aluminum servo mount, M2c motor mount....and my diff lifts right out with 4 screws. Motor is out w/ 3 screws...

 

[Jimbobjr]

I have to remove the one screw for the front brace on the kraton to get it out of the way. maybe its just my braces but I would assume any wider braces will get in the way. Anyway its not a big deal to figure out and far easier then the old mount...

 

[PowerDubs]

Not sure what you are trying to show in the picture?

You mentioned the front brace but show the rear?

I don’t need to touch any of my braces - when I remove the screws for the motor it slides away from the braces outward. The center diff just lifts straight out upwards.

 

[cootertwo]

Go to 6:12 I don't know why he says it's different, as it's the same thing both ends, "a motor mount" They are exactly the same size. I've done it, it works, and a lot cheaper than the HR part.

 

[Jimbobjr]

Powerdubs. Sorry I ment mine hit the rear when I pull it out...front there is plenty of room with the brace but gets a little snug against the servo mount.

 

[Walküre]

I’m loving this M2C motor mount. Great design. I still need to pull the front through bolt on the wing mount so the rear brace can be moved a bit to clear the rear shaft when pulling the diff but still a night and day differance. The added screw on the bottom of the slider is a nice touch. I’m happy knowing I’m not screwing into plastic on the front diff mount too. I highly recommend it.