Manne´s Nero Bash "build" thread.

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Manne

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Hello everyone! Bought myself a Nero (non edc version) a while ago to replace my E-revo brushless edition. Have been into rc for many years and done many builds with alot of custom parts and mods. Google "manne´s bash build" and you should be able to find the Flux, E-revo, mini e-revo threads amongst others. The Nero will be dedicated to bashing and bashing only.

This won´t be much of a build thread since the Nero actually already is assembled, but I intend to post all my modifications to it here.

This is whats been done so far:

Stripped the whole truck down and changed every screw from button head to cap head screws.
Changed to 300000cps/cst differential oil in the centerdifferential.
Changed to 30000cps/cst in the front and rear differential.
Changed to thinner shock fluid 650cps/cst (Associated 50wt shock fluid).
Installed beefier rockerposts article number: Traxxas 5354.

Removed the stupid clips between the a-arms and the pillowballs and installed steel shims instead for a more rigid support in the a-arm.

Re soldered the cables on the esc connectors that goes to the motor in a 90degree angle to make sure they won´t hit the rollbar on those big upside down landings.

Installed 2.5mm screws with permanent thread locker in the holes in the diffcups to be able to use differential oil. They fit perfectly without tapping. I used number: Traxxas 3215 screws. They work perfect to lock the diff too if you screw them all the way down, or just leave them with a few turns left and use them as "plugs".
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(Picture borrowed from my bash buddy, i´m a black dude),
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Installed longer screws with nuts on the bulkheads to prevent them from stripping and breaking the bulkhead/chassis.
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Installed Savage flux wheeliebar number: Hpi 85245.
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Installed the Leopard 4082 motor i had laying around (it fits without any modifications),with a motor heatsink with fan on (fits under the rear shock mounts without any mods at all).
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Installed Traxxas 5145 locking pins for the driveshafts (much better steel then the original ones).
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Put shims on the pushrods for increased rideheight and superglued the rodends on them to prevent the threads from stripping.
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Cut the skidplates for maximum travel and to prevent snow/pebbles from getting stuck in between the skid and the a-arms thus drastically decreasing the rideheight.
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Drilled holes to use a bodyclip to prevent the batterydoors from popping open.
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Moved the cap bank and secured it so it isn´t slapping around like the stock setup.
Installed three ballons on the on/of switch (I´ve had the same brands esc get moist in the switch before).
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Thats´s everything so far:).

I have bought some stuff to install Traxxas extra thick rodends part: Traxxas 5348 as shock ends on all four shocks. I have also bought the super thick ends and two different sized balls from the Arrma kraton/talion/typhon series, number: AR330230, AR330202 and AR310450. These will replace all ends on the whole truck. I will be installing those on the next update here.
e.jpg

Also ordered HD shafts, a 30kg 0.13sec servo, and a new Leopard 4282 V2 motor (like the one Thomas P uses in his Large scale Nero project) amongst with almost a whole truck in parts as spares.

I also had the idea like Thomas P to make longer tvp´s to install a Leopard 5482 or longer motor instead of the tiny 4274 that is in there stock due to heat issues, but since a 4282 fits with a fan I will leave it like this i think. I´m no fan of a long wheelbase, I love wheelies at 60mph, standing and rolling backflips and going huge in the gravelpits, which this truck will be dedicated to:woot::shame:.

Now go out and keep enjoing the hobby of rc everyone!
 

Cr3pitus

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Nice! I especially like the find of the perfect screws for the diff. I might do that too seal it up, keep it unlocked, but loose less power out the front in blast mode
 
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Manne

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Thanks alot fellas! Yes, the screws fits like arrma meant them to sit there :D. I have ran 60+ charges now and all the oil is still there! I really like the truck so far. So much more quality than the E-revo.
 

Thomas P

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Awsm Manne..one Q..did you also cut the downstop for the upper arm?. The lower and uoper stops the arma at the same time
 
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Manne

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Thanks! Actually the main reason i cut the skid was because snow kept clogging in between making the truck very low. The ride height was good enough with uncut skids and shims on the pushrods. But to answer your question, no I only cut the lower one, and you know what, they actually don't bottom out at the same time. I can fit my wrench between the bulkhead and the upper a-arm when it bottoms out in the lower skid/lower a-arm area :), and that is with my cut skids, it's even more significant with uncut skids:
K.jpg
 

Bic1090

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Liking the build man. One thing I will say is that the traxxas grub screws that go into the plastic outer portion of the axle made my axle ring pull up. I think the traxxas ones I have are a thicker thread. Maybe I got the wrong ones? I ended up ordering 2 sets of nero ones so who knows.
 
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Manne

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Liking the build man. One thing I will say is that the traxxas grub screws that go into the plastic outer portion of the axle made my axle ring pull up. I think the traxxas ones I have are a thicker thread. Maybe I got the wrong ones? I ended up ordering 2 sets of nero ones so who knows.
What napalm said:happy:. They have exactly the same thread, but much better material. Higly recommended.
 

Thomas P

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Gonna do this mod ASA i arrive home on the XL. AWSM Manne..actually same issiue on the Kraton etc..but to achive more out travel..yeeeessssss
 

Thomas P

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Been thinking of this mod since day one..and THANK you Manne!!..did it today, gaind little more out travel and no more crap in there

20161219_213116_zpslxfptfxc.jpg
 

Bic1090

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If the ring is pulling up, you are screwing them in too far. Back them out a bit.
So I believe that I have the shorter Traxxas axle screw pin, which explains my dilemma. Looks like I'll be buying a couple sets of the 5145. Thanks!
 

72Z15SS

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Good stuff Manne! I'll be watching this thread...
 

ark1t3kt

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Great write-up Manne. I got the brainless Nero from Tower this week for a great price and I'm using your guide to beef it up. I never thought I would be using Traxxas parts for that LOL.
 
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Thanks for the Great write up, I ordered traxxas 3215 screws which are m2.5x6mm are too long to be screwed all the down to seal diff a little shorter would be great gonna try to find another option and post up here what I find.
 

Bigjoe

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Thanks for the Great write up, I ordered traxxas 3215 screws which are m2.5x6mm are too long to be screwed all the down to seal diff a little shorter would be great gonna try to find another option and post up here what I find.

A little crude but you could snip off a couple mm's with a pair of dykes. Might just need a little dressing with a file. It will get you up and running right away.
 
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A little crude but you could snip off a couple mm's with a pair of dykes. Might just need a little dressing with a file. It will get you up and running right away.
I ended up snipping the m2.5x6mm down to 3mm length, sealed up nice and filled center with 500k diff fluid. Thanks
 

ark1t3kt

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Did you have to tap the hole for the Traxxas rocker posts since they are larger than stock (M3 vs M4)? Or did you just screw them in and widen the hole that way? Thanks!
 

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