Stanleybb50
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- Arrma RC's
- Senton 6s
Great thread! I'm gonna follow this for sure.
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Did you have to tap the hole for the Traxxas rocker posts since they are larger than stock (M3 vs M4)? Or did you just screw them in and widen the hole that way? Thanks!
Hello everyone! Bought myself a Nero (non edc version) a while ago to replace my E-revo brushless edition. Have been into rc for many years and done many builds with alot of custom parts and mods. Google "manne´s bash build" and you should be able to find the Flux, E-revo, mini e-revo threads amongst others. The Nero will be dedicated to bashing and bashing only.
This won´t be much of a build thread since the Nero actually already is assembled, but I intend to post all my modifications to it here.
This is whats been done so far:
Stripped the whole truck down and changed every screw from button head to cap head screws.
Changed to 300000cps/cst differential oil in the centerdifferential.
Changed to 30000cps/cst in the front and rear differential.
Changed to thinner shock fluid 650cps/cst (Associated 50wt shock fluid).
Installed beefier rockerposts article number: Traxxas 5354.
Removed the stupid clips between the a-arms and the pillowballs and installed steel shims instead for a more rigid support in the a-arm.
Re soldered the cables on the esc connectors that goes to the motor in a 90degree angle to make sure they won´t hit the rollbar on those big upside down landings.
Installed 2.5mm screws with permanent thread locker in the holes in the diffcups to be able to use differential oil. They fit perfectly without tapping. I used number: Traxxas 3215 screws. They work perfect to lock the diff too if you screw them all the way down, or just leave them with a few turns left and use them as "plugs".
View attachment 7701
(Picture borrowed from my bash buddy, i´m a black dude),
View attachment 7702
Installed longer screws with nuts on the bulkheads to prevent them from stripping and breaking the bulkhead/chassis.
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Installed Savage flux wheeliebar number: Hpi 85245.
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Installed the Leopard 4082 motor i had laying around (it fits without any modifications),with a motor heatsink with fan on (fits under the rear shock mounts without any mods at all).
View attachment 7706
Installed Traxxas 5145 locking pins for the driveshafts (much better steel then the original ones).
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Put shims on the pushrods for increased rideheight and superglued the rodends on them to prevent the threads from stripping.
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Cut the skidplates for maximum travel and to prevent snow/pebbles from getting stuck in between the skid and the a-arms thus drastically decreasing the rideheight.
View attachment 7709
Drilled holes to use a bodyclip to prevent the batterydoors from popping open.
View attachment 7710
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Moved the cap bank and secured it so it isn´t slapping around like the stock setup.
Installed three ballons on the on/of switch (I´ve had the same brands esc get moist in the switch before).
View attachment 7712
Thats´s everything so far.
I have bought some stuff to install Traxxas extra thick rodends part: Traxxas 5348 as shock ends on all four shocks. I have also bought the super thick ends and two different sized balls from the Arrma kraton/talion/typhon series, number: AR330230, AR330202 and AR310450. These will replace all ends on the whole truck. I will be installing those on the next update here.
View attachment 7713
Also ordered HD shafts, a 30kg 0.13sec servo, and a new Leopard 4282 V2 motor (like the one Thomas P uses in his Large scale Nero project) amongst with almost a whole truck in parts as spares.
I also had the idea like Thomas P to make longer tvp´s to install a Leopard 5482 or longer motor instead of the tiny 4274 that is in there stock due to heat issues, but since a 4282 fits with a fan I will leave it like this i think. I´m no fan of a long wheelbase, I love wheelies at 60mph, standing and rolling backflips and going huge in the gravelpits, which this truck will be dedicated to.
Now go out and keep enjoing the hobby of rc everyone!
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