Outcast Main input gear

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Raji

Active Member
Messages
334
Reaction score
300
Arrma RC's
Should I put a shim behind (MAIN INPUT GEAR 10T SPIRAL #AR310498)?
I cant find answer any where!
 
I did, there was a good amount of play between the input gear and the ring gear in both of my diff cases. This was also where I have broken teeth, on the ring gear and not in the internal diff gears. I used 3 shims in the rear, haven't done the front yet, have yet to test it out but will post a review if it works out. Part is team associated 21141.
 
I did, there was a good amount of play between the input gear and the ring gear in both of my diff cases. This was also where I have broken teeth, on the ring gear and not in the internal diff gears. I used 3 shims in the rear, haven't done the front yet, have yet to test it out but will post a review if it works out. Part is team associated 21141.

I lost one teeth in main input gear. So that why I asked. Also, it have a little movement. So that's why I thought it might be helpful.
 
It seems like a good idea, I found some mention on this forum and FB but not many people seem to do it. If it ends up being beneficial I'll post more details with pics.
 
This time I striped the front main input gear!!
What do you guys think is the reason?
Is it something happen often with you guys?

Thanks in advance
 
2:1 left to right mine is 3:1 and I used the same size shims that I used on my bearing shim as the shim for my main input works fine I used 2 of them to take out the play in the input shaft.
You put the 2 shims from inside behind the main input gear?
 
I put 1 on the inside behind the input then 1 on the outside of the cup to eat up any play that was left in the main input shaft. I'e never lost a tooth and I'm running 3:1 on the bearing to keep the 43t in good contact with the 10t input gear.
 
I put 1 on the inside behind the input then 1 on the outside of the cup to eat up any play that was left in the main input shaft. I'e never lost a tooth and I'm running 3:1 on the bearing to keep the 43t in good contact with the 10t input gear.

Nice I'm going to try it soon
Thanks
 
IMG_20180328_104226.jpg IMG_20180328_104202.jpg IMG_20180328_104219.jpg

Even the new rear one looks striped
@Iamtheoutcast
What shims did you use?
 
View attachment 17261 View attachment 17262 View attachment 17263

Even the new rear one looks striped
@Iamtheoutcast
What shims did you use?

I think everyone is confused about which gear you're asking about. MY assumption is you're asking what shim to put behind the 10t input gear right? I used a 5x8x.1mm shim behind the 10t input because it was not lining up with the 43t spiral gear fully. I also think part of the reason that these input gears are shearing is due to the diff housings losing their shape causing the input gear to not correctly align with the ring gear.

Testing the same bearings and diff/input gear in 3 different diff housings and all three were completely different in terms of smoothness and alignment. I just bought a new V3 diff housing and found that adding the 13x16x.1 bearing shim makes it too tight and notchy and I'm not noticing the diff moving around at all. So I'm not going to use that bearing shim. I am going to use the 5x8x.1mm shim behind the input gear though to ensure that there is as much of that gear coming into contact with the ring gear as possible.
 
I think everyone is confused about which gear you're asking about. MY assumption is you're asking what shim to put behind the 10t input gear right? I used a 5x8x.1mm shim behind the 10t input because it was not lining up with the 43t spiral gear fully. I also think part of the reason that these input gears are shearing is due to the diff housings losing their shape causing the input gear to not correctly align with the ring gear.

Testing the same bearings and diff/input gear in 3 different diff housings and all three were completely different in terms of smoothness and alignment. I just bought a new V3 diff housing and found that adding the 13x16x.1 bearing shim makes it too tight and notchy and I'm not noticing the diff moving around at all. So I'm not going to use that bearing shim. I am going to use the 5x8x.1mm shim behind the input gear though to ensure that there is as much of that gear coming into contact with the ring gear as possible.


Deff knew what gear was being talked about but that is what this forum is for do what works for u here is my 43t before the shims I suggested
20180220_202900.jpg
20180220_202900.jpg
going 2 months strong no issues
 
I think everyone is confused about which gear you're asking about. MY assumption is you're asking what shim to put behind the 10t input gear right? I used a 5x8x.1mm shim behind the 10t input because it was not lining up with the 43t spiral gear fully. I also think part of the reason that these input gears are shearing is due to the diff housings losing their shape causing the input gear to not correctly align with the ring gear.

Testing the same bearings and diff/input gear in 3 different diff housings and all three were completely different in terms of smoothness and alignment. I just bought a new V3 diff housing and found that adding the 13x16x.1 bearing shim makes it too tight and notchy and I'm not noticing the diff moving around at all. So I'm not going to use that bearing shim. I am going to use the 5x8x.1mm shim behind the input gear though to ensure that there is as much of that gear coming into contact with the ring gear as possible.

Yes I mean the 10t input gear
For now I put the stock shim+2 tekno shims on one side of the bearings. It is tight, but after one battery pack it's became smother. I'm going to keep the shims for couple packs then check the gears hopefully everything will be good.
Thanks for replying and sharing
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top