Big Rock Making a stronger rear diff...broken again. What am I missing here?

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@BulletRCs_NZ @Edough13

Thx post sharing about your metal diff. I still have more runs and testing to do but had a chance this evening to get 2 full 3S 6200mah runs. You know when you get something new try to feel it out and not get caught on the high of having something new.

I ran it in my same spot on loose dirt and in past I did not get the dragster takeoff wheelie (not a full walking wheelie) so it was nice to see the front end lift a little. Hate wheelies in general but the gearing felt really good in the rear. It had rained 24hrs prior so the dirt was not dusty or extremely loose but was not wet either, so I need to see what it will do when it is bone dry.

I look forward to more bashing to keep testing. My hope since I have strengthened the rear diff that this does not transfer that energy to my plastic spur as the next weak point. I'm hoping the M2C motor plate adds stability to that area for the spur.

Thx fellas
Nice sounds like everything is doing great so far👍🏼 The spur will be more effected by the gear mesh, slipper adjustment, debris in the housing and motor bearings not so much the diff gears. Now if you put like 500k in them lol and basically locked the diffs then yes but also slipper would help take the stress, otherwise diffs shouldn't effect the spur at all.
 
Wish I could help I just went with the plastic yokes on my CNC Steel diff and haven't had any issues. I've removed the diff a couple of times to service it and it's in perfect condition still.

TBH most of my diff issues have disappeared in my other rigs now I'm seating in my diff bearing correctly. I did issue an issue with my front Senton diff yesterday but that was a exploded diff bearing, the crown and input gear were still usable.

Sorry not much help but I like talking about diffs.
How were you seating the bearing before and what is the correct way? Since I’ve only begun working on the differentials this last month, I want make sure I’m not missing something.
Thanks!
 
How were you seating the bearing before and what is the correct way? Since I’ve only begun working on the differentials this last month, I want make sure I’m not missing something.
Thanks!

He will have to answer that.....but my issue was not bearing as you saw. In the future, I need to make sure there is no oil in the cup or in the two bore holes so it seats down correctly. I did lift it out while oil was in the cup for the pins.
 
He will have to answer that.....but my issue was not bearing as you saw. In the future, I need to make sure there is no oil in the cup or in the two bore holes so it seats down correctly. I did lift it out while oil was in the cup for the pins.
Yup I make sure to be careful not not get oil in the screw holes or pin holes. I watched a few videos before working on my first diff and picked up on that.

I seem to be seating the bearings correct on the outside of the diff case as I’ve done several with fine results, but it’s always good to make sure.
 
Yup I make sure to be careful not not get oil in the screw holes or pin holes. I watched a few videos before working on my first diff and picked up on that.

I seem to be seating the bearings correct on the outside of the diff case as I’ve done several with fine results, but it’s always good to make sure.
You should be good on the outside bearings seeing that the yoke has to go over it and close it together to screw down. I addition the driveshafts will be added. I feel you good there. For those bearing make sure they are not seized check periodically
 
You should be good on the outside bearings seeing that the yoke has to go over it and close it together to screw down. I addition the driveshafts will be added. I feel you good there. For those bearing make sure they are not seized check periodically
Yeah I watched more videos and did a bit more research and I’m doing good. I just get nervous when doing something new. So far I’ve done 6 diffs and they are still holding well.

I need to pull my new typhons diffs…I have a slight ratchet or clicking noise that’s either the spur or diffs. I’ve worked on the spur and got the mesh pretty smooth so now will turn attention to the diffs. I think it’s the rear diff making noise so will pull it first. After confirming the diffs are good, think I’ll go 15k rear and 25-30k front.

I love this hobby and the challenges it brings me. So much to figure out and work on. 😊
 
I built mine with the Arrma metal ring and input gears, while building the diffs make sure they spins freely internally without any binding before putting it back together, I have noticed air bubbles gets trapped under the pin hole where yours broke as a result of the gear not aligned properly thus you get a “welded” diff. I have spent half an hour trying to get the air bubbles out and made sure everything spins freely, it gets more challenging when you use thicker oils if you got bubbles under the pins , and pushing the top plate down, the gears will get pushed upwards and locking the internal gears.that’s what I noticed anyways, and judging from your pictures, it may be a good chance of it happening.
 
@BulletRCs_NZ @Edough13

Thx post sharing about your metal diff. I still have more runs and testing to do but had a chance this evening to get 2 full 3S 6200mah runs. You know when you get something new try to feel it out and not get caught on the high of having something new.

I ran it in my same spot on loose dirt and in past I did not get the dragster takeoff wheelie (not a full walking wheelie) so it was nice to see the front end lift a little. Hate wheelies in general but the gearing felt really good in the rear. It had rained 24hrs prior so the dirt was not dusty or extremely loose but was not wet either, so I need to see what it will do when it is bone dry.

I look forward to more bashing to keep testing. My hope since I have strengthened the rear diff that this does not transfer that energy to my plastic spur as the next weak point. I'm hoping the M2C motor plate adds stability to that area for the spur.

Thx fellas
I switch ed to all steel the spiral gears smooth as butter seems in getting longer run times but have not timed it yet
 
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